Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

First of all, how do you search the forums? I can't see an option to do so.

 

Now, on to my topic of concern.

 

My truck (2014 GMC Sierra SLT) was built in February of 2014, purchased by an owner who had it for a couple months and decided he wanted a diesel truck instead. Basically he took his truck and reordered the same truck but a 3/4 ton with diesel and traded this one in. I purchased it in July of 2014 with only 5,000 miles on it. Got a pretty good deal too. I love everything about this truck but the payment...

 

And the frame now...

 

When I checked out the truck before purchasing I even got underneath and checked out the undercarriage. Still looked clean and new. When I was signing the papers they offered me an appearance warranty which would cover paint issues, damage to the interior, rust, etc. They offered me a good deal on that so I bit on that as well. Part of that package included an undercoating and protective spray coating of the frame and suspension components. Said it would significantly delay the onset of your typical surface rust on the frame.

 

Check out these pics:

 

CyQnXag.jpg

nr509DD.jpg

yCQG3DP.jpg

O353s8s.jpg

m6qEPVU.jpg

wNB9zEY.jpg

q20k7DM.jpg

MYVHOvj.jpg

1HP9b3P.jpg

1l98IiZ.jpg

mZ85L7F.jpg

o3AbVV5.jpg

(this should be the maximum amount of rust visible after only three years and that on an untreated frame...

RBFlDb4.jpg

vYb2BSE.jpg

9WZ1SWN.jpg

pQGA4G9.jpg

JBO5o0e.jpg

ZjoFkTo.jpg

HPN8euK.jpg

Qmh2XbQ.jpg

7DDs4rA.jpg

6jrsgni.jpg

 

 

Am I wrong to expect less rust, especially after a protectant has been sprayed over the metal? How good can 'high-strength steel' be if it rusts this much after only three years?

This vehicle has never been submerged in water much less salt water, and during my ownership hasn't even been driven that much on salty streets in the winter.

 

I working with the company that warranties the treatment and with the dealer but I'm fearful that their 'fix' will be just just scrape off the loose protectant and rust scale and just reapply the coating over the leftover rust.

 

Anyone else having this issue or is it just my truck?

Posted

They all rust here and there. Mine did. Yours has more than mine, but it's just surface rust. It's not affecting the integrity of the structure. Even if you did nothing about it, it would take a very long time to compromise structure. That being said, what I did was go over the rust with a wire brush and got all the loose flakes off. I then painted it with Permatex rust converter. Once that dried for about 24 hours, I applied Daubert Nox Rust, which is the factory wax coating. It looks brand new.

 

One question in your situation is what product did they spray on your frame. Some of the products degrade the factory wax protective coating and actually leave your frame exposed.

  • Like 1
Posted

One question in your situation is what product did they spray on your frame. Some of the products degrade the factory wax protective coating and actually leave your frame exposed.

This was my first thought as well.. wondering if whatever undercoating they applied completely counteracted the factory wax coating?

  • Like 1
Posted

Even if you did nothing about it, it would take a very long time to compromise structure.

People are still driving trucks built in the 1990s (me) more holes than swiss cheese and the frame hasn't cracked otherwise broken yet.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I appears you paid for something they didn't do. There should be some trace of the protectant somewhere. I'm not seeing it.

What he said ^^^

 

Not sure about the US, but in parts of Canada they use a thick tar like substance to undercoat with when you buy that option at the dealer. None of that is present in your pics. It looks like it's just the original frame wax.

Edited by 3beejay3
  • Like 2
Posted

That's just down right sad! Not sure the build date on mine, gotta look. But I noticed a few on like weld areas of the frame, and it's a 2015.

Posted

 

I {am} working with the company that warranties the treatment and with the dealer but I'm fearful that their 'fix' will be just just scrape off the loose protectant and rust scale and just reapply the coating over the leftover rust.

 

Anyone else having this issue or is it just my truck?

It sounds like you are on top of the situation and need to see the preparation done prior to them reapplying any coating. Keep pictures like you have here of the process. I have owned many trucks and lived in areas with pretty harsh winters and have not seen this type of rust pattern on the oldest of my trucks. If I was in your position, I would take these pictures and a copy of the "appearance warranty" for preliminary legal advice. Your truck is safe and you will probably not own it long enough for rust to be a problem. However, as it is, your chances of a good price at sale time are pretty slim!

Posted

I know gm uses that crappy wax coating, but at least give us an option when ordering a new truck to have the frame powder coated for an extra grand or something. I'd pay it.

  • Like 1
Posted

It looks like they actually stripped the wax coating off the frame that came from the factory. I don't know if all trucks came with it, but it doesn't look like they did anything.

Posted

Some 2013 and 2014 frames were noted for the wax coating peeling right off, leaving the bare steel surface very vulnerable.

Posted (edited)

I know gm uses that crappy wax coating, but at least give us an option when ordering a new truck to have the frame powder coated for an extra grand or something. I'd pay it.

Personally, I'd prefer it to be galvanized or something. I'd at least like the option here in the rust belt and would pay a reasonable amount for it.

Edited by 3beejay3
Posted

Looks untreated and normal for that, just my opinion. I get mine sprayed inside the body and the underside from krown rustproofing. No sure what is available in the states but it takes care of it up here.

Posted

My 2014 is at the dealer getting this repaired right now. There is a repair bulletin on this although I had to call 8 different dealers to get one to actually make the repair. TSB# 14002A or #pI0564H should be the correct bulletin to reference

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 460 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...