Jump to content

What's the next mod we all want Phil Gamboa to figure out?

Mileguru

Recommended Posts

sk Senior Enthusiast

sk

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Not yet.

Side Mirrors
Rear view mirrors
Center console
Running boards
Head lights (16+ only)
Tail lights (14-18)
Wireless charging (modules and adapter harness)

I think this is the bulk of it.

Phil,

 

Any idea when you and TinkeringFox may have the ORL switch and harness ready for the 14/15's?

  • Replies 333
  • Created
  • Last Reply
cmatt Enthusiast

cmatt

Posted
Posted

Not yet.

Side Mirrors
Rear view mirrors
Center console
Running boards
Head lights (16+ only)
Tail lights (14-18)
Wireless charging (modules and adapter harness)

I think this is the bulk of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


HUD
Fog lamps
Seats
Illuminated handles
....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

I want to see him hack the ABS system so we can tune in  a simulated electronic positraction using the rear brake calipers to grab the spinning wheel, just enough to maintain traction and not cut the throttle or spark...

 

Good Luck. 

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Phil, how much for the harness to add the tri-fold running boards?

$250 if 2016+. $300 for 2014/2015. Shipped anywhere in the US.

If you have a 14/15 truck, there is fuse block you’ll want to get IF you want to land the power wire to the 30amp fused Factory location. Then additional wiring that needs to go inside the cabin, hits the back side of the IP switch connector and passenger side kick panel (hence the $50 up charge for that wiring)

Here are a coupon of part #s for the fuse block. This is good for Gas Trucks.

22aad97221baced60cd92e8217e2a65b.jpg

2ab5c7f1af41780390fe635cce74c02a.jpg

fc3c1054ae63ea9531855bdb0147ce15.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PAPER Enthusiast

PAPER

Posted
Posted
On 2/16/2019 at 4:00 PM, pgamboa said:


$250 if 2016+. $300 for 2014/2015. Shipped anywhere in the US.

If you have a 14/15 truck, there is fuse block you’ll want to get IF you want to land the power wire to the 30amp fused Factory location. Then additional wiring that needs to go inside the cabin, hits the back side of the IP switch connector and passenger side kick panel (hence the $50 up charge for that wiring)

Here are a coupon of part #s for the fuse block. This is good for Gas Trucks.

22aad97221baced60cd92e8217e2a65b.jpg

2ab5c7f1af41780390fe635cce74c02a.jpg

fc3c1054ae63ea9531855bdb0147ce15.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I remember reading you were going to try the Cadillac Escalade arm rest in your truck  , Did you ever get around to fitting it in ?

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
I remember reading you were going to try the Cadillac Escalade arm rest in your truck  , Did you ever get around to fitting it in ?

Yeah. It bolts on but the latch mechanism is slightly different and doesn’t latch. I also tried to swap latch assemblies but tot didn’t align either.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tuckin22 Enthusiast

tuckin22

Posted
Posted

I know this has been beat to death in other threads. But it would be nice if a fully loaded diesel could somehow utilize up fitter switches. Or at the very least upfitter slots in the fuse box as I haven’t seen a switch panel that has six switches for a fully loaded diesel. 

PAPER Enthusiast

PAPER

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Yeah. It bolts on but the latch mechanism is slightly different and doesn’t latch. I also tried to swap latch assemblies but tot didn’t align either.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damn that sucks ...

DRodriguez New Member

DRodriguez

Posted
Posted

Yo Phil, I swapped my dl8 to dl3 last year thanks to your DIY kit. I also added the rearview mirror. The only option missing was reverse tilt. Did you find a way to add this function, like reprogramming HMI.

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Yo Phil, I swapped my dl8 to dl3 last year thanks to your DIY kit. I also added the rearview mirror. The only option missing was reverse tilt. Did you find a way to add this function, like reprogramming HMI.

Nope. That’s part of seat memory system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
vase 17HC Enthusiast

vase 17HC

Posted
Posted

What about the window control? Automatic up or down on all four? Like the eacalades? Would be sweet!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cbrsilv15 Senior Enthusiast

cbrsilv15

Posted
Posted

I want Phil to program an extra button on my key fob so when I press it,  that will pay off my loan and automatically mail me the title.  Sound good?

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

Has anyone figured out how to install the oem trailer controller? part numbers for bezel, switch, harness, programming BCM etc....

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
On ‎2‎/‎23‎/‎2019 at 1:26 AM, vase 17HC said:

What about the window control? Automatic up or down on all four? Like the eacalades? Would be sweet!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I second this...it may take Phil @pgamboa and Chris @GTPprix to work together but the 2019 has the following

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 3,596 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      J&L OIL SEPARATOR CO

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • JAI3
      2016 Sierra 5.3L L83 new injectors now runs rich.

      By JAI3 · Posted

      I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Coastie05
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No, but don't skimp on safe! 😉 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...