Jump to content

Dirt Road Inhabitants / Off-roaders....Frame Maintenance


Recommended Posts

Posted

Fellas, how are you maintaining your wax coated frames??? Every weekend I'm up north tearing down dirt roads, two tracks, and fields of heavy brush. My tacky wax frame has been a bitch to keep clean. Even worse, any dense brush or tree branches, gravel, etc scratches the coating off my frame. I've already touched it up 3 times with special spray paint in the 9 months I've owned the truck. It's very annoying and high maintenance. I need my truck to last, hoping at least 20 years, but the frame coating is definitely the achillies heel. I love my truck otherwise but will never buy another wax coated frame again.

 

What are you guys doing to keep it maintained? Will it eventually dry and harden?

 

Thanks

Posted

Don't know if you have much of a choice on the coating. At least not with GM. It sucks to keep clean, I just keep an eye on mine and fill any spots with undercoating.

 

And no it will never harden, it will be tacky like that for years. It gets a little better, but I've worked on early 2000's models and the stuff is still tacky

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

That wax shouldn't dry/harden...touching it up is the only way. Unless you want to do a frame-off and redo with something else like POR.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

And I know what you're talking about, even high field grass will wear the coating off where ever it gets in contact with the grass...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

I have used this method to protect metal on equipment. Easy to apply but must be redone. CHEAP.

I take clean motor oil and mix it with paint thinner to reduce the viscosity so I can spray it with a garden sprayer.

Sprayed the underside of my mower with it also. Made removing stuck grass easy.

Spray things on dirt or on a mat, plastic,etc. :happysad:

Posted

I've off-road my pickups for work for 40 years. The grasses and small brush that removes undercoating products will keep your frame clean. If you stop off roading you can respray the frame with rubberized undercoating. But never fear your frame may get flaky rust, rust holes and breaking is very rare. Just walk through a salvage yard.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I just hit my exposed metal with black spray paint. Not much you can do to clean the dirt off the soft coating. I hate it

 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

Posted

I plan on removing the undercoating of the front frame under the engine where most of my rust develops and spray it with black rustoleum and clear coat it. That's what the pre-runner trucks do. Black gloss or matte paint

Posted

The frame coating is available straight from the GM supplier, Daubert. On my 2013 Sierra, I spent a few minutes annually with a putty knife, and a can of Dauberts Nox-Rust® X-121B. When I traded the truck a couple of weeks ago, the undercarriage and frame appeared as new. This was after 4 harsh, salty winters, and regular travel on dirt roads. I used Fluid-Film on the floors, and all other painted metal parts. Again, ZERO surface rust, let alone rot. I shall continue to do this with my brand new 2017. The frame coating on this one looks great right out of the gate.

GM used to sell the X-121B through their parts counters under part number 12346501, but it has been discontinued for about 2 years. Here is the link for the Dauberts:

 

https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b

Posted

I've off-road my pickups for work for 40 years. The grasses and small brush that removes undercoating products will keep your frame clean. If you stop off roading you can respray the frame with rubberized undercoating. But never fear your frame may get flaky rust, rust holes and breaking is very rare. Just walk through a salvage yard.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I've seen a couple of 1999-2000 GMT-800 regular cab 8' box 4x4 frames break where the C channel and box section meet. I think the 18 salty winters weakened the frames for them to break.

Posted

You guys may just be a little to worried about your frames. Surface rust is not a big deal and I have never seen a new model truck have a frame that has rusted through. My 2012 ford work truck has a painted frame but 5 years later it is covered in surface rust but is doing fine.

Posted

You guys may just be a little to worried about your frames. Surface rust is not a big deal and I have never seen a new model truck have a frame that has rusted through. My 2012 ford work truck has a painted frame but 5 years later it is covered in surface rust but is doing fine.

Perhaps a few winters in Southern Ontario, or Michigan/New York may change your perception about that......? :)

Posted

You guys may just be a little to worried about your frames. Surface rust is not a big deal and I have never seen a new model truck have a frame that has rusted through. My 2012 ford work truck has a painted frame but 5 years later it is covered in surface rust but is doing fine.

Keeping a handle on the condition of my undercarriage rewarded me with an excellent trade in value, which put me in a far more well equipped, and therefore expensive truck than what I had. My old truck was so well liked by the salesman, he bought it immediately for himself. It was a testament to my weekly washing, bimonthly waxing, and annual undercarriage maintenance.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...