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Rebates & Discount off MSRP


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Good idea, never thought of that! I could be wrong, but isn't' there usually a rebate OR low interest financing usually? So taking the loan may not save you as much if you loose out on an extra rebate instead? Or am I thinking about it wrong?

No, your thinking is correct. The $4000 - $6500 depending on the model Silvy are called cash offers for a reason.....you only get the whole amount only if you pay cash. Or, some lower discount for the how much do I qualify for a month crowd and end up paying much more for the vehicle in the end.

 

And most dealer's permit credit card charging to qualify toward the cash transaction.......once tried to charge the whole $40K but they limited it to $3K (some will take up to $5K) on the card......so max that out and pay it off when due to avoid an interest charge while earning additional cash back from the card company on the purchase. You can even use it as a bargaining chip. After agreeing to a rock bottom price on the deal tell them you plan to pay the max with the credit card or you'll pay all cash if they throw in all weather mats or clip off another $50 on the deal because you'll save them the merchant's credit card fee for the transaction. Nothing to lose and it's a win-win situation for you.

 

Cash will always work to one's benefit over credit because almost all States have laws that prohibit a penalty being incurred by the consumer for a cash transaction. That's why there is an "OR" in the offer.

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Did you pay cash? How did you shop around without even stepping into a dealership? Just curious, your method is what I aim to do as well.

No, I actually told them I would consider financing with the dealer if they could beat the rate's I can get on my own. My credit union was offering 2.9% which to me is good enough not to haggle with the dealership over the rate. Also, credit unions typically have better pricing on extend warranties and GAP insurance if that's something you're interested in.

 

As for the shopping, There's several excuses you can give them as to why you cannot come in to speak in person. I've found the ones that work the best are something like:

 

- I'm traveling for work and would like to get this all worked out ahead of time so I can just come in and pick it up when I get back

- My schedule is so busy / too many meetings / working off hours / etc

- or my favorite, i'm coming in from out of town and would like to get this all worked out ahead of time so I can just come in and pick it up when I get there. I don't want to waste my time driving down there if the numbers don't make sense.

 

They're always going to be reluctant to work with someone who doesn't come in person but if you have a good reason you have a shot. My other advise is always try to communicate by email (or even text message if that is an option, but I prefer email) that way you have a paper trail and if they send you the numbers you can shop around.

 

It took me about 2-3 weeks to bounce around and find the best dealer to work with and the best pricing with that last week being all number crunching and working out the details. They were doing everything possible not to put anything in writing but " I work in finance and the end price doesn't make sense to me unless I can see the how we got there. Sorry I'm a numbers guy and this is how it makes sense to me". Once they sent me the numbers we worked a few small details and closed the deal.

 

The key it to be patient, when I first talked to the dealer I purchased from they wanted about $3000 more than I bought for. But when he didn't hear back from me initially, he emailed me and I told him "sorry it seems like there's better pricing out there" and that got him moving on the numbers. His answer was " send me what you got and I'm sure I can match it or do better"

 

Its all a game man, just have to know how to play it. In the end, I'm happy with the price I paid and glad I lined up the financing on my own

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Sounds like your dealership is both a Chevy and gmc dealer..... If you're not both, you can't warranty for the other. It's a GM thing...

Yes, but there may be some leeway on this policy in an emergency situation. I was told by my local GMC-Buick dealer that they could not do any warranty service work on my Chevys. But in an emergency situation such as a Chevy breakdown out of State where the nearest Chevy dealer is much further than a GMC dealer (or vice versa) for emergency road service pickup and dealer repair - an exception can be requested by the dealer and permission granted for emergency repairs under warranty.

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No, I actually told them I would consider financing with the dealer if they could beat the rate's I can get on my own. My credit union was offering 2.9% which to me is good enough not to haggle with the dealership over the rate. Also, credit unions typically have better pricing on extend warranties and GAP insurance if that's something you're interested in.

 

As for the shopping, There's several excuses you can give them as to why you cannot come in to speak in person. I've found the ones that work the best are something like:

 

- I'm traveling for work and would like to get this all worked out ahead of time so I can just come in and pick it up when I get back

- My schedule is so busy / too many meetings / working off hours / etc

- or my favorite, i'm coming in from out of town and would like to get this all worked out ahead of time so I can just come in and pick it up when I get there. I don't want to waste my time driving down there if the numbers don't make sense.

 

They're always going to be reluctant to work with someone who doesn't come in person but if you have a good reason you have a shot. My other advise is always try to communicate by email (or even text message if that is an option, but I prefer email) that way you have a paper trail and if they send you the numbers you can shop around.

 

It took me about 2-3 weeks to bounce around and find the best dealer to work with and the best pricing with that last week being all number crunching and working out the details. They were doing everything possible not to put anything in writing but " I work in finance and the end price doesn't make sense to me unless I can see the how we got there. Sorry I'm a numbers guy and this is how it makes sense to me". Once they sent me the numbers we worked a few small details and closed the deal.

 

The key it to be patient, when I first talked to the dealer I purchased from they wanted about $3000 more than I bought for. But when he didn't hear back from me initially, he emailed me and I told him "sorry it seems like there's better pricing out there" and that got him moving on the numbers. His answer was " send me what you got and I'm sure I can match it or do better"

 

Its all a game man, just have to know how to play it. In the end, I'm happy with the price I paid and glad I lined up the financing on my own

 

Were you able to come to a price without them running your credit?

Edited by friedlumpia
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Were you able to come to a price without them running your credit?

