Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It cannot be removed per se, but the limit can be increased by altering the calibration.

Posted

You really have the need to go faster then 100 mph? Have you ever seen a driveshaft that is not designed for those speeds come out at 100 plus mph? You ever seen a tire blow out that is not designed for high speeds. Make sure your the only one on the road if your going to go faster then 100 mph.

  • Like 1
Posted

What's the cheap and best way to remove the speed limiter for 2016 Silverado High Country 6.2.

You have a 50+ thousand truck and your looking for a cheap way.... come on man!!!

  • Like 3
Posted

Just about any tuner can change the limiter. Be aware that you will run into issues exceeding the speed rating of your tires and potentially the drive shaft.

Posted

2014 and newer trucks have the option in the ECM to have the BCM control the speed limiter. If that is enabled in the ECM a hand held tuner may not change the speed limiter. You can do it with EFILive and probably with HP tuners software.

 

 

Jay

Posted

You can get a superchips programmer right off their website for 280 bucks shipped. It will change the speed limiter. You can also change tunes or leave it stock. It will also disable afm so you can keep the truck from kicking into v4

Posted

You have a 50+ thousand truck and your looking for a cheap way.... come on man!!!

Because I'm not planing to tune it and only looking for one function.

Posted

Know anyone with EFILive or HP tuners? You could get someone to do it for the cost of a VIN license. $125 for EFILive.

 

Jay

Posted

Know anyone with EFILive or HP tuners? You could get someone to do it for the cost of a VIN license. $125 for EFILive.

 

Jay

But I need to return it stock before service.

 

Will this do the job: Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 Tuner for 2014-2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 6.2L EcoTec3 V8.

Posted (edited)

Just did mine this morning oddly enough lol. The pic that Jay P has is correct.... just switch it to ECM and then set it to whatever you want it at...... or so high the truck could never reach it. I used EFILive after I updated it to the latest and greatest and licensed my ECM. It's $125 to buy a license..... but I already own the software so that's not what it costs someone else lol. My trucks speed limiter is now dead and active fuel management is shut off permanently. Those were the 2 biggest things I actually cared about lol.

Edited by 1994Vmax
Posted

But I need to return it stock before service.

 

Will this do the job: Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 Tuner for 2014-2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 6.2L EcoTec3 V8.

 

If you are worried about warranty they will look for reflashes on a big claim anyway.... but if you are worried about them just updating and overwriting you then I see the point.

 

The Hypertech says right on their site you can set the limiter as high as 255 mph so yes it would work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...