Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Long story short, I think I need to buy springs but don't know which ones to select. RockAuto has 27 different "GM Genuine" coil springs for a 2017 GMC Sierra with 6.2L engine.

 

I am wanting to match the spring rate of a 2017 GMC Sierra SLT CrewCab 4x4 6.2L.  If someone has this exact truck, maybe they could post their RPO codes please? Or maybe, hopefully, someone has a better idea to get this info?

 

The long story (if you care to read on) is I have the 2017 GMC Sierra Denali CrewCab 4x4 6.2L with MagneRide shocks & struts.  The truck has just under 60K miles and the ride quality has degraded over time. I know at least 1 shock is bad due to it leaking, no codes have been thrown on the dash.  Due to the mileage and the expense of the MagneRide shocks, I am pursuing replacing them all with conventional shocks and at the same time, getting my truck level.

 

Several options on the market claiming great ride quality but I'm leaning towards the Bilstein 5100's that I've had on past trucks or the Eibach ProTruck kit E80-23-006-02-22 for $704 that sound great too but I'll need to buy strut mounts and deal with compressing those beasts (others have had issues). Or possibly the RoughCountry E2 loaded struts #501029 - inexpensive but not sure on ride quality + reliability or maybe even Fox 2.0's if I can find them for a good price.  I would even consider the Belltech coilovers #15102 for $650 /pair if I could find someone running them with a positive review.

 

If/since my MagneRide coil springs aren't the same/compatible, with some kits including the Bilsteins, I'll need to buy new springs, which isn't a huge deal since they aren't too expensive - some as low as $34.  I know Eibach's kit comes with springs included but it appears they have a higher spring rate for trucks with extra weight on the front of their trucks.

 

Of course, I'll need to deal with the MRC electronics, cheapest I've found is https://www.magdelete.com/collections/sierra-1500 and I may end up just getting the entire kit from him but don't know which springs are used with his either...

 

It does make some sense that there are so many different GM Genuine coil springs due to there being 3 different engines available, 3 different cab sizes and 4 different trims...

 

I do zero off-roading or towing and am just looking for a nice street ride with a leveled look.

 

I welcome input on anything I've said but I'm mainly looking for the proper conventional OEM spring that will match best with my truck.

 

Edited by 17Sierra1500
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

For the 3 people that are reading this, I decided to take a chance and purchase & install the Rancho RS9000 rear shocks and Quick Struts to match.  The truck now sits level and rides better than when I first bought it 3 years ago, even wife agrees.  No regerts.

 

Still have the dash error for Suspension Systems needs service but there are proven options for that once it annoys me enough to spend the cash.

 

I purchased the RS9000 rears and Quick Struts from shocksurplus.com for a grand total of $610.  Best mod to date.

Edited by 17Sierra1500
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Although I don't have the magnaride like you, I too am going to replace the struts and have decided to go with the Rancho Quick Struts for the front. I did just put the Bilstein 4600 on the rear and do notice an improvement in ride quality so I might as well tackle the fronts as well. I thought about the Bilstein 5100 for front but didnt want to have to deal with swapping the springs and the Ranchos come as a complete unit, ready to install. Good to see that you like the Ranchos on the front. I have the Rough Country spacer on front to level but would like to ditch that and level with struts alone. I did find an Amazon Warehouse deal on the Ranchos and decided to take a chance. I will have them next week so we shall see...

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 1
Posted

Have you played around with the adjustment knob on the Ranchos and what number are you using?

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Thanks for replying Mike!  Good to know at least someone is following along = )  I started at 4 and it was too floaty.  Then went to 8 and it was tad firm for my taste. Settled back at 6 and am pretty happy. On a side-note, after putting in the Ranch Quick struts, the rear was just a tad lower than the front, about 1/2" to 3/4" so I struggled with how to resolve that. I thought long and hard about replacing the factory block with a taller one vs the Deaver mini-pack vs the RoadActive Suspension (RAS) springs.  Ended up going with the RAS even though it was the most expensive option at ~$475 but easiest to install and am happy with those too.  They raised the rear just enough so I'm dead level plus more controlled cornering with less body roll and I think it negated what I believe was a bit of axle wrap.

