Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Greased mine up with some thick dielectric grease last night. Its probably 80% better than it is at its worst. I am going to play with the boot more and see if I can get it to be 100% gone. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, 20165.3Eco said:

Greased mine up with some thick dielectric grease last night. Its probably 80% better than it is at its worst. I am going to play with the boot more and see if I can get it to be 100% gone. 

 

 

It would seem that the TSB is onto something, but they need to amend it to include earlier years.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Jonty711 said:

It would seem that the TSB is onto something, but they need to amend it to include earlier years.

That was my next question. Does this also involve 14 and 15 models...….???

Posted

They did put a steering column in mine under warranty. (dealer was awful). I had a steering noise they diagnosed as the column but I figured it out after it still made noise after replacement. Was the steering angle sensor.

 

Seems as if they could have disturbed the boot assembly in a way that made it worse. The truck was dead quiet prior to about 40,000 miles when they did the column. 

Posted

Anyone found more info on the repair side of the TSB ? I looked up the seal and it looks like a 25-35 dollar part pending where  you price it. Totally worth no ticking if it comes to that. 

 

Side bar, I tried compressing my seal towards the end with a clamp and it must have a fairly stout collar inside the rubber as it wouldn't collapse with a reasonable amount of pressure. I think there may be a secondary seal or lip inside behind the shroud on the steering shaft. 

 

Worst case, we could make a dynamat piece that would attach to the seal or the shaft to take up the gap between the seal and the shaft and block more noise. 

Posted

UPDATE:

 

My truck didn't seem to respond as well to grease as others. It shaped up quite a bit when I tried it but over a few days it returned to almost normal. I think it was getting hot by the exhaust manifold and leaking out. I had dielectric handy with a good dispenser to get up inside that but I think it may be a little less heat resistant than white lithium. 

 

This morning I made up a little cover to test. Where I work we have hundreds of plastic pipe caps laying around. I cut one to a "close" id to match the steering shaft. I slit it up the side to go over the shaft then zip tied it to the end of the steering boot where the shaft goes inside. This isn't permanent but I could see something that was designed properly helping here.

 

I think it does 2 things. The ID of the plug is slightly contacting the OD of the shaft. It A) keeps it from bouncing around down there and B) helps block noise just because an extra piece of material is there. I oriented the slit in the cap to the drivers side away from the engine.

 

This is the quietest the truck has been since it started making noise. I feel the dealer probably boogered up my boot a bit while changing out my steering column. Also, I hope the TSB listed above will maybe spark an updated steering boot we can buy to replace the original design (time will tell). 

 

I will keep driving it as is and report back if the noise comes back or stays away but on my initial test drive it seemed to be completely immune to all types of bumps/throttle application etc. 

Posted
7 hours ago, 20165.3Eco said:

UPDATE:

 

My truck didn't seem to respond as well to grease as others. It shaped up quite a bit when I tried it but over a few days it returned to almost normal. I think it was getting hot by the exhaust manifold and leaking out. I had dielectric handy with a good dispenser to get up inside that but I think it may be a little less heat resistant than white lithium. 

 

This morning I made up a little cover to test. Where I work we have hundreds of plastic pipe caps laying around. I cut one to a "close" id to match the steering shaft. I slit it up the side to go over the shaft then zip tied it to the end of the steering boot where the shaft goes inside. This isn't permanent but I could see something that was designed properly helping here.

 

I think it does 2 things. The ID of the plug is slightly contacting the OD of the shaft. It A) keeps it from bouncing around down there and B) helps block noise just because an extra piece of material is there. I oriented the slit in the cap to the drivers side away from the engine.

 

This is the quietest the truck has been since it started making noise. I feel the dealer probably boogered up my boot a bit while changing out my steering column. Also, I hope the TSB listed above will maybe spark an updated steering boot we can buy to replace the original design (time will tell). 

 

I will keep driving it as is and report back if the noise comes back or stays away but on my initial test drive it seemed to be completely immune to all types of bumps/throttle application etc. 

Can you post a pic of what you made?

Posted

Keep in mind this is extremely crappy and only for testing theory. I would like to build some sort of split collar from plastic or aluminum that clamps onto the steering shaft or the boot and stays stationary or spins with the shaft. Also, something more solid could House some pre cut sound deadening material. 

474A1391-7593-43CD-8760-7E32DA34B6FB.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted

Morning update:

 

Put about 70 miles on the truck last night/this morning. Highway and city crappy streets. Still completely quiet.

 

I can hear the slightest of engine noise at 1000-1200 rpms high load I.E. right before it would downshift to a lower gear but its likely only audible by the best of ears so it doesn't bother me at all. I presume with a nicely built piece and some deadening material on the part it would be basically silent. 

Posted

Lmao, no way I would have ever thought in a million years that greasing a steering shaft would cure a throttle/load dependent noise. But I had to try. The ticking has never been more quiet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted
1 hour ago, tyler.frost92 said:

Lmao, no way I would have ever thought in a million years that greasing a steering shaft would cure a throttle/load dependent noise. But I had to try. The ticking has never been more quiet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I know. It's crazy!! I just got an idea, and voila, here we are!

Posted

Welp, sprayed white lithium grease around boot and..... it friggen works. Not one tick..... I was thinking about taking a piece of high heat sound proofing material and wrapping it around part of the steering column. Should absorb any reverbaration up the column.

What do you guys think?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 10/8/2018 at 6:36 PM, 20165.3Eco said:

Keep in mind this is extremely crappy and only for testing theory. I would like to build some sort of split collar from plastic or aluminum that clamps onto the steering shaft or the boot and stays stationary or spins with the shaft. Also, something more solid could House some pre cut sound deadening material. 

474A1391-7593-43CD-8760-7E32DA34B6FB.jpeg

This is awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...