Stock wheels on lifted trucks!

aware3218 · October 30, 2017

CST 4.5 inch bracket lift with GMC Wheels and 305/55/20 Toyo AT II.

RigPig · November 6, 2017

Hi, guys.

New member here, but just wanted to give some info on leveling and tire size that will rub, or not rub if you have the stamped steel control arms.

Sorry if this has been covered in the thread previously, but up until a few weeks ago, I couldn't find a definitive answer on the net concerning this.

It seemed that some people said their setup would rub and others said it wouldn't, but it was unclear if they meant it wouldn't rub after they modified the inner fender, etc.

So, I'm here to let you know definitively my story, my setup and confirm that if the same parts that I used are purchased, there will be no rubbing on a 1500 Sierra 4x4 with stamped steel control arms.

So, here goes my story:

About a month ago, I bought a new 2018 All Terrain, with the intention of leveling and adding the largest M/T tire that would fit without issues.

I poured a lot of time into researching the subject on forum after forum, prior to my purchase and decided that the Rough Country 2.5 in lift (with the rear blocks) would work for me.

This kit appealed to me because of the ease of installation (I thought) and the fact that I'd be doing it alone in my garage.

Next I decided that the 285/55r20 maximum tire size (according to RC) was not enough larger than the OEM size for my taste, so I began to research that topic.

This is where the water got muddy with what will work and what won't work without the tire rubbing the stamped UCA's.

I ended up ordering a set of 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country M/T's for a smoking price of 1360 bucks, a set of 1/4 inch spacers and the lift on the same day.

The tires arrived first and my initial thought was how wide they looked.

I put them aside and waited for my lift.

The lift came in a few days later and the first thing I noted was that there was no top spacer blocks, just a couple of donut rings.

I quickly found out that RC fails to tell you, if you have the stamped control arms, you must remove the struts, compress the strut spring, disassemble the strut and install the donut spacer under the spring, then reassemble.

So, it was off to Auto Zone for their loaner spring compressor.

I'll just say that it worked, but the stress that the strut spring put that tool under was unbelievable and I wouldn't do that job at home again.

The threaded rods looked like bananas once the spring was compressed enough to reassemble with the spacer.

The rear blocks went in pretty easily except that the head of the spring bolt had some difficulty going into the RC rear blocks. Not sure if it was the paint on the blocks, but I eventually had to lower the truck's weight onto the blocks so that the head of the bolt would pop into the block.

Next I installed the 1/4" spacers on all four corners and checked clearance.

I found the stock tires almost touching the UCA's at full lock after the lift and spacers were installed.

So I did some measuring and figured 1-1/4" spacers would do the job and the excess length on the factory studs sticking out past the spacer would fit inside the OEM wheel pockets. No need to shave the studs.

I decided after more research that Bora had the best reviews and it's only money, so I dumped another 250 bucks into the project. What else can you do at this point?

While I was waiting for my spacers to be built and shipped, I had my tires installed. Not by Walmart I might add, because they won't install tires more than 2% larger than OEM specs for your vehicle. What a bunch of pricks.

Last Saturday afternoon, my spacers arrived and I went to work right away, installing the spacers.

They fit perfectly and are both hubcebtric and wheelcentric.

The result was that the tires are nowhere close to touching the UCA's - at least and inch away at full lock, but only about 1/16" from touching the felt liner at the rear of the tire on the right side while turning right and the left side when turning left.

I ended up drilling a 3/16 hole in the bottom lip of each liner and using zip ties to secure them back to the body mount.

Now there is enough room to clear easily, no rubbing, no cutting, no stud shaving or NorCal mod needed and it's totally undetectable.

So to recap, if you have stamped steel control arms, you can run without a doubt, a RC 2.5" level/lift (plan on removing and disassembling the struts), 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country M/T's on OEM 20" wheels with no rubbing, but you have to install spacers (no less than 1-1/4" unless you want to cut the factory studs) and tie back the rear inner fender felt.

Sorry for such a long story, but this whole process has taken a month to finish up and there's a lot to tell. I'm picking my truck up today from the alignment shop, who said that the front end was completely out of whack after the level kit, so an alignment is definitely needed ASAP after you level.

A few pics of the final result taken after the spacers were installed. Sorry for the crappy pictures, but it was dark outside and just took these to send to my son.

I can take a few more in daylight hours if anyone is interested in how the end result looks.

Edited November 6, 2017 by RigPig

RigPig · November 6, 2017

A few more if interested.

One other thing - If you install the RC lift with the stamped UCA's, your truck will ride stiffer up front due to the preload the spacer puts on the spring.

It doesn't really bother me, but it might bother some.

Edited November 6, 2017 by RigPig
Added comment

Coles5515 · November 7, 2017

4 hours ago, RigPig said:

A few more if interested.

One other thing - If you install the RC lift with the stamped UCA's, your truck will ride stiffer up front due to the preload the spacer puts on the spring.

It doesn't really bother me, but it might bother some.

Nice write up! Have any full side shots?

AgDoctor · November 7, 2017

CST 4.5 inch bracket lift with GMC Wheels and 305/55/20 Toyo AT II.

Looks awesome! How does it ride.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AgDoctor · November 7, 2017

CST 4.5 inch bracket lift with GMC Wheels and 305/55/20 Toyo AT II.

A few more pics would be appreciated and some additional details.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RigPig · November 7, 2017

2 hours ago, Coles5515 said:

Nice write up! Have any full side shots?

I don't, but I'll post some tomorrow.

RigPig · November 7, 2017

19 hours ago, RigPig said:

I don't, but I'll post some tomorrow.

Side shot

Coles5515 · November 7, 2017

30 minutes ago, RigPig said:

Side shot

Looks great!

RigPig · November 8, 2017

13 hours ago, Coles5515 said:

Looks great!

Thanks, man. Next on the agenda is clear film on the rocker panels and a tonneau cover.

After that, I'm calling it a day..............for now

bcbz71 · November 9, 2017

On 10/30/2017 at 10:14 AM, aware3218 said:

CST 4.5 inch bracket lift with GMC Wheels and 305/55/20 Toyo AT II.

You done that right, son! Looks perfect. More pictures and details of the lift, install, spacers, etc...

bcbz71 · November 9, 2017

12 hours ago, RigPig said:

Thanks, man. Next on the agenda is clear film on the rocker panels and a tonneau cover.

After that, I'm calling it a day..............for now

Great informative post! Good to know that 1.25 spacers work as everything else I have read says 1.75 if no pockets, 1.5 with pockets.

aware3218 · November 9, 2017

48 minutes ago, bcbz71 said:

You done that right, son! Looks perfect. More pictures and details of the lift, install, spacers, etc...

I’m afraid there isn’t too much to add, I chose this lift because I wanted to avoid increasing the track width and I really wanted to use stock wheels. One word of warning, I bought 33’s to go with the lift but I should have done 34’s at minimum.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited November 9, 2017 by aware3218
Stupid iOS 11 "I" bug.