1500 with Max Trailing package

Rowxrace · July 19, 2017

I find it very interesting that even though it's rated for around 11 and 1/2 to 12000 pounds, and it states on their website that it will comfortably tow that waight, that people are still apprehensive of pulling that much weight with a 1500.

What truly is the difference between a 2500 and a 1500 with Max towing package? Is it the thickness and rigidity of the frame, along with thicker Springs? What makes a 2500 more sturdier feeling than a 1500?

cmysstailights · July 19, 2017

I find it very interesting that even though it's rated for around 11 and 1/2 to 12000 pounds, and it states on their website that it will comfortably tow that waight, that people are still apprehensive of pulling that much weight with a 1500.

What truly is the difference between a 2500 and a 1500 with Max towing package? Is it the thickness and rigidity of the frame, along with thicker Springs? What makes a 2500 more sturdier feeling than a 1500?

Heavier truck, bigger breaks, different tires, different suspension

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Krusty · July 19, 2017

Heavier truck, bigger breaks, different tires, different suspension

For example my current 2017 Max Trailering weighs 6,000 at the local gravel/cement company scales. The 2007 Duramax weighed 7,300 on those same scales......... 1,300 lb worth of heavier duty rig...........

cmysstailights · July 19, 2017

For example my current 2017 Max Trailering weighs 6,000 at the local gravel/cement company scales. The 2007 Duramax weighed 7,300 on those same scales......... 1,300 lb worth of heavier duty rig...........

Imo when towing 10k+ yes, the added weight is stiffer frame, heavier suspension components, bigger brakes. Could you upgrade the suspension on a 1500 yes, i did air bags next is sway bar. Then brake upgrade

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Lgetz · July 19, 2017

If you are pulling 6000+ pounds regularly than by all means buy a 2500HD.

Borrowed my buddy's 2012 LML to tow a Hummer H2 about 400+ miles and it handled with no problem. Combined weight of vehicle and trailer was around 8200 pounds. I didn't feel comfortable pulling that much weight with the All Terrain 6.2 plus I haven't bothered to install my Tekonsha P3 brake controller since I seldom pull now. Brakes on the LML are stouter plus tow mode combined with exhaust brake and integrated brake controller make stopping a breeze.

Maintained 70 mph going against a headwind like nothing. My truck would have struggled just to maintain 60 under those conditions.

For shorter 150-200 mile, infrequent trips with a properly equipped NHT 1500, weight distribution hitch and maintaining a reasonable speed you should be okay towing 9000-9500 pounds. My 6.2 towed a 5100 pound car and trailer like nothing for 350+ miles and easily maintained 70 mph.

brclark82 · July 19, 2017

When I had my 6.2L NHT I thought people were crazy for telling me to go bigger for my 9k trailer, I mean why advertise 12k if it can't tow it right? Well, I CAN tow it, I just wasnt comfortable with it when going further than a short trip. Night/day difference with my 2500 and that isn't even taking into account the engine differences.

Rowxrace · July 20, 2017

I am coming from a 2004 2500 Duramax diesel. I'm highly considering upgrading to a 2017 Silverado 1500 with the max towing package.

I feel that if I go with the bigger brake option that Chevrolet offers, along with bigger tires example coyote rated, and a proper weight distribution hitch for the trailer, I should do just fine. My Towing is going to be limited to possibly four to five times a year anyway. It's a heavy trailer but it's not going to be towed that much. I feel the only thing I'm missing is a thicker stiffer frame.

All in all I think I would do well with the new 1500 with upgraded brakes and towing package better shocks along with the heavy duty leaf springs. I might consider airbags also.

Just for information, the trailer is a 25ft attitude. It states the trailer is about 6500 lb dry with max weight being up to 11000 lb

Spurshot · July 20, 2017

I think you can do it with upgrades to a 1500. Tires would be at the top of my list. I've seen a lot of rear tire blown sidewalls from a trailer squirming around. I would run LR E tires for safety. The suspension upgrades will help. bigger brakes will be good. That just leaves you with lighter driveline and frame than the 2500. Seems like an expensive way to go. I think a 2500 is only about the cost of the front brake upgrade, above a 1500.

powerhaulic · July 20, 2017

The brakes on my Max tow are fine.

I tow something on a weekly basis, and tow 9000lb 5-6000mi each year.

