Jump to content

Wheel Spacer?

steve76t
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Donstar
Donstar

This tire size is very close to stock and I suspect the rubbing is a result of the level.  I wonder if switching to a smaller level kit would eliminate the rubbing?   A 1" or 1.5" level kit may  provi

pewterliftedz
pewterliftedz

BORA is the brand name of quality bolt on adapters: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/chevy_s   I personally wouldn't use the Rough County brand spacers, they're lug centric,

Crazyjoker77
Crazyjoker77

this thread needs more pictures and less blab.

Posted Images

btj_z71 Enthusiast

btj_z71

Posted
Posted
BORA is the brand name of quality bolt on adapters:
http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/chevy_s
 
I personally wouldn't use the Rough County brand spacers, they're lug centric, not hubcentric.  I would go with a set specifically designed for our trucks.  I think I paid $50 for my pair, which isn't cheap, but I had no vibration or balancing issues. 
Mine are from RC, 2" spacers. No issues either. Have had them installed for nearly 2 years now.33fa05020c3f6707bdbe86e02b3c0309.jpg619d5f070c5ff54ddf2c09d5f50790a0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, btj_z71 said:

Mine are from RC, 2" spacers. No issues either. Have had them installed for nearly 2 years now.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

I meant the RC slip on spacers, not the bolt on adapters.

steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 10/19/2018 at 9:13 AM, pewterliftedz said:

If you have the factory Snowflake wheels, you can run a 1" BORA adapter type spacer, and not have to trim your studs.  Personally I wouldn't go bigger than a 1/4" with slip on spacers, you want to make sure you're getting plenty of thread engagement. 

Only a 1” spacer?  I would have guessed at least 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” would be needed. I have the factory 20” Denali Wheel which is different that the regular Snowflake wheel.  I also haven’t taken the time yet to remove a wheel and check the depth of the holes in the back.

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, steve76t said:

Only a 1” spacer?  I would have guessed at least 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” would be needed. I have the factory 20” Denali Wheel which is different that the regular Snowflake wheel.  I also haven’t taken the time yet to remove a wheel and check the depth of the holes in the back.

IDK about other wheels, but the snowflake have enough relief to run a 1" adapter. 

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
On 10/19/2018 at 11:09 AM, pewterliftedz said:

I ran a 1/4" spacer on the front of my truck when I ran factory wheels with 305s, and it helped eliminate a lot of the rub.  With a 285 or 295 I'm sure that 1/4" would get rid of all the rub.  They're nice custom hubcentric pieces, I don't need them anymore since I went aftermarket wheels and control arms, let me know if someone is interested.

spacers.JPG

I would be!  Do they still allow the oem wheel to sit on a hub ring? Or studs only?

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted
On 10/23/2018 at 5:23 AM, Yondu said:

I would be!  Do they still allow the oem wheel to sit on a hub ring? Or studs only?

Yup, the wheel remains hubcentric with the 1/4" spacer.  Message me if you're serious, and we can set something up.

steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 10/19/2018 at 9:13 AM, pewterliftedz said:

If you have the factory Snowflake wheels, you can run a 1" BORA adapter type spacer, and not have to trim your studs.  Personally I wouldn't go bigger than a 1/4" with slip on spacers, you want to make sure you're getting plenty of thread engagement. 

For the record, I removed a wheel & measured the depth of the cavities in the back of my 20” Denali wheels...  a 1” spacer wouldn’t work for me.  The studs are 1 3/4” long & the depth of the cavity is only 1 5/8”.  A 1” spacer would be at least 1/8” short of what’s needed to work.  Here’s a pic of what the back of my wheels look like...   I decided to go with 1 1/4” spacers & they’re exactly what I was looking for.  

C2D4E4BE-D7D5-4DB0-A10E-8F56FEE89CF7.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Pulled the trigger on some 1 1/4” spacers for my truck.  Install took about 1.5 hours as I was taking my time, did test fitting at each wheel, made sure everything was clean, then made sure all were installed correctly.  Here’s a pic of how she looks...

 

3E2E244F-2B1E-4F19-B5BE-2D753DA43346.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
  • Like 1
steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Here’s pic down the side from front

7F936FEC-E137-4795-A90C-33430E91E2D3.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
  • Like 1
steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

And one more down the side from the rear...

