backup camera wiring , 2011 sierra 1500

[tom mcd]

Need advise on wiring, don't want computer damage, have experience with adding ham radio in previous truck, soldering coax, household wiring , etc.. Am retired and can't afford a nice installed system, and enjoy a challenge doing it myself , if successful. I think i want a 5" diag. monitor, velcro to dash just to right of steering wheel, and below but over the small cubby hole . For camera i'm looking for a 1/3" flush mount bumper type, maybe a name brand . I didn't want to remove the tailgate, drill out the handle bezel for a camera . I have lowered my tag half an inch and think i can squeeze it in below the top of the bumper. My concern is the wiring, I downloaded instruction from Brandmotion, which was very helpful. I tapped the wire in M-BEC the c-11 grey plug , pin # 5, which tested to be 7.8 v. with ignition on and 14.4 volts in rev. gear, only with truck running, backed up to maple tree, wife is sick and can't assist, (trigger voltage I suppose.) The instructions said i could get the ignition voltage in c-12 brown plug, pin 7, but that pin cavity was empty. I tested the other empty rack pins below , and found one or more that have voltage 14.4 (ignition) i suppose. Might be safe to use, don't know. Then i heard that if you short the wrong connection under there you might cook a $2000. computer. So i would prefer not to go further as the instructions said ,to lower the BCM look for x-5 brown , and somehow connect to pin 13 for ignition voltage. Would it be easier and safer to get ignition voltage source at the dash side panel at one of the fuses using a pep boy's fuse tap, and if so which fuse ? Haven't seen an accessory hook up anywhere. Haynes auto manual was not detailed enough. If the trigger voltage runs between the camera and monitor, which area should it be fed from. ? Even considering getting the trigger voltage and ignition voltage at the 7 pin trailer harness, like Hopkins Smart Hitch does. Would appreciate any advise. Thanks

[Jsdirt]

Yes, would be 10x easier to grab 12v out of anywhere in the fuse panel, or in the box on the firewall between the e-brake and brake pedal (for cluster power), so long as it doesn't draw a whole lot of amperage / wattage.

 

You'd have to be pretty careless to fry a computer, like sending 12v down a 5v reference wire or to a computer ground ... and even that won't kill them half the time.

 

I would tap into the indoor fuse panel personally. Much easier.

 

There are wireless systems out there - can't speak for how good they are picture-quality wise, but would be a billion times easier to install.

 

For running wiring into the cab from outside, I use the e-brake cable grommet on the floor - with some patience, you can fish a good sized wire or 2 up through there, or up to 4 or more lighter gauge wires, and still stay water tight - no drilling needed.

[tom mcd]

thank you,

Yes i read that the wired systems dont have as much interference. Is the 7 pin trailer harness wiring computer free ? I'll check tomorrow if the 12 volts there is ignition or continuous hot.

i could check with NAPA which is near or drive 17 miles and see what pep boys has for a fuse tap, i used a standard blue clamp-on one that pierces the insulation , for the reverse trigger voltage from the M-BEC C-11 pin 5. And not sure if it should go to monitor or camera or maybe both ?

And I guess I'll just run the ignition voltage from the interior i.p. fuse panel source , not sure which one ? and go to area below dash just under the cigar lighter , for the monitor, so it will be warm when the engine runs, waiting for trigger signal from the camera. I have removed and notched the lower center cover panel , and removed tilt out ash tray, and behind it drilled two holes thru the plastic to feed rca video cable for future monitor. Not sure if i should also run this same ignition voltage to the camera or pick up 12 volts from 7 pin trailer harness , if it"s not continuous hot. You would think that you wouldn"t turn on either one till you went into reverse. This can"t be this complicated. If I ever get this figured out and installed i would like to put one on my wife's 4-runner too.

[Ianf]

You should use the SEO upfitter's connectors up the dash just to the left of the steering column. It has retained accessory power (RAP)triggers and others in it. The camera should be either wired to the backup lights or the 7 pin trailer connector. That is the easiest way to go. www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/109163-rap-how-to-on-nbs-keyed-accessory-power/page-1 give a lot of detail on this method.

[tom mcd]

Thank you very much.

Tested the 7 pin trailer harness , all dead with switch off.

 

I have the rev. trigger voltage , which I boldly (before I got scared) tapped onto a wire coming out of the M-BEC C-11 , at pin 5 per BrandMotion instructions. I need to add a 7.5 v fuse and run to the monitor and camera.

I found an unused four pin 30 a. relay , left over from a horn installation , Think that might do as one wire is not used anyway.

For getting RAP Ign, volts at M-Bec C-14 if I correctly add a relay circuit , diode , harness, and relay bracket. Which I understand is the best method.

Or

I could lower the spare tire and tap the trailer wiring for Ign. 12v. at the "12 v. aux." wire which may be the red wire. #4 position, add a 7.5 a. fuse in an in line holder and run to the camera area, very close by. Since will have to lower the tire anyway if I stick with a flush mount camera.

For rap ignition voltage for the monitor, I have read that several camera system dealers also like to use the interior fuse block.

One is an empty slot labeled "rear ac" 30 a. I wonder if i could insert a fuse tap into that with a six inch lead to a fuse holder and 7.5 a fuse, recommended, and run to the monitor area.

Then i could turn on the camera anytime with the monitor switch.

If that fails , pick another "occupied " fuse , except for brakes, and add a fuse tap .