I have no interest driving a 2500 6.0 or spending the money for a diesel.

One of my best friends has a High country 2500 diesel, nice truck but i prefer mine.

The only towing upgrades are Michelin Defenders, and Bilstein rear shocks.

carthman · July 20, 2017

Don't forget payload....payload limit is usually hit way before tow rating...

Rowxrace · July 21, 2017

In regards to payload, in the future if I upgraded to airbags along with the stiffer Springs that already come with the max towing package and a good weight distribution hitch would that work to help with payload?

Jimmyjim · July 21, 2017

In my opinion if you are going to tow at the upper limits of the NHT, the truck needs new shocks.

I pull a 8000# toy hauler, fully loaded and the stock shocks were terrible. Especially the front coil overs.

Bilstein advised against the 5100's on the NHT, so I had FOX 2.0's installed all the way around.

Dramatic improvement..

Edit...

I am also using a equalizer WD hitch.

Krusty · July 21, 2017

In my opinion if you are going to tow at the upper limits of the NHT, the truck needs new shocks.

I pull a 8000# toy hauler, fully loaded and the stock shocks were terrible. Especially the front coil overs.

Bilstein advised against the 5100's on the NHT, so I had FOX 2.0's installed all the way around.

Dramatic improvement..

Are you using an equalizer hitch?

Where did you get your Fox 2.0's? The online retailer links on the Fox site only half work - and the links that do work don't list the 2.0 .............

http://www.ridefox.com/buy.php?m=truck&ref=product-sidebar

cmysstailights · July 21, 2017

In regards to payload, in the future if I upgraded to airbags along with the stiffer Springs that already come with the max towing package and a good weight distribution hitch would that work to help with payload?

I added air bags to my truck. Had a payload of roughly about 3,000 pounds. Truck drove fine was heavy took a little in a longer to stop i took my time. The wear and tear on the drivetrain probably would affect it more if you did it constantly.

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FreeAmerican · July 21, 2017

Hopefully I can save you some heart ache.

I just went through all of this. 2015 GMC 1500 and now I am in a Chevy 2500hd.

First off, unless you have the 8 ft bed, you are limited but fuel capacity. I don't know if you tow through any mountains, but if you do, your burn rate runs up quickly. With my diesel I am burning an 1/8th of a tank where I used to burn 1/2 or more. Stopping multiple times on a longer trip becomes a pain.

A 3/4 with either the 6.0 or the 6.6 is better through the mountains. The 6.0 you can wind it up and hold it there going up a moutain. That is what it is made for.

Then when you come down the other side the brakes come into play. You need to pull a wheel on a 3/4 and look at the front breaks. Massive rotors, even compared to the sport breaks you can add on to the 1500. Add to that the diesel exhaust brake.

Then the suspension, The heavier axle and springs on the rear, and I like the torsion bars suspension on the front for towing. I upgraded my front sway bar and added bags to the rear of my 1500, and that helped but still no comparison to the CONTROL along with the capacity of the 3/4

You are starting off with E rated tires on rims and suspension designed for E rated tires.

Then there is the size and weight. Its just physics, 10k lb trailer is going to move a 5k truck more than a 6k truck. And there is a relationship between the length of the trailer and the truck. Again you have to move to an 8 ft bed 1500 to just start competing with the 2500.

My trailer is 31 ft and weighs 7200 lb in travel trim. Both my truck dealership and my trailer dealership said it would do the job. And it did it, but I had some very tense moments where I could have gotten into a lot of trouble from speeding semi trucks, unexpected wind and weather, terrible drivers in traffic around me.

My 1500 had plenty of power and I am towing less than 80% of my tow limit. I had a great hitch (equalizer) and took care with loading and balancing everything. I did some power upgrades, suspension upgrades and yes, the 1500 would do it, but not well, and that was a 7200 lb trailer.

The 2500 is designed to pull heavy from the get go. With my 2500 diesel I don't get pushed around by wind and traffic like the 1500. I have a cushion if I need to take a long a golf cart, atv, firewood..

I honestly feel the ratings on the 1500 are misleading and a little bit dangerous. If I were pulling 10k lb of pipe on a flatbed that didn't have the sail area as a 30+ ft trailer, I wouldn't be as worried, but with a travel trailer there are other forces you have to account for and I will never pull a travel trailer around that size with anything less than a 3/4.