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Posted

So I finally bought myself a 2010 silverado.. looked at half a dozen others and the wheel wells were the first thing I checked. Finally I got one without any rust at all.Any suggestions on preventing rust in the future? I was thinking rocker guard the insides but I think it could still rust from the layers where it normally does. Let me know!

Thanks,

Posted

The bed is two pieces on these, and where they meet there is V shape above the wheel well in the sheet metal that is created. Salt and dirt collect here, stay moist, and rust the metal. There are three washout plugs on the upper backside of the rear fender just above the upper lip. Pull them out and flush with lots of high pressure water a couple times a year, especially in the spring. If you have rear wheel well liners (i.e. rust collectors) remove them and throw them away and then you can get at these plugs, otherwise they will be hidden. there are also a bunch of these plugs on the backside of the rocker panels, for your flushing convenience. Do this and the sheet metal will last twice as long, I do.

  • Like 2
Posted

The bed is two pieces on these, and where they meet there is V shape above the wheel well in the sheet metal that is created. Salt and dirt collect here, stay moist, and rust the metal. There are three washout plugs on the upper backside of the rear fender just above the upper lip. Pull them out and flush with lots of high pressure water a couple times a year, especially in the spring. If you have rear wheel well liners (i.e. rust collectors) remove them and throw them away and then you can get at these plugs, otherwise they will be hidden. there are also a bunch of these plugs on the backside of the rocker panels, for your flushing convenience. Do this and the sheet metal will last twice as long, I do.

We did this on the 04, then sprayed Krown rust prevrnter in until it poured out. Never had an issue with rust, plan on doing the same with the 11.

  • Like 1
Posted

The bed is two pieces on these, and where they meet there is V shape above the wheel well in the sheet metal that is created. Salt and dirt collect here, stay moist, and rust the metal. There are three washout plugs on the upper backside of the rear fender just above the upper lip. Pull them out and flush with lots of high pressure water a couple times a year, especially in the spring. If you have rear wheel well liners (i.e. rust collectors) remove them and throw them away and then you can get at these plugs, otherwise they will be hidden. there are also a bunch of these plugs on the backside of the rocker panels, for your flushing convenience. Do this and the sheet metal will last twice as long, I do.

This is the very first I have heard of this, I crap you not. I'm going to start cleaning out these things on a regular basis. I had no idea the plugs were there.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Its easier to unbolt the taillights and move them out of the way

(because you can clearly see the space between the fender and

liners) and blast the crud outta there !

Edited by sonjaab
  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah rust doesn't happen in the winter... It happens in the summer as the salt absorbs moisture and sits wet on the metal.

Posted

This is a product that has been used by many people on various boards with success:

 

http://www.por15.com/

While an excellent product, its made to go directly on rusty or rough metal, and will not stick to paint. putting it on paint is a waste of time and money.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

I purchased a 2013 Chevy Silverado in November 2018 and there was no sign and rust anywhere. I wash my truck a couple times a week and spray out my fender wells and under the trucks as well and just noticed there was a rust hole starting & paint bubbling around the fender wells. I read about the plugs in the fender wells in the previous post so I pulled them and found mud & rust packed in between the fender well and fender of my truck. This is a terrible design and will end up costing me a lot of money & time Im sure. Does anyone know if is there any recourse or warranty GM will honor.          

20190422_140417.jpg

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  • 3 months later...
Posted

Has anyone ever thought to fill the void with expanding foam so that dirt, salt, nor water can collect there? I think I'm going to try once I get it clean and stop the rust.

Posted

Pulled the plugs and tail lights on my 2013 when I bought it in February of this year.  Super low mile Saskatchewan truck and it was a nice surprise that although dirt had collected in between the skins there was no rust at all.  Blew it out with the pressure washer, let it dry and filled it with fluid film.  Now I will do that ritual twice a year with the truck.  I also did the doors and rockers on the cab in similar fashion.  

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Rtstepp06 said:

Has anyone ever thought to fill the void with expanding foam so that dirt, salt, nor water can collect there? I think I'm going to try once I get it clean and stop the rust.

Don't do this. It will absolutely, positively rust out even faster.

42 minutes ago, SierraHD17 said:

Pulled the plugs and tail lights on my 2013 when I bought it in February of this year.  Super low mile Saskatchewan truck and it was a nice surprise that although dirt had collected in between the skins there was no rust at all.  Blew it out with the pressure washer, let it dry and filled it with fluid film.  Now I will do that ritual twice a year with the truck.  I also did the doors and rockers on the cab in similar fashion.  

Exactly what I've been doing to mine. I will be redoing the FF sometime next month

Edited by carkhz316
Posted

Yep,no spray foam,open cell,sponge,so,as I watch my truck rust,all new riding mowers have a water port for cleaning the deck,would that be something to think about,hole drilled in spot on inner wheel well,hook up hose?

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Maybe I should start a new thread but i'm past the point of the OP on this.  I bought by truck used, not sure what the guy before me did.  I'm thinking of using Bushwhacker's flares.  Before I do that I was going to drill out all the spot welds and separate the upper liner from the fender, cut out bad metal on the fender and use POR or something similar.  Just try to make all repairs beneath the flare line.  Any advice/experience?

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