Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks to @pgamboa I ordered one of those connectors from Mouser. I have a 2015 and swapped lids with a 2016 wireless charging lid. Looks like now Ill be retrofitting that lid with a module from a 2018 lid. Does anybody have a good price on acquiring the 13507652 module and the lead time on it? 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:


Shouldn’t be. Just power, ground, and charge indicator circuit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well with GM, you never really know. What’s commons sense to us, 1-hour service charge for them. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
Well with GM, you never really know. What’s commons sense to us, 1-hour service charge for them. 
 
 

Oh yeah. Totally understand. Since I haven’t been able to get my wireless lid to actually charge, I can’t tell if the charging indicator icon (the one that shows on the radio) actually works. This is the only circuit that lands in the BCM.

When I place my iPhone X on the mat, my phones registers something. I get the indicator telling what battery % my phone is at, then nothing.

Hopefully this updated module gets released soon. I mainly use a hardwired mount that has a USB Cable built into it. But they don’t have a new mount for the iPhone X yet.

It just really bugs me that I stare at a non-functioning lid every time I get in the truck [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

I just purchased a brand new Moto-Z, with the Tumi Moto Mod auxillary battery that transforms the phone to accept wireless charging. The phone charges fine about 2/3 of the time. My previous phone,  a Droid Turbo, charged flawlessly every time. I too am upgrading to the 2018 setup, with the updated rubber mat once it is available.

Posted
21 hours ago, David Ulbrich said:

It is not an Apple issue.  This is a GM issue.  No but of software will fix a hardware issue with the hardware that was used in the vehicle itself.

Yes, but doesn't iOS 11.2 offer up 7.5W wireless charging?  You're probably right though -- if the 16-17 chargers can't handle 5W, 7.5W isn't going to be any better?

Posted
1 minute ago, Bangback said:

Yes, but doesn't iOS 11.2 offer up 7.5W wireless charging?  You're probably right though -- if the 16-17 chargers can't handle 5W, 7.5W isn't going to be any better?

Since the charger supposedly does not even offer the 5W that the standards state (which is the issue in the first place as they did not follow the spec standards for Qi), it does not matter what the phone will allow.  It is still going to be a hardware charger issue and not the phone or the software.

Posted

I think we need to complain to GM.  I purchased a $70k vehicle that was advertised with wireless charging.  The more of us that complain to GM, we might get them to do something about it.  The car was advertised in supporting Qi and it doesn't, not fully until 2018. That's on them.  Even if we can only get them to cover half the costs of swapping out a lid for the 2018 that would save us a few hundred $$.  

 

Posted
10 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Oh yeah. Totally understand. Since I haven’t been able to get my wireless lid to actually charge, I can’t tell if the charging indicator icon (the one that shows on the radio) actually works. This is the only circuit that lands in the BCM.

When I place my iPhone X on the mat, my phones registers something. I get the indicator telling what battery % my phone is at, then nothing.

Hopefully this updated module gets released soon. I mainly use a hardwired mount that has a USB Cable built into it. But they don’t have a new mount for the iPhone X yet.

It just really bugs me that I stare at a non-functioning lid every time I get in the truck emoji23.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so did you try with the new 2018 wireless unit or no?

sorry if i missed something.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/29/2017 at 4:47 PM, 2017SierraSLT said:

Some of the base Tahoes come without a charger, so they have this smooth mat that fits inside the bezel..

 

s-l1600.jpg

For those that still want the part number for this, it is in the picture below in the upper left corner.  

3D3D1830-FB1B-4497-9A28-69952499B442.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 11/5/2017 at 4:30 PM, robsieb said:

Tried it on my 2016 Sierra and no luck with my iPhone X. Wish I had access to an Android or anything else other than an iPhone. I’m starting to think the module I have may not be working but have no way to back that up. 

 

For those of you that tried the screen/magnet removal trick and didn't have it work, I also tried this, and it didn't work at first.  No matter what orientation I put the phone in, with the charging module unscrewed from the armrest with direct phone to back of charger contact, nothing would trigger charging on the phone or the lightning bolt on the truck screen.

 

However, when I unplugged the white connector from module for a few seconds, and plugged it back in, it immediately began to work!  I had my iPhone X resting on the black charger surface when I plugged it back in, and have had no issues since.  It works in the standard rubber tray configuration, right side up, and upside down.  It works after i turn off the ignition and start it back up.

 

So if it didn't work the first time for you, try unplugging it, then plugging it back in (with the phone on the charger while you do it).  I don't know if the phone laying on the charger made any difference, but that's how it started working for me!  It even works well with the official Apple iPhone X Silicone case, which is what I am now using with it.

 

I'm not exactly sure what the screen with the magnet does.  I can imagine the magnet is to help center devices with magnets so it orients correctly with the charging coil.  My guess with the screen with the grid is perhaps it's some kind of feedback power control method?  The grid has 4 contacts of where it connects to the PCB.  The two outer ones make a loop around the screen, whereas the two middle contacts are just a short with each other.  Perhaps it senses exactly how much induction is coming out of the coil?  Maybe the side effect of having this screen is that it blocks too much of the induction?  Again, this is just pure speculation on my part.  

