Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Very disappointed... this is a truck... 150 watts is useless... I really fail to understand how the designers could sit around a conference room table and think adding this feature to a truck was a good idea.Might be good for a small car but not a truck! Give us 15amps at 120volts  or go away. Just dumb. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Don Ariola said:

Very disappointed... this is a truck... 150 watts is useless... I really fail to understand how the designers could sit around a conference room table and think adding this feature to a truck was a good idea.Might be good for a small car but not a truck! Give us 15amps at 120volts  or go away. Just dumb. 

 

Because it's something that at least a few people could and do use (150W outlet).

 

Your 15A/120VAC outlet basically requires the plow package upgrade, as would require AT LEAST 150A (more due to losses converting DC to AC).  And using it, you either get a dead battery pretty quickly, or you need the truck running AND the motor revved up so the alternators are working at close to their maximum output.

 

That costs a bundle of money to put in every truck, when the majority of people will make do with the low power outlet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I use mine to on my air mattress pump when I go camping. I also use it to charge my Milwaukee power tool batteries and my laptop.

 

I have never had it not work for me. But then again, I am a reasonable person. The people that expect this to work like a job site generator are crazy.

Posted

I occasionally use the outlet to charge the battery for my RC crawler while I'm driving.  If the truck is parked, I connect the AC/DC charger directly to the battery, since the outlet turns off when the key is out.  I'm only charging at 5A, and around 8V.

 

47926877338_8d5086a1f6_c.jpgIMG_2690_edited by Ryan Jakob, on Flickr

  • Like 2
Posted
On 7/4/2019 at 2:08 PM, rkj__ said:

If the truck is parked, I connect the AC/DC charger directly to the battery, since the outlet turns off when the key is out. 

You can change it so the outlet stays hot all the time.  You need to move a fuse from one position to another (I think it's from space 10 to space 11).  Check your manual or search these forums for instructions.  I did it to mine years ago and use the outlet all the time now.

Posted
20 hours ago, sk said:

You can change it so the outlet stays hot all the time.  You need to move a fuse from one position to another (I think it's from space 10 to space 11).  Check your manual or search these forums for instructions.  I did it to mine years ago and use the outlet all the time now.

Good to know, thanks.

 

I'll still continue to connect direct to the battery when not driving the truck though, for a couple reasons.  First, it's more efficient.  There is no need to convert DC to AC, then back to DC.  Second, I don't like to leave a LiPo battery charging out of sight.  While I consider the risk to be very low, it's not hard to find a few tales of batteries bursting into flames when charging. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Not enough juice to power a power tool battery charger. Anyone know if it can be upgraded for higher wattage?

Posted (edited)

Well a little math and it looks like  1.3 amps on 115 volts and I assume thats continuous  rated so you might get a little more out for a short time.  Certainly not enough for a crock pot, your table saw or microwave. 

I am assuming there is an inverter someplace that could be upgraded to perhaps 500 watts. But your going to draw a lot of 12 vdc amps to do 42 or so and thats not figuring in the loss in the inverter which could add  20%, just guessing. 

Edited by wmgeorge64
  • 8 months later...
Posted

on my 2016 I just used it to bower a craftsman 1/4 sheet palm sander, when first plugged in it worked for a second or so that failed. unplugged it waited a couple of minutes truck running, plugged it back in with the green light on bright and it worked long enough to complete the sanding job, That too about 30 minutes.

Posted

I've charged every electronic device imaginable with mine. I also plug my Ryobi 18 volt six pack charger into it from time to time. I also regularly run my electric shaver from it with no issue(other than ground up whiskers in my perforated seats).

 

I sold a table saw to a guy a few years ago(3 HP). I met him in the parking lot at the local grocery store. He pulled out a 100 foot long extension cord and plugged it into the dash. I told him it wouldn't work but he tried anyway. He insisted the saw was bad until I plugged my electric razor into his truck and it worked. I was a bit baffled myself because I though he blew a fuse. Apparently there is some sort of electronic protection in there.

Posted
On 8/11/2020 at 1:26 PM, Cheverado said:

I've charged every electronic device imaginable with mine. I also plug my Ryobi 18 volt six pack charger into it from time to time. I also regularly run my electric shaver from it with no issue(other than ground up whiskers in my perforated seats).

 

I sold a table saw to a guy a few years ago(3 HP). I met him in the parking lot at the local grocery store. He pulled out a 100 foot long extension cord and plugged it into the dash. I told him it wouldn't work but he tried anyway. He insisted the saw was bad until I plugged my electric razor into his truck and it worked. I was a bit baffled myself because I though he blew a fuse. Apparently there is some sort of electronic protection in there.

There's definitely some protection in there, I'm no electrician so i can't explain what kind lol.  After running a blow up air mattress and a jig saw on mine I brought a coffee maker to the camp site.  Was real sad when I had to pay for coffee at the general store, but didn't blow a fuse after trying the coffee pot 3 or 4 times ?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have plugged in a small compressor to this outlet and it didn’t have enough power to run the pump. Pump just made a weird noise and I unplugged it. I am now getting a sluggish start when it cranks over and a couple times now the battery acts as if it’s dead and won’t start the truck, needs jumped. I have had the battery tested (it’s a high output gel battery) and it still tests fine. Could it be a relay that is bad draining the battery when it’s parked? And if so where would it be located? I would think the inverter has to have a relay or module somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 281 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...