Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, 15BlueSilverado said:

Unfortunately, my 2015 Silverado fell victim to the same issue right around Jan I think. Luckily it hadn't been too hot after so I didn't think much of it until I started searching for the cause. That's when I came across all the thousands of issues and complaints for the same thing. I took my truck to the dealer where I purchased it only to have them tell me that they didn't have any AC service techs working on a Saturday AND that the part wouldn't be covered under warranty. Oh man was I pissed considering my truck only had like 32k miles on it at the time so it should have been covered under warranty. Anyways, I've filed a complaint and I actually found a replacement online for under $100. I plan on fixing it myself and then having a friend with mech shop recharge the system for me. It really sucks that GM hasn't issued a recall for this issue yet, I'm seriously thinking about trading my truck in for a Tundra after this. 

 

UPDATE: So I decided to call the dealership one more time during lunch to see if I could get more info. This time, I was told that my truck was still under the bumper to bumper warranty, which I knew the first time I called considering my truck had like 32k miles at that time, and the repairs would be covered, which is great but now I have this $100 condenser being shipped to me that I no longer need. Anyways, I proceeded to make an appointment for this Thursday to have it fixed. Figure since it's covered by GM, might as well let them fix it and it'll free up my time this weekend to do whatever else comes up. Still considering trading it in though. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 5/21/2018 at 12:01 PM, 15BlueSilverado said:

 

... but now I have this $100 condenser being shipped to me that I no longer need....

Keep it. You are gonna need it when your warranty expires.

 

The general theme among this forum and most GM truck owners that I know is that replacing the AC condenser is pretty much a yearly occurrence. Even on the new part models, apparently the flaw in the condenser still exists. Another problem that GM can't be bothered to a find a solution for.

 

Unless you plan on trading the truck in, I would budget for it to be a yearly expense.

 

Posted

Uhm, yeah, I think that might be a tiny exaggeration.  Has even one person on this board replaced the condenser every year?  While it's certainly a known problem with an apparent failure rate much higher than it should be, there are a whole lot of owners out there like me--4 1/2 year old truck, still on the original, AC still cold as ice....

Posted
On 7/29/2018 at 12:42 PM, Baytrucker said:

Keep it. You are gonna need it when your warranty expires.

 

The general theme among this forum and most GM truck owners that I know is that replacing the AC condenser is pretty much a yearly occurrence. Even on the new part models, apparently the flaw in the condenser still exists. Another problem that GM can't be bothered to a find a solution for.

 

Unless you plan on trading the truck in, I would budget for it to be a yearly expense.

 

Too late, already returned it for a full refund. 

 

I've never heard of anyone having to change theirs out on a yearly basis. I know there's flaws or were flaws in the craftsmanship of the condensers but once replaced, I haven't come across anyone that had the same issue within a year. Since I had it fixed, it's been running great in this TX heat and thank God! 

 

I plan on keeping this truck till it just can't drive or run anymore and when that happens, I'll replace the motor and keep driving it. 

Posted (edited)

A lot of folks here are saying GM should issue a recall which is amusing.  Understand that recalls are only issued for safety concerns and where death or injury can occur.  Air conditioning is not a safety concern, therefore they will never issue a recall for this. What will happen is they'll quietly fix the issue on newer trucks, and see what happens to the existing customers.  Out of those owners who's AC will break, you'll have 2 groups of people.  One group will complain and do research and speak to managers and demand help and they'll get some form of assistance from GM it sounds like for the repair.  Most though will swallow the painful pill of paying the full price to get it fixed and that's what GM is hoping....to spend as little of their own money as possible to fix a poor design.  That's just the reality of the situation.  So hopefully you're still under warranty.  If not and your AC breaks, be prepared to fight a little to get some help.

 

Me personally, I have a 2014 with 60,000 miles and so far the AC still works, but I'm expecting it to break before 100,000 miles.  I'm way out of warranty now so I'm going to have a fight on my hands when it does.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted
On 7/29/2018 at 12:17 PM, Jon A said:

Uhm, yeah, I think that might be a tiny exaggeration.  Has even one person on this board replaced the condenser every year?  While it's certainly a known problem with an apparent failure rate much higher than it should be, there are a whole lot of owners out there like me--4 1/2 year old truck, still on the original, AC still cold as ice....

Of course its an exaggeration. The problem is that no one can say exactly how much of an exaggeration it is. GM doesn't release their defect data (why would they) so we are left with personal anecdotes, speculation, and a whole lot of confirmation bias.

 

Reading this and other forums, its clear that GM has a defect with their condensers. It would be hard to deny that at this point. This wouldn't be such a problem (all vehicles have their shoddy parts), except for the way GM has handled this.

