Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, I had to pay the full amount. I told the service manager about my contact with Chevy, and they had given me a case number, but he hadn't heard a thing. My bill came to $1034.37 ($404.37 parts, $630.00 labor). Bill reads as follows:

C/S that the A/C not cooling, check and advise refrigerant leaking from condensor and high A/C line.

Replaced high pressure line and condensor, EVA C and recharged system and retested.

23438932 (hose) 1 $127.36

23264893 (bracket) 1 $6.68

12356150 (refrigerant) 2 $14.26

20982844 (*condenser) 1 $256.07

 

I have now submitted a claim on the FTC site about this issue and for grins, submitted to that lawyer link earlier in this thread just to give them information. The lawyers have since called me already asking me to be a client and file suit with them. I told them I'd think about it. I'm half hoping GM will reach out on that case number and try to do the right thing.

Posted

Hopefully your ac is working great now?

 

 

I don't think I'd join one of these class suits over $1k. GM will settle for a fraction of the class costs and most of that will go to the slimey lawyers. You'll get a check for almost enough for dinner for two at the local family feed trough. The lawyers don't have to even work on much other than filings and will cut a fat hog and make enough for that new corporate jet they've been wanting. It's a crooked racket. I choose to not participate in these kind of lawyer enriching scams.

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

AC is working just fine.

 

Also, yesterday the Service Manager at the dealership where I had it serviced called and had just spoken with GM. GM said they'd help with $300 of the cost. Problem is, the service was already done, which the GM rep was surprised by (why wouldn't I get the truck fixed right away?!?). At any rate, since the amount can't be applied to the repair since I already paid, the best method of dealing with it is applying a $300 credit for any future service I get at the dealership. If I were to ask for the money now, in cash, apparently there's a several week bureaucratic paper nightmare to get GM to release the cash to the dealership who would then have to release the cash to me. :wtf:

 

At any rate, I've also submitted a similar complaint I did to the FTC to my state's AG consumer complaints.

 

This is an issue GM should be actively dealing with, rather than owners having to prod them to help with.

Edited by GhostTX
Posted

I wonder if I can speed up my condenser's failure to get my '14 covered under warranty? I bought mine new off the lot in '15, so I have some time and miles left :fingersx:

Posted

tap the top connection with a screwdriver and a hammer. just be gentle lol


I wonder if I can speed up my condenser's failure to get my '14 covered under warranty? I bought mine new off the lot in '15, so I have some time and miles left :fingersx:

tap the top connection with a screwdriver and a hammer. just be gentle lol

Posted

I wonder if I can speed up my condenser's failure to get my '14 covered under warranty? I bought mine new off the lot in '15, so I have some time and miles left :fingersx:

 

It can go early. My condenser went under a year with only 2,089 miles on it.

Posted

Anybody what exactly the cause of failure was. I "think" I know it was the high pressure line at the condenser....

Posted

Does anyone know if the 2017's will have the same issue, or did they use a different condenser and/or lines?

Posted

Does anyone know if the 2017's will have the same issue, or did they use a different condenser and/or lines?

 

2017 models also have the faulty designed condenser depending if they were manufactured early. If you are buying a new truck, I'd find out if it has the redesigned one before buying it. You don't want to be like me and have to bring your truck in 5 times to get the AC fixed (they replaced my faulty designed one with another faulty designed one). I have to wait until my 2nd faulty designed one fails before they replace it with the 'good' one. I'm not happy about it and went off on the GM guy about it.

Posted

Buy a new condenser on eBay ($82). Or buy a can of Permatex "the right stuff" gasket maker ($15) to seal the hole. Use alcohol to clean the area before using the gasket maker as a patch. Then recharge the coolant with a refill kit from Walmart ($20). I see people spending thousands of dollars to fix their A/C, when it can usually be fixed for a few hundred max.

Posted

Buy a new condenser on eBay ($82). Or buy a can of Permatex "the right stuff" gasket maker ($15) to seal the hole. Use alcohol to clean the area before using the gasket maker as a patch. Then recharge the coolant with a refill kit from Walmart ($20). I see people spending thousands of dollars to fix their A/C, when it can usually be fixed for a few hundred max.

 

Anyone try this? Successfully? I have an appointment to get mine fixed on Monday, but I'd give this a shot and save myself $700 if it works.

Posted

I have repaired A/C condensers and radiators with Permatext many times. I have had other people report back to me that my repair advice worked (to their amazement). Here is the way I look at it: What do you have to lose? The condenser is already broken. Putting a band-aid on the condenser is not going to make your rear bumper fall off. Worst case scenario - throw the $15 can of gasket maker in the trash and take the rig to the dealer and pay them what they want. They wont charge you more just because there is a little patch of Permatex on the condenser. You could even buy the $82 condenser on eBay and then pay a little mom and pop shop $100 to install it and recharge the A/C system.

Posted (edited)

I have a 1994 Altima that was in a front end crash before I got it. The condenser had a hole in the front center. I planned on replacing the condenser, but I tried the patch first (nothing to lose) and it worked. A friend of mine was pulling forward in his dads brand new Ford truck and ran over a flower planter. Broke off the the lower outlet tube (that tube that the lower radiator hose attaches to). I cleaned it up with alcohol and used Permatex to put it back on. Told him to wait 24 hours before putting the hose back on. That was 3 years ago, and his dad is still driving that rig with no radiator leaks. The examples could go on and on. Jules's brother had a Honda with a broken seam across the top of the radiator, and it was leaking badly along about a 10" section. I told him to clean it with alcohol and throw a bunch of Permtex at it. He did it at night and he drove it to work the next morning and it was fine, no more leaks. (he was supposed to wait 24 hours before driving it!)

 

 

Here are some Google pics, of other people doing the same thing:

 

 

 

maxresdefault.jpg

Edited by starman8tdc
Posted (edited)

Sorry, don't mean to over post, but this is a subject that I have a lot of experience with.

 

Here is two products you can use:

 

The Permatex One Minute Gasket maker is the best, because it will flex with the expansion and contraction of the radiator (due to temperature changes). Its a very durable rubber that sticks to anything. I have never seen this product fail.

 

The JB Quick will work, and set up faster, but it does not flex the same way as the Permatex will. The JB Qucik can fail due to the temperature changes. The JB Quick radiator repair failures are rare, but it does happen when epoxy type products are used for this type of repair.

 

930-3000.jpg

380238.jpg

Edited by starman8tdc
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
    • So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular mainenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires.  it does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...