TRADING ROUGH RIDING '15 CHEVY TAHOE LTZ NEEDING ADVICE!

josh4ku · November 25, 2017

Bought a 2015 tahoe LTZ 4 months ago and have become sick of the rattles, and rough riding. I seen a few posts on here talking about the Magnetic ride control is causing them to rid rougher than the models without. Looking at trading for a 2017-18 gm yukon SLT. Hoping without the magnetic ride control it will ride better. What about the tow package that ads the air ride to the rear? Are you guys seeing rougher or better ride with this option? Also are there any other options to stay away from? Im going with 22" rims for sure.

AgDoctor · November 26, 2017

I had a 15 with mag ride and I liked the ride. I even added the 22s to it and while they stiffened the ride, I would still consider it good. That being said I now have a 17 Yukon Denali and it has 22s and mag ride and it rides better. I'm guessing some change in some parts and or programming but the ride is better.

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xspecmor · February 11, 2018

I own a 2015 Yukon SLE with 20 inch wheel, when I first got I noticed a lot of pressure on my ears after it went a way within a couple of month and it been a pleasure to drive there is no pressure what so ever. Its been a solid vehicle riding extremely smooth I changed tires to Goodyear Wrangler from Continental even my wife said it was even smoother of a ride

Tahoe02 · February 12, 2018

Whatever you decide to buy make sure you take it for a good test drive. As you see others like the MRC ride and when I had my 15 LTZ before the 17 I had no problem with the ride. A lot of it is personal preference. Good luck with your decision.

Lgetz · April 21, 2018

Friend's wife had her 15 Tahoe LTZ magnetic ride control shocks replaced under warranty and she states the difference in ride was night and day. Went from stiff and hard as a dump truck to smooth as an old Cadillac. Check yours out for signs of leaks which would be an indication they are bad.

Trey Salem · July 18, 2018

My wife bought a 2015 Tahoe ltz with the z95 suspension less than a year ago. We noticed the mag ride failed shortly after hooking up a trailer and towing it a short distance. It has progressively gotten worse the past month. Never did get any better. This thing rides ridiculously rough. Not even applicable with the conversation with ride preference. Backing out of the driveway, speed bumps, small cracks in the road, imperfections in parking lots that would otherwise go unnoticed will literally bounce you out of your seat. Drinks splashed all over the place that were in the cup holder. It isn’t even a rough ride, it is a violent ride. The fix, there’s a few options. New factory front struts either installed at the dealership or on your own as well as rear air shocks. Very few places are selling these as of now because most of these trucks are still under warranty. If you’re unlucky, the truck isn’t under warranty or you get the run around at the dealership and they tell you it’s all in your head and or try to sell you a new truck. You can either walk to the parts department and purchase the replacement shocks and struts or you can take it to a local repair shop and pay them for parts, markup and labor to fix it for you. OR........there are multiple aftermarket applications that you can purchase. You can even go back to conventional shocks and struts and separately purchase resistors that plug into the wiring harness to trick the computer into thinking the truck has the OEM parts on it still. This will eliminate the service suspension system warning on the dash. For the rear shocks, they make the conventional “upgrade” with a compressor module bypass that plugs into the compressor module located up underneath the spare tire. There are many options to go with depending on what you’re looking for. It seems the most sensible option for those with deep pockets is to get all 4 shocks/struts replaced at the dealership and pay the money. Or if you’re looking to go the other direction or perhaps do it yourself and get a hell of an upgrade for half the price you can go with aftermarket stuff and kind of piece together yourself a mag ride delete kit. There are some forums and a few YouTube videos out there if you really look hard. I’m going with the second option simply to never get a pissed off text message from my wife wearing her coffee on the way to work again. ?

5MUPPETS · May 21, 2019

We have a 2015 Suburban LTZ with approximately 98K miles on it. I have always hated the ride but attributed it to the 22" wheels. Recently, speed bumps, and any other imperfection in the road has felt like riding in a go cart. We have also noticed a popping or knocking sound around 40-45 mph. Took it to the dealer for diagnostic and they stated the cause of both is front struts are out, approximately $1800 for the repair. Talking with a local repair shop and discussed replacing with a conventional shock (Monroe) and using the resistor to eliminate system warnings at a cost of about $800. Curious of anyone that has gone this route and their experience?

bulldogms · July 23, 2019

I have a 2015 suburban lt and would like to go conventional also.

Did you ever get any answers?

5MUPPETS · July 23, 2019

I went conventional and it made a huge difference. I only swapped the front and left the air bags on the rear. I ended up having to buy a kit from xineering to delete magnaride and get rid of the service suspension message. Would highly recommend.

Brian P · June 2, 2020

On 7/22/2019 at 11:17 PM, 5MUPPETS said:

I went conventional and it made a huge difference. I only swapped the front and left the air bags on the rear. I ended up having to buy a kit from xineering to delete magnaride and get rid of the service suspension message. Would highly recommend.

did you end up going with the Monroe Quick Strut 139104's?

davester · June 2, 2020

31 minutes ago, Brian P said:

did you end up going with the Monroe Quick Strut 139104's?

note, the person you quoted hasn't logged into the site in almost a year...you may not get a response.

Brian P · June 2, 2020

22 minutes ago, davester said:

note, the person you quoted hasn't logged into the site in almost a year...you may not get a response.

dang. Thanks for the heads up. I didn't even look.

dwchapmanjr · September 19, 2020

I might be bringing this thread from the dead, or not but same issue for me, 2015 Yukon Denali, 38k miles.

January of this year I got bad news that one strut was bad while at the dealer for oil change. I needed new tires as well.

COVID hit and I stopped driving it for weeks on end except for a daily test. Around July I got to thinking if one strut went out, other shocks/struts might be because I started having rough ride issues. Checked the rears and they were both leaking into the bladder and eating through it so I replaced those. Ride was a little better but not back to normal so I checked the remaining front and it was leaking so I replaced that as well.

Took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything and claimed they couldn't reproduce it but road force balanced and rotated. I drove off the lot to find I had a tire with conicity in the rear that was in the front now causing a pull. I hoped replacing that would fix the ride issue but it didn't.

My passengers don't seem to feel it so its likely on the driver side. Might just be the tires, its too low mileage for much else to be wrong unless it needs the new strut assembly. There is a TSB which states that, replacing rear shocks and full front strut assemblies and shocks but I've heard mixed reviews as to whether it fixes it.

IndyRob K. · October 19, 2020

On 5/21/2019 at 10:24 AM, 5MUPPETS said:

We have a 2015 Suburban LTZ with approximately 98K miles on it. I have always hated the ride but attributed it to the 22" wheels. Recently, speed bumps, and any other imperfection in the road has felt like riding in a go cart. We have also noticed a popping or knocking sound around 40-45 mph. Took it to the dealer for diagnostic and they stated the cause of both is front struts are out, approximately $1800 for the repair. Talking with a local repair shop and discussed replacing with a conventional shock (Monroe) and using the resistor to eliminate system warnings at a cost of about $800. Curious of anyone that has gone this route and their experience?

Ive seen the resistors for 400.00 and they seem plug and play. I would do that myself first then go get shocks/struts