how to bypass bose amp my15+

xps800doo · July 24, 2018

So after much searching it appears that nobody has yet to figure out how to add a 4-6 channel amp to their 2015+ (I have a 2015 2500 slt with bose and bucket seats)factory radio and bypass the bose amp. Or has somebody figured it out and I have just not been able to find it??

Thanks in advance

Ichie123 · July 24, 2018

Metra makes a bypass harness

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xps800doo · July 25, 2018

Metra makes a bypass harness

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Have you actually installed one of these? I am dumbfounded how other companies can get hundreds of dollars for bypass interfaces(pac audio is releasing one soon for 299) and they have a simple harness... something doesn’t add up...?

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Ichie123 · July 25, 2018

I haven’t used one but I’ve bypassed enough to know it will. Used to work at a car audio shop. Essentially all it’s doing it’s taking the harness that feeds the speaker inputs from the radio to the new harness and connect to your input on the amp. Then the other harness hooks into where the speaker wires output from the amp would be so that it’s a direct line to the speakers.

xps800doo · July 25, 2018

I haven’t used one but I’ve bypassed enough to know it will. Used to work at a car audio shop. Essentially all it’s doing it’s taking the harness that feeds the speaker inputs from the radio to the new harness and connect to your input on the amp. Then the other harness hooks into where the speaker wires output from the amp would be so that it’s a direct line to the speakers.

So it will basically be taking all the connections off he bose amp...But to my understanding the app is where all the signal processing on star door chimes etc. come from??? So that basically means from what I’ve read that you cannot take the bose amp out of the system?

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Ichie123 · July 25, 2018

Not all the connections. Just the speakers wires. Everything should work the same. The amp is still powered and working in the background. The bose amp just powers the speakers. Onstar and all of that are on another module.

Ichie123 · July 25, 2018

RACERX7775 · July 28, 2018

If you just tap into the wires, then add an amp all of your chimes and turn signals will be amped too.

The RIGHT way to do it is to buy the t harness from NAV-TV at $849. It keeps everything plug and play. It keeps chimes and onstar at factory volumes.

I just did a fill system in my crew cab.

I have

focal yellow 3 way in front doors and dash

focal yellow 2 way in rear doors

JL audio 12tw3 shallow sub under rear seat

JL audio 800/8i 8 channel vxi for mid/high

JL audio 600/1i 1 channel vxi for the sub

JL audio hub for tuning/connecting them

Dual batteries-second in factory location

Tons of dynamat-WORLDS OF DIFFERENCE

using all optical cables-- no rca wires.

I have about $6k in the whole system. And it wouldnt be possible or sensible for me to do it unless i had the t harness.

ftwhite · July 28, 2018

1 hour ago, RACERX7775 said:

If you just tap into the wires, then add an amp all of your chimes and turn signals will be amped too.

The RIGHT way to do it is to buy the t harness from NAV-TV at $849. It keeps everything plug and play. It keeps chimes and onstar at factory volumes.

I just did a fill system in my crew cab.

I have

focal yellow 3 way in front doors and dash

focal yellow 2 way in rear doors

JL audio 12tw3 shallow sub under rear seat

JL audio 800/8i 8 channel vxi for mid/high

JL audio 600/1i 1 channel vxi for the sub

JL audio hub for tuning/connecting them

Dual batteries-second in factory location

Tons of dynamat-WORLDS OF DIFFERENCE

using all optical cables-- no rca wires.

I have about $6k in the whole system. And it wouldnt be possible or sensible for me to do it unless i had the t harness.

How did you mount the mounting board, and where did the factory amp end up?

Did you use all 8 channels, bi-amp, or bridge some? I assume there are 5+1 from Bose system (Front, Rear, Center, & Sub)?

Thanks for any insight. I have the Focal 2 way in front, Focal coax in rear, and a focal 3krx3 mid-range 3" driver pair for the dash/center. I am adding the NAV-TV and amp next, but only have a JL HD900/5. So I am trying to figure out how many more channels I might need before I rip into it.

RACERX7775 · July 28, 2018

I removed the bose amp to just under the rear seat where the jack used to be. Then i removed the studs that the Bose amp was mounted to. I then used riv nuts and installed them in the brace close to the top of my mounting plate. That way there is no holes leading to the outside.

The bose amp is 7 channel. Front dash, front door, rear door, and sub.

Im using all 8 channels. Front dash tweeters, front dash 3" mideange, front door 6 1/2" midbass. Thats 6 channels. The other 2 channels are for the rear door 6 1/2" and tweeter that i am running passive (using the crossover) while all other speakers are active.

The other 600/1 vxi amp is for my sub.

I also got the jl hub that gets the inputs from the nav tv and then goes to the amps. It makes it way easier for tuning.

Like i said before, i dont have RCA cables. I have one optical cable from the nav tv to the hub. Then an optical cable from the hub to each of the amps.

The nav-tv piece is expensive at $849 but its the ONLY thing out right now that truely lets the truck perform like the factory. I even had to turn the chimes up a little. People have just tapped into the door wiring and just run that to their amps with a line out converter but ask them how loud rheir chimes are with 100 w/channel. It litterally was about 8 minutes to install the nav-tv unit. It plugs directly into the radio module. It also comes with a remote wire for the amps too. Use it.....

Im still in the process of breaking the speakers in so i cant let it rip yet. But its crazy on how clear and awesome it sounds. Its not the loudest. But thats not what i wanted for this truck. Ive had all that before in my other trucks. But its the best sounding truck ive had. Definately the newest technology i have. The vxi amps have NO knobs on them and can ONLY be tuned via a tablet or laptop.