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Posted

Most steering rack or box problems occur due to the leveling or lift kits.

Often associated with popping noises after mods.

Posted
37 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

Most steering rack or box problems occur due to the leveling or lift kits.

Often associated with popping noises after mods.

Mine was a full failure of the EPS box. Happened while parked during a very nasty electrical storm in N.C. In fact there were multiple lightning strikes within a 30yrd radius. I walked out to the truck after a concert and it was dead.

Posted

I’d like to know if the 2019 model still uses the mechanical pump. Or if they went with electrical

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Had the same issue while returning from out of town. Was going 75mph and had to start slowing down for a red light ahead. When I pressed the brakes, the pedal was stiff and there was no slowing response until I had to use both feet. I was able to pull over and get the vehicle to a stop, but it was a very sudden and scary moment. After shutting off the vehicle and restarting it, my brakes returned and I slowly made my way home the remainding 2 miles. However, when I started to brake to stop the vehicle before putting it into reverse to back into the garage, the brakes went stiff again and I managed to stop just a few feet from the wall. Had it towed to the Chevy dealership and was told it was a bad Vacuum pump. Now I'm out $700+. Picking up the truck from the dealership today and will post again if something happens. Truck is a 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ-Z71 2WD with 63,000 miles. I think this a major safety concern. 

 

 

Posted (edited)
On 2/2/2018 at 2:48 PM, Consumer Advocates said:

Still under warranty? Did GM refuse to pay for the vacuum pump repair?

Just got my vacuum pump replaced today. $730. 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ-Z71 2WD with 63,000 miles. I figured it would fall under powertrain warranty, but I guess not. Any idea on if it's possible to have the dealership pay for it? Also, they only replaced the Vacuum pump and belt. Shouldn't they have replaced more due to the service bulletin? Side note - Should I go ahead and change the oil in the truck? I read previously that the vacuum pump could cause metal in the oil? 

Edited by Jimenez44
Posted (edited)

Just got my truck today from body shop for hail damage repair and lost brakes at Low speeds at my work parking lot.  Under warranty so gm towed it but still sucks to now be without again as the body shop had it 3 weeks. 

Edited by squeak93
Posted
Just got my vacuum pump replaced today. $730. 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ-Z71 2WD with 63,000 miles. I figured it would fall under powertrain warranty, but I guess not. Any idea on if it's possible to have the dealership pay for it? Also, they only replaced the Vacuum pump and belt. Shouldn't they have replaced more due to the service bulletin? Side note - Should I go ahead and change the oil in the truck? I read previously that the vacuum pump could cause metal in the oil? 

That depends if oil was found in your vacuum line. If it was then the recommendation is to replace the additional parts of the braking system. If no oil was found in the line and they don’t suspect oil made it into the booster then there’s no reason to replace those parts.

 

Regarding metal in the oil, again, if the failure didn’t result in metal shavings being released, then there is no reason to change the oil. Give the dealership a call and ask if they specifically checked for such a possibility and what part of the vacuum pump failed.

 

There certainly are benefits to the dealer performing the repairs, however, if you are handy and are looking to save some cash, a brand new AC Delco mechanical vacuum pump for the L83/L86 can be purchased on Amazon for $130 and comes with a 1 year warranty.

 

Likewise, if you don’t want to chance it with another mechanical pump, you can purchase an aftermarket electric pump for about $250-$350 which has all of the valves and switches pre-installed so all you have to do is connect the vacuum line to your booster and connect two wires to a fused power feed. Automatically turns on when vacuum is at or less than 15inHg and auto shuts off at 20inHg. I’m going this route and parts will be here next week.

 

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Posted
Let us know how it works out. I've heard that the aftermarket vacuum pumps can be a little loud, but who knows...

Expensive but quiet, go to 1:36 in the video. https://www.mpbrakes.com/accessories/silent-drive-vacuum-pump-ac9001k.aspLess expensive and quiet, go to 2:02 in the video. https://leedbrakes.com/c-1183501-vacuum-pumps-parts.htmlThis is the same one I bought except in black. Go to 1:05 in the video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=94ajut6OEek I believe these are all rotary vane pumps which greatly decreases how loud they are compared to diaphragm/piston style pumps. I’ll be sure to post my install and results.
Posted

Got my truck back in less than a day. Gm dealer actually fixed it on a sat. Woot woot. 

 

Replaced the pump, booster, master cylinder, and lines. All according to the tsb. Truck stops now which is kind of important. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, squeak93 said:

Got my truck back in less than a day. Gm dealer actually fixed it on a sat. Woot woot. 

 

Replaced the pump, booster, master cylinder, and lines. All according to the tsb. Truck stops now which is kind of important. 

What did the cost run you?

Posted
Just now, Jimenez44 said:

What did the cost run you?

Warranty. Only at 32500 miles. Gm towed it and all which was nice  since it had no brakes lol. 

Posted
5 minutes ago, squeak93 said:

Warranty. Only at 32500 miles. Gm towed it and all which was nice  since it had no brakes lol. 

Nice. Do you know what warranty it falls under? Bumper to bumper I assume?

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