7495349C-0737-4FA3-BA90-BA1705C1836C.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
  • Like 1
Mike GMC Enthusiast

Mike GMC

Posted
Posted

I have a little experience with slip on spacers as well as thicker bolt on spacers with studs.  I ran several different sizes and styles of slip on spacers on my Camaro.  I had some cheap cast spacers for a while.  They suck.  They do not hold torque well at all.  The billet machined spacers are much better and are more stable.  Just make sure you still have enough thread engagement, minimum is 1.5 x stud diameter.  If you are short of this, ARP makes some nice longer studs.

 

Same goes for the bolt on spacers, billet machined are way better than cast.   Make sure they have quality studs and nuts.

 

"Flame suit on". I have found zero difference in performance between hub and lug centric spacers.  Not in drivability, steering shake, perceived wheel shake or bearing life.  The way I see it, the lugs MUST help center the wheel anyway with tapered (acorn) lug nuts other wise tightening them down would try to split the wheel if one or more were off center.  I think hub centric is nothing more than an assembly aid to help the lugs center up on the assembly line to speed things up.  "Flame suit off". Just my opinion.

  • Like 1
Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, steve76t said:

For the record, I removed a wheel & measured the depth of the cavities in the back of my 20” Denali wheels...  a 1” spacer wouldn’t work for me.  The studs are 1 3/4” long & the depth of the cavity is only 1 5/8”.  A 1” spacer would be at least 1/8” short of what’s needed to work.  Here’s a pic of what the back of my wheels look like...   I decided to go with 1 1/4” spacers & they’re exactly what I was looking for.  

C2D4E4BE-D7D5-4DB0-A10E-8F56FEE89CF7.jpeg

Are your tires stock 275/55r20 size?

 

With a 1" spacer you need 3/4" deep pockets, correct?  I'll have to measure my wheels.  I kind of like not destroying my feet ders with rock chips though...hmmmm

steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

No, slightly bigger with 285/55r20 which are about 3/4” taller & 1/2” wider than 275/55r20’s.  On the truck my BFGs are nearly an inch taller than the stock Goodyear SRAs it came with.  

 

With a 1” spacer, yes you’d need a wheel with 3/4” deep pockets or more.  The other option would be to trim the end of the stud some.  There is room to do that as there’s about 1/2” of stud length that’s not threaded or used.  

Edited by steve76t

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fish_truck
      Casey from the Texas Hill Country

      By Fish_truck · Posted

      Howdy! New to the forum of course! My name is Casey, just picked up a 2024 high country midnight edition. First “new” truck in 24 years for me. Driving a 1998 Z71 since 2002. Have been on the GMT400 forum with lots of good info and help there. Nervous about driving these newer trucks and all their electronics…. Did a lot of work on the Z71 myself over the years. New truck is definitely a nice upgrade after 24 years. Photo of the old and new, still keeping the Z71 - has 320,000 miles on her and still running well!  
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      We did 250 on our tractors until we switched to Amsoil. We doubled after that. 
    • PunchT37
      OCI, not when but why?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      When I was there, most to all did not have an hour meter. They just did 5000 miles on regular vehicles and 3000 on police stuff. The modern oil change monitors should take into account engine hours, weather, etc. I don`t use the monitor on my stuff. I pull the stick, look at it, smell it, rub it between my fingers, etc. That`s my oci.   I have had many engines. Some bracket race. No problems doing things my way. I was in the mechanic business for 30 yrs or so. I still do things the old school way. Don`t care who laughs at me.   Understand, I was in the main shop. We didn`t do oil changes or tires. We had a service station for that. I don`t remember the hours they used for tractors, lawn mowers, etc. Something in my head says 250 hours.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I don't know how far back vehicles had hour meters, be it driver accessible or diag accessible but was wondering if there was any rule of thumb your shop came up with in regards to an hour limit on engine oil regardless of the miles on the oil.    I know with construction or farm equipment its almost always based on engine hours for maintenance scheduling as no other metric really applies other than a seasonal time limit that one self imposes on items like engine oil.  
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I'm not sure what to say on that mess but I will say that is an odd thing for that mechanic to speculate on as per assuming its been run out of oil a few times as the odds of that engine having instead piled up with a complete seizure would be very high if such events had actually taken place. However there is nothing saying that the oil has ever been changed although once again, what filter was on that engine as that would tell part of the story if its possible to figure out if its a factory installed filter or not. Too many items unknown and a lot of speculation, but regardless of that its one fubared mess that is mind boggling to see for a vehicle that new and its hard to imagine how it ever made it that far in life looking at the top of the engine.    His scanners, I've watched him before here and there and I'd have to say if I recall correctly that some of his scanning equipment is one or two steps up from a child's Exo Sketch 😋

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...