 

There are cases ranging from 2014 all the way up to 2018s with the exact same issue. That's four years where GM has failed to address a defective part. It seems reasonable to conclude that if GM hasn't fixed their condenser model in nearly half a decade, they aren't going to be jumping on a fix any time soon. If you stuck a OEM part in as a replacement, then you can expect its just as likely to fail as the last one. It may not happen every year, but the odds of it happening again are way higher than they should be.

 

I would think that if you have to replace it, go with an aftermarket part. I'm glad you guys have had good resolutions/experiences however.

Posted
1 hour ago, Baytrucker said:

 

There are cases ranging from 2014 all the way up to 2018s with the exact same issue. That's four years where GM has failed to address a defective part.

 

They did address it.....with a brand new 2019 truck ?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/3/2018 at 11:47 PM, Silverado-Hareek said:

 

They did address it.....with a brand new 2019 truck ?

That may be how I address it too. Won't be a GM though.

 

That being said, there is no promise that the 2019 models won't use the same shoddy condenser.

Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, Baytrucker said:

That may be how I address it too. Won't be a GM though.

 

That being said, there is no promise that the 2019 models won't use the same shoddy condenser.

Supposedly, the condenser has already been redesigned on the later model K2's.  The 2019 likely utilizes the lessons learned from the K2 trucks.  Still, I personally wouldn't buy a 2019.  After owning a first year model run 2007 and 2014, I've learned that you really should give a new model a few years to work out all of the bugs.  Reap the benefits of the early adopters.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Wife's 2015 Buick Encore (GM) condenser went out about 7 months ago, just out of warranty.  Leaking from a seam.  When I took it back for replacement ($1,100.00) once the part came in the following week, service manager told me that they (GM) had noticed a problem with the condensers for that year.  He knew I also had a 2015 Silverado and told me the next time I brought it in for service to have them check the condenser.  Wife was scheduled to take it in last Friday and she told me the Tuesday before that the A/C was blowing warm air.  Also just out of warranty.  While there they noticed that there was a leak along the seam and it needed to be replaced, $1,200.00. Drop it off this Wednesday for the replacement.   I do have to admit that the service manager was able to get a little GM assistance with hers and I believe he was able to get a little with mine, so that helps.  I can see where this does not look like a wide spread problem, but if the service manager has known for a while, and both of our 2015's having the same issue, it kinda hits me a little harder.  Die-hard GM guy here, so just venting a little, not going away.

Posted

I thought I was going to be the lucky one who didn't have this issue.....unfortunately it got me as well. New condenser and hose bracket this morning, now I'm back on the road. My truck is a 2016 with 65k miles. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

So I have a 17 Sierra 1500 that I bought new, I got about 43k on it now but the ac stopped working and the condenser has a leak. Dealer quoted me $1597 to replace and recharge the system. I called GM because I’m over my miles and they denied me for goodwill. Anyone else have their condenser go out on their 17. I’ve been reading the post and everyone’s that been having an issue are on model year 14-16. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well just had my ax condenser stop. (2014 with 69k) as I googled possible issues I was quickly sure I’d what the issue was.

 

picked up a replacement at oreillys for $150 and $30 in 134a plus a few hrs and all cold again . 

 

Definetly nit not worth paying a dealership to replace it and with the same crap that was the problem. Simple DIY vids on YouTube.

Posted (edited)

I'm about to replace my condenser because there is no way I'm spending $1.1K for this simple repair. I have a couple of questions though. The Murray unit I see at O'Reilly's is P/N: 7-4283 and it says it is an "A/C Condenser, Oil Cooler And Drier Assembly." What is meant by oil cooler? Is the condenser on these trucks a combination unit that is used for the A/C and a transmission oil cooler or something?

 

EDIT: Finally found a video that touched on it briefly and it looks like my suspicion was correct that the transmission fluid is affected. I'll call up the dealership on Monday and get a quart so it's on hand for this job.

Edited by Dunc
Posted
On 3/4/2019 at 8:53 PM, ZH96 said:

So I have a 17 Sierra 1500 that I bought new, I got about 43k on it now but the ac stopped working and the condenser has a leak. Dealer quoted me $1597 to replace and recharge the system. I called GM because I’m over my miles and they denied me for goodwill. Anyone else have their condenser go out on their 17. I’ve been reading the post and everyone’s that been having an issue are on model year 14-16. 

My 2015 AC won’t keep a charge.  Was your condenser leak in upper right corner facing grill?  Freaking annoying!  My left side lifters have already been replaced now this shit?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...