Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2017 1500 Silverado. I recently had a message that my right rear turn indicator had failed. I checked and yep, the bulb was broken. I replaced both right and both left with LED bulbs and now my truck tells me that both left and right turn indicators have failed. All the lights turn on so I don't know what the problem is. Are the LED bulbs not compatible?

 

Thanks!

Posted (edited)

I assume you have a non-LTZ model and replaced incandescent bulbs with LEDs, correct?  Did you wire in resistors when you changed to LED bulbs?

 

If you don't add resistance, the lower current draw of LEDs will trigger the "failure" message when you select a turn signal.  You will also likely see the fast blinking "hyper-flash" without resistors.  I did this mod myself a few months back.  I put a post here that shows the added resistors.

 

If you don't want to use separate resistors, there are some LED bulbs out there built with integrated added resistance to be used in incandescent fittings.  There are a few threads here already that mention those but I'm not too familiar with them.

Edited by Armo325
  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...
Posted

The right rear tails light assembly has been replaced and still does not have the turn signal flashing. The right front is flashing and all other lights on the right rear are operational. The vehicle is a 2017 GMC Daniele Yukon.    

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...