When should I do first oil change on new truck?

[chuckl1218]

This is some great info thanks for the contributors! I just picked up a 2015 Silverado over the weekend, I don't know how long it was sitting at the dealership, it only had 3 miles on it. So I have 2 questions, should I be concerned about the oil that may have been sitting in my truck for 6-12 months with almost no use? Should I change my oil then do my own break in or just do what you have suggested and then change it around 1k miles.

 

Also, I have been changing my own oil for years, Mobil 1 full syn., should I change to this at that first change and just forget about using the first 2 year free from the dealer (I had also been under the impression that if I did go with the full syn that I should not have dealer do it after as they use a syn. blend and that you should not go from full to blend.. myth?)

As GDI Tech said, some dealers will do M1 for an up charge and some won't. They will use a synthetic blend for the "free" oil changes. Just watch or check their work (make sure it has 8QTS for the V8s and not 8.5QTS, etc.). I had dealer do the first two and then changed to M1.

 

Also, you can tell how long it sat by looking at the build date on the driver door sill sticker or the sticker on the body under the driver's side which will get you close. If you want the build with all of the details and RPO codes, PM GM Customer Service on here and they will send it to your email if you provide the VIN. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/user/92340-gm-customer-service/

 

Oh, and I have several low annual mileage vehicles that get an annual M1 oil change. We have to do annual safety / emissions testing. So they get inspection, oil change and registration renewal all at the same time. Keeps 'em happy, happy, happy.

[Shaunmzs]

I'm pretty bummed after reading this and all the links on engine break-in. I'm right at 250 miles, and it seems except for changing oil, there is nothing I can do about the ring/cylinder seating which occurs around the first 20 miles...

 

Is there even any point at doing the 50% and 100% runs up to 4-5 k rpms at this point?

 

Thanks for all the info! Great reads.

[Donstar]

Yes, the build date is on the door and the codes are in your glove box. Your dealer can also provide you with a duplicate copy of the "window sticker" if it wasn't with the vehicle. If you find that your vehicle has a manufacture date that has your vehicle sitting for close to a year, I personally would go back to the dealer and ask for an oil change and not cost it against the free ones. No matter what kind of a hot deal you made as a yearend model the dealership will want to make you happy for future business. Whether this makes the engine happier or not it is about your comfort level. I may have been off on the distance I drove before my first oil change but I never wait anywhere close to a year between changes. Even your owner's manual will advise your oil changes be done in a timely manner. If your vehicle is a relatively new build then certainly follow GDI Tech's recommendations.

[Sierra_Kayaker]

I went in yesterday with 1022 on the odometer for my first change. Got a lot of odd looks from the dealership service folks once I told them I wanted to go ahead and swap it now, and yes I know it's not due in until 3k.

[Donstar]

I'm pretty bummed after reading this and all the links on engine break-in. I'm right at 250 miles, and it seems except for changing oil, there is nothing I can do about the ring/cylinder seating which occurs around the first 20 miles...

 

Is there even any point at doing the 50% and 100% runs up to 4-5 k rpms at this point?

 

Thanks for all the info! Great reads.

When buying a new vehicle I always looked for one with as close to 0 miles as possible. I didn't want to purchase a vehicle that may have experienced heavy footed test pilots. My current vehicle had a little over 20 miles when I found it and this for me was a big concern. Any worry has long since disappeared and my truck is a joy to drive. My point is for you is to use this information as a better understanding of what takes place in the initial stages of break-in. At this point I would simply drive as you normally would and enjoy your truck! Anyone reading this thread is already putting more care into their engines than the majority of new vehicle.purchasers.

[GDI Tech]

I'm pretty bummed after reading this and all the links on engine break-in. I'm right at 250 miles, and it seems except for changing oil, there is nothing I can do about the ring/cylinder seating which occurs around the first 20 miles...

 

Is there even any point at doing the 50% and 100% runs up to 4-5 k rpms at this point?

 

Thanks for all the info! Great reads.

Go ahead now and follow the procedure laid out in the GM guide I posted. You are right on the edge and may still get some good seating.

 

Good post chuckl1218!!

[15 Z71]

Just curious, is there anyone who changed their oil the first time around 5000 miles? Anybody got higher milage? I guess what I'm getting at is,how are their trucks performing not doing all this break in stuff and just driving it?

[redwngr]

Just curious, is there anyone who changed their oil the first time around 5000 miles? Anybody got higher milage? I guess what I'm getting at is,how are their trucks performing not doing all this break in stuff and just driving it?

Yupp. Just follow the OLM.

 

I've never changed one early.

 

Never had an engine issue in nearly 40 years of buying new vehicles.

 

Modern production assembly techniques are not the same as low volume, hand built (or rebuilt) crate, race or repair engines.

