Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I

2 hours ago, pgamboa said:


I tried that but the plastic faces were different.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the same problem. I sent out a perfectly good cluster, and got it back from WAMS Busted in two spots around the edges. 

I have it installed in my truck now with little showing due to the overlap on the dash covering most of the damage. 

My SLT plastic cover does not fit the Denali cluster. 

Does anyone know if we can purchase the plastic gauge cover?

Posted
1 minute ago, Baldhills said:

I

I have the same problem. I sent out a perfectly good cluster, and got it back from WAMS Busted in two spots around the edges. 

I have it installed in my truck now with little showing due to the overlap on the dash covering most of the damage. 

My SLT plastic cover does not fit the Denali cluster. 

Does anyone know if we can purchase the plastic gauge cover?

You can find them on ebay.  I've seen "new other" ones for $70 (may have scratches, etc) and new for $90 (no imperfections).  That's where I picked up my replacement from. 

Posted
You can find them on ebay.  I've seen "new other" ones for $70 (may have scratches, etc) and new for $90 (no imperfections).  That's where I picked up my replacement from. 

Thanks for the info. Can you by chance post your link for the one you purchased?
Really appreciate it!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Posted
39 minutes ago, Baldhills said:

I

I have the same problem. I sent out a perfectly good cluster, and got it back from WAMS Busted in two spots around the edges. 

I have it installed in my truck now with little showing due to the overlap on the dash covering most of the damage. 

My SLT plastic cover does not fit the Denali cluster. 

Does anyone know if we can purchase the plastic gauge cover?

Mine had a few broken tabs when i got it back but nothing was loose so ididnt worry about it

Posted
54 minutes ago, Baldhills said:


Thanks for the info. Can you by chance post your link for the one you purchased?
Really appreciate it!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Here's the ebay item # 372041942938

 

I noticed the above link was my order details page and not the listing page.

Posted

Apparently the seller of the cluster had installed it in his truck which I’m pretty sure it’s already been tampered with. So I rather just wait it out till a decent one becomes available. And while searching for one in the meantime ill get in touch with WAMS to get more info on compatibility for my truck. 

Posted
26 minutes ago, Elo715 said:

Apparently the seller of the cluster had installed it in his truck which I’m pretty sure it’s already been tampered with. So I rather just wait it out till a decent one becomes available. And while searching for one in the meantime ill get in touch with WAMS to get more info on compatibility for my truck. 

Its easier andbetter to just buy new like i did.  I got mine from spemco    theyre the only ones who would sell me 1

Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Its easier andbetter to just buy new like i did.  I got mine from spemco    theyre the only ones who would sell me 1

Thanks man I’ll try there seems like the better and ideal route anyways so hopefully something comes up there. Thanks for the help. 

Edited by Elo715
Posted
2 minutes ago, Elo715 said:

Thanks man I’ll try there seems like the better and ideal route anyways so hopefully something comes up there. Thanks for the help. 

They will ask you questions but just make itsimple.  "Im doing a cluster swap. Tbis is the part number, imhaving the dealer program it" the end.  

Posted
6 hours ago, Baldhills said:


I’m not able to get anything to come up under that eBay item number.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Did you search the item # listed above from my 2nd post?      

 

372041942938          

 

I just double checked that # on ebay, and it comes right up. 

Posted
Did you search the item # listed above from my 2nd post?      
 
372041942938          
 
I just double checked that # on ebay, and it comes right up. 

I finally got it to come up, but I see he’s out of stock now. Thanks for your help! I will watch for it listed again.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Posted (edited)

So just a few things here if I may to hopefully help everyone:

 

1. We recommend getting new clusters from Greg at Pace Performance. He will work his tail off to make sure you get the right cluster at the best price with zero hassle; he's the man.

2. We get a ton of these in with cracked lenses (likely on the trip in). We do our best to note this on the shipping notice from the website. 

3. Many people are not packaging these appropriately for the trip and we will not add more packing (we don't stock packing material) so make sure your cluster is packed for round trip use not "just barely making it there".

 

Packing instructions:

 

- Make sure you have an adequate sized box for around 2-3" in each dimension of extra space for packing material; don't go crazy on box size 2-3" is plenty with bubble wrap I assure you just make sure its packed TIGHT when sealed :)

- USE BUBBLE WRAP ONLY - NO STYROFOAM PEANUTS. DO NOT USE A METRIC TON OF TAPE SO WE HAVE TO CUT IT TO GET THE CLUSTER OUT; THIS WILL KILL THE BUBBLE WRAP LOL

-Air bladders can be used for secondary protection around the bubble wrap but not a primary means of shock absorption; these get punctured by the edges of the cluster and deflate in transit.

 

Basically just dont toss these in random boxes and ship them in, seeing a lot of that lately and the peanuts are also out of control. Almost to the point we are going to have to start charging a cleanup fee if you use them LOL 

 

We are almost through our backlog and on track to reopen tomorrow sorry for any inconvenience this has caused but its been a bit of a shit show lately with people waiting weeks to send their stuff in rather than right after they place their order hahah 

Edited by GTPprix
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 360 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...