Yes, there is no way I would let them run my credit before I know that a deal is in place. They asked if I would fill out a credit application and I told them " there's no need for that right now, I have an 800+ credit score with no issues (late payments, repo's, etc) and I have cash to put down. Lets work out the numbers and once we agree I can fill that credit app out for you". In the end, I never filled it out with them because I went with my own credit union and I know that dealers likely to shop rates so you have several hits on your credit for that one car. My credit union ran my credit which came back with a score of 825, asked me my income and told me that I'm approved without any documentation. Long story short, never let a dealer run your credit until you have a deal in place, in writing! And when I say in writing, it doesn't have to be an actual purchase contract, but anything showing the breakdown and purchase price will do.

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Yes, there is no way I would let them run my credit before I know that a deal is in place. They asked if I would fill out a credit application and I told them " there's no need for that right now, I have an 800+ credit score with no issues (late payments, repo's, etc) and I have cash to put down. Lets work out the numbers and once we agree I can fill that credit app out for you". In the end, I never filled it out with them because I went with my own credit union and I know that dealers likely to shop rates so you have several hits on your credit for that one car. My credit union ran my credit which came back with a score of 825, asked me my income and told me that I'm approved without any documentation. Long story short, never let a dealer run your credit until you have a deal in place, in writing! And when I say in writing, it doesn't have to be an actual purchase contract, but anything showing the breakdown and purchase price will do.

 

Would this strategy work towards a lease deal? Thanks for all your input BTW, very useful

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Would this strategy work towards a lease deal? Thanks for all your input BTW, very useful

I just noticed you're in LV, so am I!

As for the lease I can't really help you there. I've never leased a car myself so I'm not familiar with the process and don't want to give you bad advise. But, I would assume that my method for talking prices would work the same either way there's just different numbers involved. There's also a sales tax credit for trade in's (at least for purchases, I don't know if that applies to leases) Since I know you're local now, I can tell you my experiences......

 

-Henderson : tried talking to a few different people but no one wanted to bother responding to me

-Findlay Chevy off the 215 and Roy Horn - liked my salesman but his manager got involved and insulted my wife so she shut that down really quick! We actually went into this dealer after talking via email, they offered me the truck for $37500 and I said we are just too far off on our numbers. He told us " okay go look, you'll see that no one will do any better and you'll be back" lol sorry but we won't.....ever.

-Ed Bozarth Chevy off the 95 - worked the best deal with this dealer, they started high too, up in the $37000's but after a few weeks they came down

 

Unfortunately, where we will these are the only options. Next closest dealer is in Bullhead City, AZ

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You always determine price parameters first regardless of any other factors (buy, lease, finance, trade, etc.). This is where folks miss the boat when leasing --- they focus on the lease and lose focus on price. As I said before, never allow the dealer any opportunity to tangle things up.

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  • 4 weeks later...

How much should I pay for a 2017 6.2L 4WD Crewcab, Shortbox, LTZ Z71 Redline edition new from a dealer? I have a 2014 5.3L LTZ Z71. I always buy used so not sure how this works. You guys says 20% off is good, so is $48,000 a good price with it being net price $59,945? I couldn't find this configuration anywhere near me also. How do I go about having them build it?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just wondering what a good price for a new 2017 5.3L LT Z71 crew cab with leather seats? Went to a local dealer that had exactly what I wanted with MSRP at $50,450 and I got them down to $41,400 (plus TTL) but I think there is still more on the table to be had.

 

I'll get another GM employee discount on top of that but didn't want to let them know that until I got the best price I could get. I plan to go to a few more dealers in the area and see what they will come down to and possible calling a few out of state places

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Just wondering what a good price for a new 2017 5.3L LT Z71 crew cab with leather seats? Went to a local dealer that had exactly what I wanted with MSRP at $50,450 and I got them down to $41,400 (plus TTL) but I think there is still more on the table to be had.

 

I'll get another GM employee discount on top of that but didn't want to let them know that until I got the best price I could get. I plan to go to a few more dealers in the area and see what they will come down to and possible calling a few out of state places

 

I doubt you'll be able to double dip on discounts. And, I think (without knowing what the deals are currently) that you should see at least 10K in overall discount. Take what you can get from GM and make sure the dealer has some skin in the game as well.

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How much should I pay for a 2017 6.2L 4WD Crewcab, Shortbox, LTZ Z71 Redline edition new from a dealer? I have a 2014 5.3L LTZ Z71. I always buy used so not sure how this works. You guys says 20% off is good, so is $48,000 a good price with it being net price $59,945? I couldn't find this configuration anywhere near me also. How do I go about having them build it?

You can go to a dealer and have them order you a truck the way you want it ( as long as it fits into their packages etc ) and then you get the discounts that are being offered when truck is ready. If you cant work out a deal they sell the truck to somebody else.

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I doubt you'll be able to double dip on discounts. And, I think (without knowing what the deals are currently) that you should see at least 10K in overall discount. Take what you can get from GM and make sure the dealer has some skin in the game as well.

I agree with not being able to double dip on the discount. Employee pricing takes all other incentives off the table. Well at least supplier pricing does. I just went through it a few months ago. 2017 midnight LT. GM had the 17% off sticker which brought the $50450 sticker down to around $41.9.. I then threw my supplier number at them. No dice. But I beat them up good on my 10 year old Tacoma trade.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Loco-diablo
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  • 1 month later...

Not much exciting in rebates this month, and still a few 17's on the lots.  2018's don't get much love yet either, unless you trade in a vehicle where you can theoretically get an extra $3k.

 

Waiting now for the end of the year or next year it seems.....

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