Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bought a new 2017 Silverado 2500 6.0L and service power steering came across dash. Took to dealer and they said had to replace power steering control module. Changed then they said it wasn't communicating with steering box and had to replace that. Changed that then said steering module wasn't working and had to change that again. Changed and still not working. Also having infotainment issue and they said it was related and had to check wiring harness. They also found a coolant leak while messing with steering issue. Truck has 800 miles and been at the dealership a week now. Anyone else having these issues? Going to try to get them to buy back.

  • Like 2
  • Sad 1
Posted

Every time service power steering light came on the wheel would jerk a bit. Coolant leak was a loose clamp on hose from radiator to pump

Posted

They now say the steering module needs to be programmed but they come programmed. Chevy engineers now involved. Contacted dealer about repurchase and they said were not to that point yet. Contacted chevy again and they are escalating the issue to a senior advisor. Getting tired of waiting

Posted

damn, just brought home the same truck (2017 2500HD, 6.0). almost 700 miles on motor and so far no issues. Hope like hell yours is just one of those quirks and they get it straightened out.

  • Like 1
Posted

Every time service power steering light came on the wheel would jerk a bit. Coolant leak was a loose clamp on hose from radiator to pump

Thanks I will check that. Smell coolant now and then and the dealer can't find a leak

Posted

Control module need to be programmed for my truck and dealer couldn't over write the program that came on it from the factory

Posted

Hang in there, man. Let the dealer try to figure it out, there's a million electrical sesors and related systems all tied together in the computers. Who knows where this gremlin came from. Of course, do what you want, interested in results, thanks.

Posted

While inconvenient, give them time to make it right. Sounds like they did at. I guess no one remembers buying a new car in the 70's and headaches that followed. Having the truck in for a week or two is a bit of a drag but not unreasonable so long as they provide a loaner or rental. I guess we consumers expect a new product, even cars, to be issue free and if they aren't, we expect to be able to take it back for a refund like taking back a defective coffee maker to Wal-Mart. Yah, it's a drag to spend that kind of money and have defects, but it happens. Go buy a new RV and see how many trips you have to make back to the dealer to get things fixed.

Posted

I had this same exact thing happen to me on my 2017 GMC sierra 3500 at 2000 miles. They replace the electric steering pump along with the module. The problem was that the electric steering unit had a short in the wiring where the harness plugs into the steering. They were able to wiggle the wires and rip them right out. upon returning the vehicle to me the steering wheel if off by 5 degrees to the right and I am no longer to hold the steering wheel straight it wants to wonder right or left. Trying to get the dealer to buy mine back as well.

Posted

Search this forum - there are tons of threads about this. The previous fix was to check the G218 ground near the front drivers-side speaker. After a bunch of us complained to NHTSA they finally forced GM to recall them. They just announced the recall late last week and GM doesn't have the fix released yet but basically they will reprogram the software. We'll see if it works.

 

Search for the G218 instructions. Once I did that it took care of most of my electrical problems.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm the original poster of this thread; I'm 85,000 miles now with no transmission issues after they did the fluid change without filter at 45,000.  I plan on a fluid change AND filter in another 5,000 miles and agree with you on staying to witness what happens if possible.  Ideally I would have done the filter at 45,000 too, but my original dealer was incompetent.  I've since moved on and get service done by another more reputable dealer, so I'm hopeful they follow the correct procedure at 90,000.  
    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...