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Who makes the nicest catch can kit??

BBRU

By BBRU
in Engines & Drivetrain

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SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted

The RXP is a great setup too and not that they are into doing something for nothing, I’ll share this...I want to mount my can off the drivers side fender, under the braces. Couldn’t do it to my standards, I could have used the bracket that came with the kit but wanted something more. I contacted RXP and told them what I wanted and they told me to send them some information and they’d see if they could help me out. I sent them (don’t laugh) pictures of the “stock” bracket with some desired modifications. The first pic is where I want to mount it, the second and third are my makeshift “template” and the final pic is what they made for me...didn’t even charge me shipping! That is customer service at its best. RXP is my choice but UPR is excellent too with good customer service...can’t speak about Elite. The RXP came with OEM fittings and really sweet check valves. For the people who think this is gonna create a vacuum issue BASED ON HOW MY WRITTING IS TAKEN, PLEASE UNDERSTAND THAT THERE IS NO VACUUM ISSUES...to say it’s gonna make the oil cap harder to remove is completely off base. These are pretty simple systems, no matter what brand you use. About the only way to mess it up it to install the check valves in backwards...so the talk about vacuum issues posted below (a few posts after this one) and is miss-quoting (asnin changing words) is just wrong. 

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bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
Posted
On 2/1/2019 at 7:28 PM, SS502 said:

Okay, on my RXP (and I’m not saying it’s the best or that you have to have it or that they provide absolute protection from anything) dual can set up its hooked up like this. The dual port can (bigger one in picture) has a dirty side line in (center port on can) then two clean out ports, one goes to the clean in barb on the intake manifold, the other to the air plenum (you can tap and install a barb just in front of the throttle body or go to the intake port on the plenum on the passenger side) and that accounts for all three ports in the can...center for dirty in and the two outside ports are clean out. Now the small can, it takes the place of the older CSS that used to fit into the stock oil cap, actually replaced the stock oil cap. It then ran to the air plenum intake port on the drivers side. With the small can you tap off the valve cover bridge line, into the top of the small can, the side port on the small can is then routed to the same port the older CSS did on the air plenum port on the drivers side.

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This seems like a really nice setup.  Wonder if the other manufactures will go this route instead of the CSS in the oil fill cap?

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, bkesting said:

This seems like a really nice setup.  Wonder if the other manufactures will go this route instead of the CSS in the oil fill cap?

Thanks, as far as I know RXP is the only one CURRENTLY using this setup. Their customer service is great, see my post above, they made me a custom bracket!

stanz792 Enthusiast

stanz792

Posted
Posted

Hers an option too.  A UPR catch can in black and it comes with plug and play hoses.  Really clean setup IMO.

20190204_110401.jpg

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, stanz792 said:

Hers an option too.  A UPR catch can in black and it comes with plug and play hoses.  Really clean setup IMO.

20190204_110401.jpg

 

UPR is a good setup too, I use their valve cover bridge line with my RXP because I like the way the line looks and Joe hooked me up without up-selling me more stuff.

camcamaro1991 Enthusiast

camcamaro1991

Posted
Posted
On 2/1/2019 at 7:28 PM, SS502 said:

Okay, on my RXP (and I’m not saying it’s the best or that you have to have it or that they provide absolute protection from anything) dual can set up its hooked up like this. The dual port can (bigger one in picture) has a dirty side line in (center port on can) then two clean out ports, one goes to the clean in barb on the intake manifold, the other to the air plenum (you can tap and install a barb just in front of the throttle body or go to the intake port on the plenum on the passenger side) and that accounts for all three ports in the can...center for dirty in and the two outside ports are clean out. Now the small can, it takes the place of the older CSS that used to fit into the stock oil cap, actually replaced the stock oil cap. It then ran to the air plenum intake port on the drivers side. With the small can you tap off the valve cover bridge line, into the top of the small can, the side port on the small can is then routed to the same port the older CSS did on the air plenum port on the drivers side.

EABF3FB7-08A9-4C22-8B1B-8089F60CF524.jpeg

7CCD529C-BCC0-4F65-9557-E2B7A13E37FD.jpeg

The way you installed it causes vacuum issues, you shouldn't hook the valley and valve covers to the same can. They should be separate, it will create a vacuum on the oil system. example it will make removing the oil cap difficult. it also can suck seals inside out.

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, camcamaro1991 said:

The way you installed it causes vacuum issues, you shouldn't hook the valley and valve covers to the same can. They should be separate, it will create a vacuum on the oil system. 