Edited by 17Sierra1500
  • Like 1
Posted

I'm still experimenting with the Rancho Quicklift numbers. I started at 6 which I thought seemed a bit stiff. Then 5, then 4, etc... I am now running 2 and mostly like the ride. I did notice the kind of floaty feeling you mentioned but its not too bad IMHO. It has a cushy almost original OEM feel like when the stock Ranchos were still new. It does have a tendency to drop hard when going over larger irregularities on pavement. It's kind of hard to describe but seems like damping at 2 is a bit diminished.

 

Like I mentioned, I have the Bilstein 4600 rear shocks. But I also have AirLift bags on the rear as well. The front and rear seem to be level and pretty much what I had with the Rough Country Level kit. I did try bumping up the psi in the AirLift bags form the minimum of 5psi to 10psi and that seemed to help with that floaty feeling. I may try going back up to maybe 4 or 5 with the AirLift bags at 10psi and see what effect that has.

 

The big test will come on my next trip pulling my toyhauler. It's a 25' and when fully loaded along with my trike, it probably comes in around 6200lbs. I'm hoping this will be a winning combination and give me some decent control when traveling.

 

Just one other thing, I found info from several sources that recommended setting the Quicklift knob to 1, remove it, pack it with grease, and reinstall the knob. It's supposed to help prevent corrosion in there and help keep the knob from freezing up. I did this and although a bit early to tell, it's very easy to adjust it. 

Posted

if you do a search on the forum , Mr. Grumpy did an exhaustive research and testing on building the best suspension set up for factory trucks.  give him a PM if you want more details. i think he spent about $3-4k on his truck set up

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/28/2022 at 8:02 PM, mikeyk101 said:

I'm still experimenting with the Rancho Quicklift numbers. I started at 6 which I thought seemed a bit stiff. Then 5, then 4, etc... I am now running 2 and mostly like the ride. I did notice the kind of floaty feeling you mentioned but its not too bad IMHO. It has a cushy almost original OEM feel like when the stock Ranchos were still new. It does have a tendency to drop hard when going over larger irregularities on pavement. It's kind of hard to describe but seems like damping at 2 is a bit diminished.

 

Like I mentioned, I have the Bilstein 4600 rear shocks. But I also have AirLift bags on the rear as well. The front and rear seem to be level and pretty much what I had with the Rough Country Level kit. I did try bumping up the psi in the AirLift bags form the minimum of 5psi to 10psi and that seemed to help with that floaty feeling. I may try going back up to maybe 4 or 5 with the AirLift bags at 10psi and see what effect that has.

 

The big test will come on my next trip pulling my toyhauler. It's a 25' and when fully loaded along with my trike, it probably comes in around 6200lbs. I'm hoping this will be a winning combination and give me some decent control when traveling.

 

Just one other thing, I found info from several sources that recommended setting the Quicklift knob to 1, remove it, pack it with grease, and reinstall the knob. It's supposed to help prevent corrosion in there and help keep the knob from freezing up. I did this and although a bit early to tell, it's very easy to adjust it. 

Great tip on greasing the knobs! 3 out of 4 of mine are very difficult to rotate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • Same here, first I bought a few filters to get me going right after I bought my truck to do some short distance initial oil changes, then realized I could buy a case lot for less as they drop the price if filters or trans oil etc is bought by the un opened case lot as well as the discount for buying the vehicle there. So I have filters for a while but its good to know going forward, knowing to expect it to be a different part number and looking filter at the dealer and not be confused over it and think they are handing me the wrong part.
    • Saw Inglewood was in the National New last night for hail. Allot of hail. front end loader level hail. 😱
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...