Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

So I got a l86 and got the notorious P050d code. This only happens when it’s in dual pulse mode on the cold start.  I’m getting prepared to pull the injectors and get the part number to order. I’ve seen several videos and guides of people installing these so I know basically what to do but have a couple questions on little things. GM does not say to lube or put anything on the seals of the new injectors. I’ve seen where people have and people haven’t. Any advice on this? Also I already have the too high pressure lines. I don’t need to replace the 3rd low pressure line right?  Is this somthing you’d replace anyway. I’m going to do all 8 injectors at once. 

Edited by Dakota Murphy
  • Dakota Murphy changed the title to Injector replacement Help 2017 6.2l L86
Posted
1 hour ago, Dakota Murphy said:

So I got a l86 and got the notorious P050d code. This only happens when it’s in dual pulse mode on the cold start.  I’m getting prepared to pull the injectors and get the part number to order. I’ve seen several videos and guides of people installing these so I know basically what to do but have a couple questions on little things. GM does not say to lube or put anything on the seals of the new injectors. I’ve seen where people have and people haven’t. Any advice on this? Also I already have the too high pressure lines. I don’t need to replace the 3rd low pressure line right?  Is this somthing you’d replace anyway. I’m going to do all 8 injectors at once. 

 

 

6.2 GM suggests you match the old p/n flow as the rails are set up for balance from the factory.  Low, nominal and high.  However, that said, if you can't verify what flow they are, they say to order 8 nominal flow injectors.  Current # for those is 19420316.

 

"Note: If for some reason the injector has been removed, discarded or have all injectors on the bench and are not sure which one goes where, then the best thing to do is order the “NOM FLOW” injector part number as shown above, in the quantity you need, and install them in the engine. In this case you would order what is shown below.

When fuel rails are assembled at the supplier, the injector installed in the fuel rail can be nominal, low or high flow injectors. This is done to try and get an even balance or flow across the fuel rail for emission requirements. Also, the replacement injector kits will be a different part number than the injectors, and also that a kit may contain one of several different injector part numbers."

 

 

Do NOT lubricate the tip seals.  The only thing GM calls to lube with anything is the "socket" on the rail where each injector sits, and to only lightly lubricate with clean engine oil.  There is clear warnings on the rail install and removal instructions to not lubricate the injector tip seals.  

 

Pipes.  You just need the two in the valley.  The pipe from the pump to the "S" center pipe, and the "S" center pipe itself as well.  The third line is only if you are planning to remove or replace the high pressure pump which is not necessary for injector replacement.  

Posted (edited)

Thank you for the finer details. I knew about the nominal flow if they couldn’t be matched but wasn’t gonna do anything until pulling and seeing. The lube was the main question and I seen where people had, but I wanted to know what exactly gm wanted there. I would think the lube would actually attract more carbon than without it over time. This helps a bunch thanks again! 
 

10 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

6.2 GM suggests you match the old p/n flow as the rails are set up for balance from the factory.  Low, nominal and high.  However, that said, if you can't verify what flow they are, they say to order 8 nominal flow injectors.  Current # for those is 19420316.

 

"Note: If for some reason the injector has been removed, discarded or have all injectors on the bench and are not sure which one goes where, then the best thing to do is order the “NOM FLOW” injector part number as shown above, in the quantity you need, and install them in the engine. In this case you would order what is shown below.

When fuel rails are assembled at the supplier, the injector installed in the fuel rail can be nominal, low or high flow injectors. This is done to try and get an even balance or flow across the fuel rail for emission requirements. Also, the replacement injector kits will be a different part number than the injectors, and also that a kit may contain one of several different injector part numbers."

 

 

Do NOT lubricate the tip seals.  The only thing GM calls to lube with anything is the "socket" on the rail where each injector sits, and to only lightly lubricate with clean engine oil.  There is clear warnings on the rail install and removal instructions to not lubricate the injector tip seals.  

 

Pipes.  You just need the two in the valley.  The pipe from the pump to the "S" center pipe, and the "S" center pipe itself as well.  The third line is only if you are planning to remove or replace the high pressure pump which is not necessary for injector replacement.  

 

Edited by Dakota Murphy
Posted

I also suggest cleaning the injector bores very well, I did mine, although they say no lube on the seals, I did put a "Tiny" bit of the 0W20 on them just to barely wet them. I didn't have any issues, just make sure you clean the bores, I used intake cleaner, and a nylon bore brush, then flushed with Brake Cleaner and dry. If for some reason one or more of the Teflon seals are damaged on new injectors (it happened to me) be sure to watch videos on how to install them, very critical!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Breaking News!    I'm going to tell you that I'm going to tell you.  Then I'm going to tell you what I'm going to tell you.  Then I'm going to tell you.  Then I'm going to tell you what I told  you.  Then I'm going to tell you what I'm about to tell you on the other side of the break.  Then we're going to break. Then I'm not going to tell you what I told you I was going to tell you.  But I'll tell you something else that is Breaking News just coming to the desk that everyone reported on yesterday.  Then I'll tease a human interest telling I'll get to on the other side of a larger break. Then I'll tell you one item in 20 seconds and go back to an even longer break. Longest break of the night.  Then I'll tell you a fluff piece that takes 10 seconds and sign off into a three minute break while you wait for the next 30 minutes of rinse and repeat on the local news.    In al you'll get about 12 minutes of something, 5 minutes of which is worth hearing in a 30 minute show and 18 minutes of advertising at a sound level twice as loud as the news.    Of course you can switch to cable news and hear 12 different people tell the same four stories in much the same format as the Network News for 20 hours of which the majority will be advertising.  And four hours of late night Specials about things you wonder why you stayed up to listen to. Half of which will be repeats.....   OR you can go for a drive  
    • Did you ever figure this out? My 2022 Trail Boss, and now my 2026 LT did this from time to time.  I believe it was more connected to Android Auto and my phone being the cause. Maybe try going for a drive, sans cell phone.... and see if it happens? 
    • I have a 2026 Silverado LT, the non bose as well.  Upgrading the door speakers is pretty straightforward. You could honestly go to walmart, or Auto Zone/ O Reilly and get a set of 6x9s for the front, and 6.5s for the rear. You do also have to get some adapters for each, but they are like $10 a pair on Amazon. Then some plug and play harnesses that are about $10 a pair on Amazon as well.  And I would also suggest a 10 pack of the Amazon Basics sound deadening. Slap that all around the speakers and on the open metal of the inside of the door. And your golden.   I am currently doing this with my Silverado. Although I am having a bit of trouble because I am snooby I guess and bought some Alpine S2 S69c's which are 2 way components and I am having to wire from the door up to the dash....  Having never installed speakers before, its taking me just a bit to get everything correct. But if you dont buy expensive component speakers, and just some $40-$50 door speakers. You will DRASTICALLY improve the sound over these stock paper cone junk speakers. I thought my Silverado had an issue with the radio/ sound for a while.  Come to find out.  The stock speakers are just THAT SH*TTY   I cannot wait to have some decent sound in the truck   What did you end up doing?
    • Its all automatic based on yaw sensor data.  If enough incline is detected, it engages.   My recommendation though would be to disengage it before driving off and not let it auto disengage by touching the gas pedal.  The HD trucks use the same setup as prior years, the drum in hat park brake.  But now with an electric actuator.  If you drive off repeatedly over time, it can torque the park brake shoes and can also prematurely wear them out.           Electric console shift will set the park brake on flat ground too.  Pretty sure they've got it programmed to activate every time.  
    • Anyone install a a supercharger on your 6.6L L8T? Talk to me...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...