Jump to content

Wireless charging

jrhoyt84
 Share

Recommended Posts

GMC_SD_Ult_16 Enthusiast

GMC_SD_Ult_16

Posted
Posted

Sorry if I missed it earlier but does anyone know if the charger in the 2018 models (new replacement part number version mentioned previously ) is a fast wireless charge or just an updated part number that does not charge at the faster rates. I have a Samsung Note 8 and this phone can fully charge in less than an hour on a fast charge however on the Qi charge from my 2016 when playing around with it we could wait up too 3 hours. Hate to put an "updated" part in and get very little to no better performance.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Replies 557
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Ed36rgz71
Ed36rgz71

Have S8+ with a case did this quick and easy just flip the rubber part and you're good to go    

8lugCT
8lugCT

Because the charger is positioned toward the back, and with the way the pad is, the bumper on the backside pushes the phone forward away from the charger. So reversing the mat allows the phone to be p

David Ulbrich
David Ulbrich

The 2018 works just fine with my iPhone X.  I just went to the dealership and tested it out.  I got the part number for the 2018 wireless charger module which is 13507652.  The parts guy said that it

Posted Images

8lugCT Enthusiast

8lugCT

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, GMC_SD_Ult_16 said:

Sorry if I missed it earlier but does anyone know if the charger in the 2018 models (new replacement part number version mentioned previously ) is a fast wireless charge or just an updated part number that does not charge at the faster rates. I have a Samsung Note 8 and this phone can fully charge in less than an hour on a fast charge however on the Qi charge from my 2016 when playing around with it we could wait up too 3 hours. Hate to put an "updated" part in and get very little to no better performance.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

don't count on it

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I use Apple Play in my truck as well. As a matter of fact, my new ProClip Holder for my iPhone X came in today.

 

Probably the only reason for me to get this stinking wireless lid to work for iPhones, would be for those rare moments where my passenger is too lazy to plug their phone to a cable and would just rather throw the phone on the lid for those short drives. There are also times where I’m working on my truck and I have a habit of just throwing my phone conveniently on the lid.

 

I mean - I only have (5) USB ports I can use , and a 12V - Dual USB plug - dedicated for charging only [emoji23][emoji23]... but to stare at this lid knowing it won’t charge my phone is enough for me to get it to work... and of course, show everyone here how I did it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

2017SierraSLT Senior Enthusiast

2017SierraSLT

Posted
Posted
On ‎11‎/‎24‎/‎2017 at 2:37 AM, GMC_SD_Ult_16 said:

Sorry if I missed it earlier but does anyone know if the charger in the 2018 models (new replacement part number version mentioned previously ) is a fast wireless charge or just an updated part number that does not charge at the faster rates. I have a Samsung Note 8 and this phone can fully charge in less than an hour on a fast charge however on the Qi charge from my 2016 when playing around with it we could wait up too 3 hours. Hate to put an "updated" part in and get very little to no better performance.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I will perform a one hour charge test on my friend's 2018 and report back if there is any difference between his and my 2017 in terms of charging rate for my Moto Z.

Black Denali Canada Enthusiast

Black Denali Canada

Posted
Posted

My ‘17 Denali will charge if I start the truck with the phone on the charge pad but if I remove it and put it back, nothing happens. Removed the magnet & square plastic encased coil, swapped charge pad to keep phone closer to the rear of the truck.

Anyone had any more luck with it ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bangback Enthusiast

Bangback

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 11/26/2017 at 9:17 AM, Black Denali Canada said:

My ‘17 Denali will charge if I start the truck with the phone on the charge pad but if I remove it and put it back, nothing happens. Removed the magnet & square plastic encased coil, swapped charge pad to keep phone closer to the rear of the truck.

Anyone had any more luck with it ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a similar issue on my '17 Suburban.  Took out the magnet and screen as well.  Mine will usually work fine when i put it on and take it off the wireless charger, but sometimes it doesn't respond.  When then happens, I plug in the lighting cable for a second, then after that, it seems to work OK again, being able to wirelessly charge after that.  Others have had the same issue, and when they plug their cable in, it doesn't fix it.

 

The better solution is to use the 2018 module, once people figure out if it works with pre 2018 models, with the proper harness also.  My 9 rib rubber liner seems to work OK with the 2017 charger without the magnet/screen, but a 10 rib liner would give more flexibility for phone placement.

 

 

Edited by Bangback
Steve6611 Enthusiast

Steve6611

Posted
Posted
On 11/21/2017 at 10:58 AM, Bangback said:

I did some testing this morning in my '17 Suburban.  I left this morning with an 87% charge on my iPhone X and put it on the armrest charger.  25 minutes later, I took a look at the phone and it was up to 94%.  The phone was not hot, and the lightning bolt was steadily displayed on the Suburban display for the entire duration.  

 

I asked a friend what he though the magnet/screen ribbon cable set up might be for.  Again, this is just pure guessing, but he thought that it looked like an antenna, and that perhaps it was acting as a filter so that only the Qi frequencies would be able to be passed from the coil?  The guess is that maybe it's just connected to filtered ground and the grid pattern itself is what is causing the filtering?  Perhaps it is something that is needed to compliance against unwanted transmissions that are out of band for Qi?   This is probably older technology and new chargers may not need this anymore?  The magnet is just used to ensure the device is properly centered on the coil, lining up with a magnet in the device itself.  

 

Anyone else have any ideas?

 

 

I think the magnet/screen is a wireless receiver, which makes you wonder why would GM put both a wireless transmitter and a receiver in the same box.  My theory is that the risk averse engineers at GM were worried about safety risks of someone putting something metal on the wireless charger, even though the wattages are very low.  I believe they put in a receiver to reduce the overall output of the transmitter, which is why the 2017s and earlier don't meet the QI standard.   That's just a theory--I could be wrong.

Carter8 Enthusiast

Carter8

Posted
Posted

I have the iPhone X and I installed my own wireless coil, fast charges and no problems and no overheating, only thing people forget is you have to buy a fast charge USB port to go in the outlet or you won’t get the fast charge. 

8lugCT Enthusiast

8lugCT

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Carter8 said:

I have the iPhone X and I installed my own wireless coil, fast charges and no problems and no overheating, only thing people forget is you have to buy a fast charge USB port to go in the outlet or you won’t get the fast charge. 

you installed it in the console?

Bikemobile Enthusiast

Bikemobile

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Carter8 said:

I have the iPhone X and I installed my own wireless coil, fast charges and no problems and no overheating, only thing people forget is you have to buy a fast charge USB port to go in the outlet or you won’t get the fast charge. 

Pics please. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,888
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    xdieselmechanic
    Newest Member
    xdieselmechanic
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 614 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • davester
      OBD not ready?

      By davester · Posted

      Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

      from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...