Jump to content

Trans fluid flush vs drain and filter


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ive read that flushing the fluid out of a 4L60e can damage it.  Others say just to drop the pan and change the filter and refill the trans.  What are the pros and cons of each? What would you reccomend for fluid for a 1998 4L60e with 185k?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

If you've ever dropped a pan on transmission and seen all the stuff at bottom, think of that getting pushed around your transmission by the flushing methods.

   I prefer dropping pans and changing filters myself. But I would also recommend replacing pan with one that has a drain plug. Ones that don't can be messy trying to get drained.

Posted

Flushing does get the fluid out of torque converter that draining cant do

 

Posted

also flushing can do the cooler in radiator and the lines.

   I just did my transfer case and transmission, but an 88 700R4 and 241C, used Valvoline high mileage (red Bottle) synthetic Dexron/Mercon, was on sale at Advance Auto.

Posted

I did the math for this in a similar thread but bottom line is it takes multiple dump and flush to change 93.75% of the fluid. On the 6L80E about three, six quart changes or 18 quarts. Drive a few hundred miles between each dump. Change the filter on the first dump.  A power flush would take about a 48 gallon drum to dilute to the same end point. Power flushes rarely use more than a case of fluid. If this is hard to get your head around try this;

 

Put a full glass of milk in the sink and slowly let the faucet run into it overflowing and observe how many gallons of water it takes to get the milk out of the glass. 

 

I would need to know the trans capacity and the service fill volume to get a number of services for your box. 

Posted

Drain and filter is more than enough. You don't need to get every last drop out, even swapping 50% would make a big difference in wear/longevity.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

This is how I do it, it costs a little more but what price peace of mind?

I get a 5-gallon bucket (like paint comes in) all the tools you'll need, rags, and enough trans fluid to replace all the fluid in the trans and converter. Remove the pressure line from the transmission oil cooler and aim it to the 5-gallon bucket, get a helper ready with transmission funnel and have all the new bottles of fluid open and ready to go, suggest you keep the new bottles on a stand and not on the vibrating vehicle, the bottles are sure to spill if left on the vehicle. Start the engine, trans fluid will start to come out of the pressure line immediately. Pour new fluid into the trans. using the trans funnel. keep up with the fluid pumping out of the pressure line. When fresh fluid exists the pressure line shut off the engine, reconnect the pressure line, drain the tranny pan, remove the old filter, clean the pan, make sure the gasket surface of the tranny pan is flat, clean the pan again, install new filter, clean the pan again, then install the gasket and pan in accordance with GM/Goodwrench service instructions and carefully torque the bolts down. Put fresh fluid in the tranny until it shows(to avoid over-filling) on the dipstick. Start it up, give it a few seconds to draw the new fluid up and check the fluid level. Check for leaks. Add fluid as necessary. Now so far as I know you just changed ALL the fluid. If you don't get it all using this method you sure get most of it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

At a dealer the rule of thumb is a flush for transmission service.  They do not-unless requested drop the pan and change the filter.  

 

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I drop the pan every 25k on every auto tranny I've owner and I never had a transmission problem. Drop the pan, replace filter, bolt the pan up, top off fluid;  Pease of mind. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I am at 95K miles on the 07 Classic Silverado and starting to change fluids that I know I can do.  Completing the diffs and t-case this weekend. 

Tranny service dealer told me today they only flush and don’t change the filter as their machine cleans the filter during the flush.  Told them I have heard horror stories after flush and was told that was years ago.  Now new machine no issues and it cleans the filter as well without removing pan.  Also, they told me dropping pan and change filter costs more than the 250.00 flush.  So, looked at tranny but don't know if I can do it or not.  Just got truck in my garage and will need to put on jack stands.  What is the process or troubles dropping the pan and getting it back on?  I see the exhaust may need to be disconnected from manifolds.

Posted
22 hours ago, lryfer said:

I am at 95K miles on the 07 Classic Silverado and starting to change fluids that I know I can do.  Completing the diffs and t-case this weekend. 

Tranny service dealer told me today they only flush and don’t change the filter as their machine cleans the filter during the flush.  Told them I have heard horror stories after flush and was told that was years ago.  Now new machine no issues and it cleans the filter as well without removing pan.  Also, they told me dropping pan and change filter costs more than the 250.00 flush.  So, looked at tranny but don't know if I can do it or not.  Just got truck in my garage and will need to put on jack stands.  What is the process or troubles dropping the pan and getting it back on?  I see the exhaust may need to be disconnected from manifolds.

Plenty of videos on Youtube. Just search.

 

Here's one search for you

 

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=2007+silverado+classic+transmission+fluid

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.   [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55462229387_5c9bbe5416_b.jpg[/img]   NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.   [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55463207451_16a229e2f8_b.jpg[/img]   I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:   [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55463598785_88e6de0164_b.jpg[/img]   And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:   [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55463206526_7d19819403_b.jpg[/img]   Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.   [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55463377309_a18f23d493_b.jpg[/img]   The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • Same here, first I bought a few filters to get me going right after I bought my truck to do some short distance initial oil changes, then realized I could buy a case lot for less as they drop the price if filters or trans oil etc is bought by the un opened case lot as well as the discount for buying the vehicle there. So I have filters for a while but its good to know going forward, knowing to expect it to be a different part number and looking filter at the dealer and not be confused over it and think they are handing me the wrong part.
    • Saw Inglewood was in the National New last night for hail. Allot of hail. front end loader level hail. 😱
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...