 

Edited by Bangback
  • Like 1
Posted
so did you try with the new 2018 wireless unit or no?
sorry if i missed something.

I have not. I was working with someone who had access to a 2018 Charging module, but the road block at the time was not having the right connectors/terminals to mate them up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Bangback said:

For those of you that tried the screen/magnet removal trick and didn't have it work, I also tried this, and it didn't work at first.  No matter what orientation I put the phone in, with the charging module unscrewed from the armrest with direct phone to back of charger contact, nothing would trigger charging on the phone or the lightning bolt on the truck screen.

 

However, when I unplugged the white connector from module for a few seconds, and plugged it back in, it immediately began to work!  I had my iPhone X resting on the black charger surface when I plugged it back in, and have had no issues since.  It works in the standard rubber tray configuration, right side up, and upside down.  It works after i turn off the ignition and start it back up.

 

So if it didn't work the first time for you, try unplugging it, then plugging it back in (with the phone on the charger while you do it).  I don't know if the phone laying on the charger made any difference, but that's how it started working for me!  It even works well with the official Apple iPhone X Silicone case, which is what I am now using with it.

 

I'm not exactly sure what the screen with the magnet does.  I can imagine the magnet is to help center devices with magnets so it orients correctly with the charging coil.  My guess with the screen with the grid is perhaps it's some kind of feedback power control method?  The grid has 4 contacts of where it connects to the PCB.  The two outer ones make a loop around the screen, whereas the two middle contacts are just a short with each other.  Perhaps it senses exactly how much induction is coming out of the coil?  Maybe the side effect of having this screen is that it blocks too much of the induction?  Again, this is just pure speculation on my part.  

 

I did some testing this morning in my '17 Suburban.  I left this morning with an 87% charge on my iPhone X and put it on the armrest charger.  25 minutes later, I took a look at the phone and it was up to 94%.  The phone was not hot, and the lightning bolt was steadily displayed on the Suburban display for the entire duration.  

 

I asked a friend what he though the magnet/screen ribbon cable set up might be for.  Again, this is just pure guessing, but he thought that it looked like an antenna, and that perhaps it was acting as a filter so that only the Qi frequencies would be able to be passed from the coil?  The guess is that maybe it's just connected to filtered ground and the grid pattern itself is what is causing the filtering?  Perhaps it is something that is needed to compliance against unwanted transmissions that are out of band for Qi?   This is probably older technology and new chargers may not need this anymore?  The magnet is just used to ensure the device is properly centered on the coil, lining up with a magnet in the device itself.  

 

Anyone else have any ideas?

 

 

Edited by Bangback
Posted
I just purchased a brand new Moto-Z, with the Tumi Moto Mod auxillary battery that transforms the phone to accept wireless charging. The phone charges fine about 2/3 of the time. My previous phone,  a Droid Turbo, charged flawlessly every time. I too am upgrading to the 2018 setup, with the updated rubber mat once it is available.

 

So the 2018s have a different charging module and rubber console mat?

 

Edit: Nvm, saw your confirmation on another post. Do you have the rubber mat part number?

Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, cmatt said:

 


So the 2018s have a different charging module and rubber console mat?

 

Yes, the 2018 has a different charging module.

 

Some have said that the rubber console mat (or as GM calls it, just "LINER") is different, or at least a different part number.  From the pictures I have seen on chevrolet.com, it looks the same compared to 2017, but it's possible it could be different?

 

I tried the mod posted by another user on this thread to my '17 charger by removing the screen/magnet, and it seems to be working, even with the '17 rubber liner and '17 bezel, in the factory configuration, without having to flip the rubber, etc, that others have had to do.  With it working with the '17 parts, perhaps the '18 parts are the same as the '17 and earlier, with the exception for the '18 charger (plus the different connector)?

 

 

Edited by Bangback
Posted
37 minutes ago, Bangback said:

Yes, the 2018 has a different charging module.

 

Some have said that the rubber console mat (or as GM calls it, just "LINER") is different, or at least a different part number.  From the pictures I have seen on chevrolet.com, it looks the same compared to 2017, but it's possible it could be different?

 

I tried the mod posted by another user on this thread to my '17 charger by removing the screen/magnet, and it seems to be working, even with the '17 rubber liner and '17 bezel, in the factory configuration, without having to flip the rubber, etc, that others have had to do.  With it working with the '17 parts, perhaps the '18 parts are the same as the '17 and earlier, with the exception for the '18 charger (plus the different connector)?

 

 

It baffles me why this works for some and not for others?  I have a 2017 and iPhone 8. After magnet and screen removal it only works if phone is laying on the mat before you start the truck. Little lightning bolt pops up on dash screen and phone charges. If I remove the phone and place it back there after the truck is started..it won’t work.  Won’t work again until I turn off the truck, make sure phone is on the mat, then start the truck again. Why the inconsistency??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 496 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...