I love it when someone goes in and edits their statements AFTER a reply has been posted! Kinda changes how the reply looks but anyway THERE IS NO VACUUM PROBLEM. The valve covers go through the little can are  you thinking my bridge line is the valley line? The bridge line goes from valve cover to valve cover, then tee fitting to small can. The valley dirty out/in go through the big can. See video:

 

http://teamrxp.com/p/instructions

camcamaro1991 Enthusiast

camcamaro1991

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, SS502 said:

you stated your going to the intake post throttle body barb, and intake air plenum, that will cause the issue. The valve covers go through the little can

nope I know exactly how you have it, you stated your going to the intake post throttle body barb, and intake air plenum pre throttle body, that will cause the issue.

 

how is the little can getting back to the air plenum on the pre-throttle body side?

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, camcamaro1991 said:

you stated your going to the intake post throttle body barb, and intake air plenum, that will cause the issue.

 

how is the little can getting back to the air plenum?

Well maybe I didn’t explain it properly, watch the video. The small can takes the bridge line (valve cover to valve cover) flow through a T fitting, into the small can inlet, out the small can outlet and into the air box plenum barb on the drivers side, right where the CSS line went on the other setup. There is no vacuum issues.

I love it when someone goes in and edits their statements AFTER a reply has been posted! Kinda changes how the reply looks but anyway THERE IS NO VACUUM PROBLEM

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted

I should probably get me a proof reader, it made sense in my head.

I love it when someone goes in and edits their statements AFTER a reply has been posted! Kinda changes how the reply looks but anyway THERE IS NO VACUUM PROBLEM

camcamaro1991 Enthusiast

camcamaro1991

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, SS502 said:

Well maybe I didn’t explain it properly, watch the video. The small can takes the bridge line (valve cover to valve cover) flow through a T fitting, into the small can inlet, out the small can outlet and into the air box plenum barb on the drivers side, right where the CSS line went on the other setup. There is no vacuum issues.

link to the video you made?

 

also I been doing some testing of my own, found that if you can place the catch can where there is some air flow to cool the can while driving you get much better results, the can is still extremely hot where you placed it as well as where I had mine. reducing the temp at the can will generate better results. 

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, camcamaro1991 said:

link to the video you make?

 

also I been doing some testing of my own, found that if you can place the catch can where there is some air flow to cool the can while driving you get much better results, the can is still extremely hot where you placed it as well as where I had mine. 

I love it when someone goes in and edits their statements AFTER a reply has been posted! Kinda changes how the reply looks but anyway THERE IS NO VACUUM PROBLEM. No I didn’t make the video, that’s from the website where RXP is sold. In the video he mounted to the brake booster area. Even hotter IMO. I thought about just behind the radiator (and still maybgo there) but I haven’t seen any negative results but I haven’t been driving the truck (had knee surgery) but if I need to I can move it. I will stick a magnetic thermometer to see how bad it really is...not sure there is the perfect spot, some want the heat to help dissipate the condensation.

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, camcamaro1991 said:

link to the video you made?

 

also I been doing some testing of my own, found that if you can place the catch can where there is some air flow to cool the can while driving you get much better results, the can is still extremely hot where you placed it as well as where I had mine. reducing the temp at the can will generate better results. 

Where exactly are you putting your can (pictures please) where it isn’t getting “extremely hot”? The common brake booster mounting place is much hotter than the fender, just behind the radiator, although there is some air flow, is much hotter than the fender. The spare battery tray/fender mount (and make sure you look at where the ACTUAL can is located, not the mounting bracket) provides ample room for ease of emptying and doesn’t get so hot you can’t touch it...the valve covers get hotter. This mounting area also makes it very easy to get to the oil dipstick. Anyone who knows how the catch can/PCV system works will also know the oil cap isn’t gonna be hard to remove ?. There is no way without pictures you can say it’s installed wrong, that’s an assumption based on your interpretation of written words. I may not have explained it correctly to your understanding but you should have just asked for pictures or clarification before you assume it’s installed wrong, which by the way would have most certainly kicked a CEL if your assessment was right, it hasn’t. No seals have been “sucked inside out”  and on that note, I bid you farewell. Show me your setup WITH pictures please so I will know the optimal spot to install a catch can.

3tspapat Enthusiast

3tspapat

Posted
Posted

That RXP can is HUGE! is it really HUGE or just looks like it? 

So you had to cut Joe's nice bridge line for his CSS sytem to put in a T to bring to the small RXP can? 

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, 3tspapat said:

That RXP can is HUGE! is it really HUGE or just looks like it? 

So you had to cut Joe's nice bridge line for his CSS sytem to put in a T to bring to the small RXP can? 

No I did not cut his hose YET. I want to make sure this is the setup I’m gonna stay with. I removed it all to wait on my new bracket. I am still having knee post surgery problems. I drive the Accord right now. Here is a pic of Joe’s nice hose still intact! The smaller hose is the cut one. But if I stick with this, I will cut and use his line, it’s a better looking line to me. I also got some AN-10 hose looms to make it all look clean when I get done.

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