Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Well, here is mine. No one makes a bracket for a hidden winch because of the tow hook bolt placements on the frame. All brackets and plates were made of 1/4 inch steel. I did have to drill one hole in the frame and run a 4 inch bolt through the passenger side frame, rear hole of the tow hook for the bracket bolts. I also had to cut off the lower front bumper brackets. The winch was to wide to sit between them so they had to go. The last major mod was the lower facia being cut. The fairlead sits right below the metal of the bumper and I cut out the plastic of course. I also cut the plastic to fit a receiver and we welded a small piece of angled steel to the bottom of the winch plate and used the original screws and retainer nuts for the facia bracket. Last, Oregon requires a front license plate. So I used 1-1/4 conduit holders, drilled holes in the license plate and original plate bracket, and it just simply snaps onto the fairlead. Completely hidden. Winch is a Badlands ZXR 12,000 with wireless remote. I am unable to use the spool lock, so no free spool for me on this setup unfortunately. I also ran quick connects 1/0 AWG wire to both front and rear of the truck. I will also be doing a hidden winch on the rear factory bumper of the truck in the coming weeks.

7C6EF1A0-1C10-4276-A583-D2E35CE416C0.jpeg

75D29BF6-CA1B-47E3-8C8E-04A5776741D9.jpeg

4BDA3C16-62EC-46CE-B904-E824846D0952.jpeg

Edited by Will O'Daniel
  • Like 6
Posted

Driver side brackets. Notice the drop 1-1/2 so the plate can sit on the bracket and also give the clearance I want with the fairlead.

88A40A49-A181-4CE9-B10D-6B359073D572.jpeg

BAC8B786-C4F2-4FF1-9158-081FA9B34BFA.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Passenger side bracket. Mirrors the other bracket. Notice the odd bolt and nut. This is where I had to bore out the tow hook and drill the frame. 

FE63482C-72B0-47DB-BCE6-FE838F3B1923.jpeg

156670DE-1955-44E5-A732-BA683977D65E.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Winch plate and fascia bracket. Just drilled holes for the plate to mount to the bracket and welded a piece of angle iron to the receiver and used the factory bracket mount holes and screws for the facia.

DA1A6C33-1CC9-40CD-8D3F-2707AA546A08.jpeg

7A22FD73-88EA-4236-B304-76326AFA7EF0.jpeg

Edited by Will O'Daniel
  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, silveradonationfan15 said:

Would you have either picture of your truck side on? this truck looks amazing! What size of lift are you using?

I used a Fabtech 6” lift. She sits on 35x13.5 tires on 20” Fuel Beast rims. 

A4123AC3-AD01-4AD6-9E0D-74DFCD665788.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Do you do this kind of work for a living or a hobby.  If a living, I would be interested in talking to you about doing another one.  I'm in Southern Oregon. 

  • Like 1
Posted
15 minutes ago, gixxerk8 said:

Do you do this kind of work for a living or a hobby.  If a living, I would be interested in talking to you about doing another one.  I'm in Southern Oregon. 

It’s a hobby. My cousin does this for a living. He lives in Powell Butte, Oregon. He is the one that helped me with the install on this. I had a vision, designed and fabed the brackets, and he helped do the fit and install. You can PM me and I can see what you want to do.

Posted
18 minutes ago, Penguin VII said:

That is amazing! I don't really know that I have a need for a winch but I want one now.

There is always a need for a winch! I could fab up some brackets for you and send them to you if you decide you want to do one! 

Posted

Nicely done!  I personally would never cover it with the plate.  I'm not sure where I'd locate the licence but it doesn't matter as everyone will be focused on the winch!

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,911
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    jaszr2
    Newest Member
    jaszr2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 512 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...