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Posted

I gutted out the 3rd cat today, Figured it might help a little bit when I go for the Dyno Tune LOL

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Posted

Another dumpster find for a future mod.  Someone threw a 6.2L exhaust out and I cut the front pipe off of it.  I figure if I ended up going with Texas Speed headers, I can get the 6.2L set and use this pipe to make a 3.5" exhaust.  Here's a pic next to my stock exhaust, which is 2.75" on the 5.3.

 

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Posted

Tuner rescheduled my tune for first thing tomorrow morning, but I rescheduled it again because we're getting a snowstorm tonight into tomorrow. new tune date is the 28th. 

Posted

One last mod before I go in for my tune on Thursday.  I found a Magnacharger intake tube so I could run my stock airbox for a more factory look.  I had to move the air box tray over to the driver's side 1'' so it would fit perfectly. 

 

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Full Engine compartment shot:

 

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Posted
 
2017 and newer trucks and suvs have that shutter on the front. It closes at high speeds to reduce drag. I think it also closes when it's cold to help heat up the coolant faster too. 
 
Deleting it will make sure I'm always getting air flow to the heat exchanger. 

How do you delete it?


Sent from above
Posted
11 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:


How do you delete it?


Sent from above

I pulled it out and my tuner will shut off the codes for it.  It just bolts in.  

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Posted (edited)

I changed out my MAP sensor to the LT4 sensor, which is what my tuner uses on his builds and recommended.  

 

I had to modify it to bolt into the manifold, but it uses the stock plug, so I eliminated the jumper that came with the supercharger kit.  SLP uses a Bosch Ford spec MAP sensor.  I was getting an immediate P00C7 code with the old sensor. It cleared right away with the LT4 sensor.  

 

I ended up using a bracket from a Duramax ambient pressure sensor and trimmed the stock bolt hole off.  Afer I did that, I was able to bolt it into the SLP manifold.  

 

Dyno tune tomorrow :D

 

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Edited by qwank
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Posted

One last thing I did before I go in for my tune is change the orifice jet in the bypass valve from SLP's 0.017'' orifice, to a 0.030 orifice. This will allow the bypass valve to close a little bit quicker and build boost a little earlier.  

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Posted

5,046 miles. first dyno tune attempt.

 

so of course if something can go wrong, it goes wrong for me.  

 

I go to get my tune done, and at 4,600 RPMS the PCM keeps pulling fuel so it's going lean.  No idea why.  My guess is some sort of torque management thing but really not sure at all.  He worked on it all afternoon and got it running well up to 4600rpm but there's still a lot more to do.  My partial dyno pulls showed 404whp at 4,600 rpm and 503wtq at 3,900 rpm. 

 

I'll be going back soon when he figures out what the problem is.  At least I can drive the truck now if I keep the rpms down.  

 

also, He's a Whipple dealer so I bought a 160* Whipple brand  thermostat from him.  Supposed to be the only one that won't fail.  I'll install it next week at work.

 

 

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Posted

Gotta love computer gremlins. Hope he gets it figured out! Sounds like it's gonna be a beast!

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Posted
27 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

Gotta love computer gremlins. Hope he gets it figured out! Sounds like it's gonna be a beast!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I'm kinda thinking it might have to do with the fact that he was modifying the base tune I had in there and something was screwed up with it.  Maybe next time I'll reflash it back to stock and start from scratch.

Posted

If he has trouble with the maps in there now, might not hurt to start from scratch and see if that works better

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Posted

I got a wide band gauge, so this is happening now. 

 

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Posted

I picked up a new air compressor for my garage yesterday.  60 gallon two stage from Harbor Freight.  I scored it for $250 during their parking lot sale.  45 minute drive home in the back of my truck. 

 

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