[tnchevy]

I totally agree with redwngr. I work in the timber industry and we get a new truck every few years (put 35k to 50k on them a year). My company puts out a bid for the number of trucks that get replaced to different dealerships with the specs we need. The people in the main office give those of us getting a new truck a call and tell is where to pick it up, usually in a 5 hour radius of the main office. We pick them up and haul **s up the interstate back home. We then don't touch the oil till 5k miles and change it every 5k miles afterwards but sometimes much later than that. Go to whatever quicklube place we have a contract with whatever oil that place carries. In my 20 years of this we have never had any engine problems. Very few people are as hard on vehicles as those of us in the timber/natural gas industries and even though everything else is falling apart on them when we get rid of them the engines are always fine. The trannys, transfer case,diffs, and suspension is a different story.

[15 Z71]

I totally agree with redwngr. I work in the timber industry and we get a new truck every few years (put 35k to 50k on them a year). My company puts out a bid for the number of trucks that get replaced to different dealerships with the specs we need. The people in the main office give those of us getting a new truck a call and tell is where to pick it up, usually in a 5 hour radius of the main office. We pick them up and haul **s up the interstate back home. We then don't touch the oil till 5k miles and change it every 5k miles afterwards but sometimes much later than that. Go to whatever quicklube place we have a contract with whatever oil that place carries. In my 20 years of this we have never had any engine problems. Very few people are as hard on vehicles as those of us in the timber/natural gas industries and even though everything else is falling apart on them when we get rid of them the engines are always fine. The trannys, transfer case,diffs, and suspension is a different story.

That's how I have been with all my trucks. Change oil at 20% and just drive it. Reading all these post made me nerves. I'm glade I'm not the only one who just does this.

[Donstar]

It was said a few times in this thread that most people don't make a special effort to break-in their engines. Most will never notice a difference in performance no matter how they treat their engine. It is nice to know how things work so you can make an informed decision. I like hearing experiences of others and It all helps to form the way I do things!

[GDI Tech]

Absolutely, I would estimate over 99% do not do a proper break-in, and at least 50-60% do not change oil even every 10k miles. Tons of examples on never doing anything to say a lease vehicle (no oil changes, nothing) and still seem to run fine when turned in. This is only for those those that want to care for them the best and are intending to keep the vehicle for a long duration. Just as we all know a 90 year old lady that smoked a pack of cigarettes daily her entire life and never go cancer and outlived most. Only use my info as a guide when looking to do the best, last the longest, have the least oil consumption, etc.

 

Wife used to work with a women bought a new Lincoln every 3 years....never ever did an oil change (they were stuck at a 4 way stop sign when it killed and would not restart....wife had seen oil light on and asked when she checked oil, she replied " Oh, it will start when it cools down, It always does this. I'm trading it in next week". So no, there is never a hard fast rule to the truck/engine whatever will fall apart if not cared for the best it could be, or even what the owners manual states to. Back in the 70's when I was a new tech, we would get in Fords and take the valve cover off and sludge would look like a jello mold the shape of the valve cover and the oil returns completely plugged due to the higher temps the heads ran at compared to the early Chevy's. Lot's of examples.

[GDI Tech]

That is only for crate engines, according to the title at the bottom.

 

If GM thought that applied to truck engines, it would be on the schedule in the manual.

 

 

Do you really believe that any techs follow the steps listed in that procedure when you take your pickup in for it's first (or any) oil change?

That print out came with a crate engine, but ALL engines this applies to. The GM crate/replacement engine is no different than what comes in the vehicles from the factory! LOL! And no, most GM techs do not follow this. Only those wanting to take the time to ensure the best possible rings eating would, and the flat rate for an engine R&R does not allow for the added time to do this. And anyone that does not realize just what is in your oil and the filter from the factory. Anyone, at your firt oil change, save your oil filter and have it cut open (search Jegs or others for a filter cutter) and inspect in the pleats of the filter. This is from a new GM engine at 500-600 miles I did personally not long ago. Look at all that metal and even a broken off bristle from a cleaning brush:

 

 

 

The gold specs are bearing material, the silver are aluminum and steel, and the dark are iron. Can someone explain to me how leaving this abrasive debris in the engine oil is "good"? This is crazy! After the first change a good full synthetic can be safely run for 10k plus miles, but this is when the engine is new and that oil is FULL of assembly debris, filings and shavings from parts wearing in, etc. Most will not notice as they trade every few years for a new vehicle, but even then I could not feel right neglecting something so simple and cheap to do that will ensure as long of life of the engine as possible.

 

 

First oil change interval to the consumer is purely for marketing as each automaker has increased this. They want to appeal to "not having to open your hood or do anything for 5-10K miles" potential buyer. It has nothing to do with what is "good" or "best" for your vehicle or they would not run the cheap DEXOS syn blend oil. All would run full synthetic.

 

 

I break them in hard and change oil early. .... I in no way follow manufacturer anything. ... I build my own engines too so I have my own procedure. Oddly enough. ... I never have issues with ring seal, oil puking pcv systems from blowby and oil consumption either.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

And you do it correctly. What most don;t understand is most maintenance is marketing driven to appeal to the potential buyer and is only the bare minimum to keep the engine alive for the warranty period. If GM says first oil change at 10k miles, and Ford says 500 miles, most will be turned off even though BOTH need the same care. They are engines.

 

Good post!