Jump to content

Front end noise

AT/GMC

By AT/GMC
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...
  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ridethedesert
ridethedesert

Does it sound like this?

mookdoc6
mookdoc6

more like this....shhhh....

ridethedesert
ridethedesert

It didn't upload the video for some reason

yamaha0343 Enthusiast

yamaha0343

Posted
Posted
On 4/23/2018 at 3:36 PM, yamaha0343 said:

Bumping this thread, as mine is doing this as well. A single pop/clunk every time I back out of my driveway. Sounds like drivers side front suspension area.

Just to update, finally brought my truck in last week. They found a couple loose bolts on the steering stabilizer that I guess were that way from the factory. 

 

They got me in and on my way in an hour and the noise hasn't returned. Steering feels better than new now.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Linecapt Enthusiast

Linecapt

Posted
Posted

Had a similar clicking sound from left front wheel when the wheel turns past say a certain clock point you'd get 3 clicks, but only when the steering is turned 3/4 or full left or right, front or back travel.  Repair invoice reads "Retorque control arm bolts per PITS5533B", & retorque both the frame crossmember.  Sound is now gone.   

  • Like 1
rsay3 Enthusiast

rsay3

Posted
Posted

Great thread here folks! Tightened my front cross member and got rid of most of the noise I was hearing. Now I only get a clunk/pop on the dirvers side when turning into my driveway and some times when going over a speed bump while turning slightly.

 

Any ideas? I am going to tighten the control arms, is that as easy as just tightening them up? I don't want to screw anything else up while attacking this problem. 

 

 

 

MBSierra17 Enthusiast

MBSierra17

Posted
Posted
On 10/18/2018 at 9:56 AM, rsay3 said:

Great thread here folks! Tightened my front cross member and got rid of most of the noise I was hearing. Now I only get a clunk/pop on the dirvers side when turning into my driveway and some times when going over a speed bump while turning slightly.

 

Any ideas? I am going to tighten the control arms, is that as easy as just tightening them up? I don't want to screw anything else up while attacking this problem. 

 

 

 

I had popping that I think has been isolated to my hood latch. I could somewhat create the sound by turning the wheel while stationary, but could never get it to occur with the hood open while someone else was at the wheel. Got me thinking. Pushed on the top edge of my grill with hood closed and sure enough it popped pretty readily. Must be some flex in the hood. Shot some lithium grease into the latch and onto the latch bar. Haven't heard it since. 

 

While driving, it occurred in similar situations to what you describe. 

rsay3 Enthusiast

rsay3

Posted
Posted

I installed the cognito upper control arms and man what a difference! The popping sound is gone, and the entire front end feels softer on bumps and quieter. Apparently I had more issues with the bushings than I thought. I guess we just get used to things over time and don't realize it.

2016LTCC Enthusiast

2016LTCC

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, rsay3 said:

I installed the cognito upper control arms and man what a difference! The popping sound is gone, and the entire front end feels softer on bumps and quieter. Apparently I had more issues with the bushings than I thought. I guess we just get used to things over time and don't realize it.

Did you put new tires on as well

rsay3 Enthusiast

rsay3

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, 2016LTCC said:

Did you put new tires on as well

Yes sir! Love the Ridge Grapplers! Amazing how quiet they are. I know they are new but still was expecting a lot more noise from them. Ride is fantastic. So Happy with both the tires and upper control arms!

2016LTCC Enthusiast

2016LTCC

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, rsay3 said:

Yes sir! Love the Ridge Grapplers! Amazing how quiet they are. I know they are new but still was expecting a lot more noise from them. Ride is fantastic. So Happy with both the tires and upper control arms!

Those are good tires. Reason I asked if you put new tires on is in my experience the better ride comes from a new set of tires rather than shocks or control arms. Not that they dont help but this is a common misconception.

rsay3 Enthusiast

rsay3

Posted
Posted

I agree, but in my case the bushings were apparently shot. So when I replaced the upper control arms I did drive the truck that day and the next before putting the new tires on. I think the ride soften in that it didn't clunk at every bump anymore. It was silent once again!

 

 

  • 5 months later...
03msc Enthusiast

03msc

Posted
Posted
On 7/7/2017 at 1:00 PM, ridethedesert said:

 

 

It didn't upload the video for some reason

 

Mine has started doing this very thing in the last few days.  Is there is a fix?  Read through the thread but it was difficult to know what solutions were for which issue since it seemed like different sounds were being discussed here...but mine does this consistent noise as I turn the steering left or right. What's the fix? 

  • 3 weeks later...
texasaggies16 Enthusiast

texasaggies16

Posted
Posted
On 4/12/2019 at 3:15 PM, ridethedesert said:

They replaced the whole electric steering assembly. No issues since. 

Are you leveled and is that covered under the powertrain?

Julio13 Enthusiast

Julio13

Posted
Posted

I had same issue they had to replace rack n pinion thankfully I have a buddy at dealer that did it under warranty since I have leveling struts it voids warranty in other dealers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ridethedesert Enthusiast

ridethedesert

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, texasaggies16 said:

Are you leveled and is that covered under the powertrain?

I have the Fox 2.0 shocks in the front. They raised the front 1.5 inches. I had them put on at 14,000 miles and the steering didn’t go bad until 65,000 miles. So I highly doubt the shocks did anything. I had purchased an aftermarket extended warranty when I bought my truck and they have covered everything, no questions asked. I paid $700 for the warranty, to date they’ve paid out $5,000 in repairs. I’m not sure how GM warranties the steering assemblies but I do know their is a TSB floating around telling dealers that the level kits with the shim insert cause problems. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...