Jump to content

2016 Silverado 1500 LT - Totaled - 2nd TRUCK!


MRob

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just Totaled my beautiful 2016 silverado today. Yes, it was a BEAUTIFUL awesome looking truck!! I put a lot of work and a lot of $$ into many many nice upgrades and features to this truck and had just gotten it to where I wanted it. And all for WHAT? All for this CRASH! Gone!

 

All for pretty much nothing... the insurance company and all that will NOT care about the lift, tires, wheels, Exhaust, upgrades, flares, running boards, blacked out emblems, interior work etc. It makes me sick to my stomach. They may help a LITTLE, but not near what all I put into it. But it is what it is.

 

I WILL say, however that as I am a bit older now... the road noise from the tires coupled with the exhaust was getting to me a bit. Not to mention that the "ride" is not as smooth as I would like it now. I get into this new rental truck and it rides SO nice compared to my truck. It's cool and it sounds bad ass and looks awesome, but I don't think I'm going to do all of that again.

 

I want a nice CLEAN look on the next truck. I'm thinking just do a level, upgrade to a LITTLE bit beefier/wider/bigger tires, leave the stock wheels alone... no exhaust... black out the emblems (inexpensive, fun to do and it looks really cool to me). Running boards already on it... and be done! No color matched flares or any of that mess, that shit just gets scratched up anyway.... ugh!

 

I'm thinking this will keep it clean, the "ride" will be nice and not jacked with, my gas milage should stay near where it was designed to be, speedometer is not jacked with, and I can hear myself THINK while driving :). Also, settle for no less than a Bose or good system in it and I"m done!

 

Any ideas? Thoughts? Tire suggestions going this route?

post-149994-0-64275400-1502515734_thumb.jpg

post-149994-0-84268900-1502515747_thumb.jpg

post-149994-0-64275400-1502515734_thumb.jpg

post-149994-0-84268900-1502515747_thumb.jpg

post-149994-0-64275400-1502515734_thumb.jpg

post-149994-0-84268900-1502515747_thumb.jpg

post-149994-0-64275400-1502515734_thumb.jpg

post-149994-0-84268900-1502515747_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 39
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Damn, tough one to swallow there. I'm assuming you're okay...glad to hear that. Sucks though.

Personally, I like stock except for matching the tint. Easier to "blend" in.

Posted

My last truck I went the same route as your totaled one. Headers,tune,exhaust,stall yada....The new one I have a level and and a 22" Magnaflow muffler. Still quite in the cab but sounds like a truck without being obnoxiously loud.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Posted

If insurance isn't crediting you with any of the add-ons, can you remove those that are salvageable?

 

Otherwise, I'm older already and have done quite a few upgrades, but not really modifications. Ok, a couple - level, very moderate AT tires, driver side grab handle...

 

But these trucks are the most attractive offering in the US.* Little or nothing I can do to improve the appearance. I can customize to my own preferences, but I think you're on a good track. Sorry for your accident.

 

 

* every once in a while I see an F150 in a very specific color, suspension set up, trim package and think damn...

Posted

Sorry about your accident and I hope nobody was hurt. This serves as an example how things can dramatically change in an instant. It sounds like you've good plans for your future truck!

Posted

Your luck is as bad as mine. It could be raining vaginas and I'd get hit in the head with a dick. Glad you're ok. Oh... and you are on the right track for your next truck. My next one will be a quiet, smooth riding semi-stocker.

Posted

Your luck is as bad as mine. It could be raining vaginas and I'd get hit in the head with a dick

LOL :driving:

Posted

Two new wrecked trucks and thousands of dollars in 'mods' down the toilet...................have you considered a bicycle or are you going for three strikes?

Posted

Thank you ALL! You guys are great.... I greatly appreciate your advice and input.

 

No one was hurt in this mess so that is a huge blessing. That truck literally saved my life that's for sure! I'm in medical sales and the price of once small piece of life saving equipment can easily be into the hundreds of thousands of dollars! That 40K truck saved my life very literally. When I think about it in those terms, it was worth every penny. Again, thank you all for your genuine concern.

 

I like the idea of the Magnaflow muffler and things still being quiet in the cab! I will think about that one.

 

My absolute favorite comment though.... and I am STILL laughing out loud... is:

It could be raining vaginas and I'd get hit in the head with a dick

 

 

And yes, I have also considered a bicycle!!!!

Posted

No nav...THAT was always a huge contention of mine with this truck! No nav no Bose... that blew BAD!

 

It MAY not be totaled... the more I look at the pictures I think it may be repairable! Although, from what I hear each airbag is like

2 grand to put back...there's 10 grand off the top! not to mention the body work, front end work and engine work!

Posted

My wife's Volvo XC60 had the same kind of hit last November (guy in a '15 F250 SD) ran red light, hit her at 45-50 mph, never hit the brakes. Car was totaled. I'm with you on the clean look. My '15 DC has 1" front end lift and changed tires to 275/65-18 Michelin Defender LTX. Drives great, quiet, handles predictable in all weather. Only mods are to the sound system, Alpine Ty-R speakers and 45x4 Alpine amp. Had a sub wired in, don't even need it with the Ty-R's. Factory Bose would be nice as would be the 6.2L, at this point though, doubtful I will go on the hooks for another $30,000 over the current value of my '15 for a new truck.

Posted

Insurance will pay for add ons but you have to add them to your policy first. Something to think about on your next truck

Posted

MRob sorry for your truck and glad no one was seriously injured. Your truck was nicely equipped. Without more pictures seems the only salvageable parts are your toolbox and a couple of wheels/tires. Evaluate where you stand once your insurance company lets you know what they decide. Don't think I would want that truck after it was repaired. Buy the best equipped truck and get the options you want. Put on a 1.5-2 inch level kit and some larger tires on the stock wheels. Have a 22 inch Magnaflow muffler and think it sounds pretty good. Certainly won't break the bank or have your neighbors cursing at you or poisoning your dog.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...