Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I installed the Auto Stop eliminator.  It turns the feature off and allows you to turn it back on if you want.  It basically makes the default position off instead on.  It does require minor dash disassembly and plugs into the factory harness.  The kit cost $99 and I had a local audio shop install it for $100.  Since  about 70% of driving is in town it totally transformed the driving experience.

  • Like 3
Posted

I'm finally remembering to hit the off button in my '23. At least it has it. I've got the Range eliminator plug in unit in my '20 Traverse. Killed the AS in my '15 Malibu with a Trifecta tune. Totally useless function that increases wear and vehicle complexity IMO. Want to save fuel? Drive less and get the junk out of the ''trunk''. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/4/2023 at 1:15 PM, btntx said:

You're missing the point. ICE engines were not designed to work like this. It's not a golf cart. The constant stalling and restarting of the engine causes unnecessary wear on the drivetrain, not to mention its a huge safety issue. There have been several instances when I was trying to cross a busy street and almost got hit because the instant power was not available that would have been had the truck not stalled itself. This "feature" is simply an example of people who do not design cars (politicians) being allowed to impose baseless mandates for purely political reasons.

Exactly btntx! More damage here to components than fuel saved. It is a safety hazard in emergency situations. One starter, or flywheel, or  battery costs more than any fuel savings...GM has to warranty those damaged parts. Environmentally, it's a fail.

GM should make the  switch  always OFF, unless we decide it's useful. A simple software change by GM is an easy fix. Don't put crap on our vehicles that we don't want!!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

it doesn't save any fuel. it takes more fuel to restart then idle at a stop sign. You will pay more in early repair costs then you would save if it did work. I cant be leave they put it in my 22 1/2 3.0L and good god this truck got me 27.5mpg on my 80mile run today. auto stop was off.  My Auto stop eliminator was supposed to come today. It didn't. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

The hardest wear on an engine is the starting of it. This can;t be good.

Posted

I haven't tried it yet because I'm building muscle memory to always turn the button off after I start the truck and before I put it in gear, but on some vehicles AutoStopStart is disabled when towing, or when the windshield defogger button is pushed, or sometimes when a dummy plug is inserted into the trailer lights jack. Has anyone used any of these methods on their Chevy/Jimmy Silverado and found one or more of them to work?

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/1/2023 at 1:29 PM, TrueBlue said:

I haven't tried it yet because I'm building muscle memory to always turn the button off after I start the truck and before I put it in gear, but on some vehicles AutoStopStart is disabled when towing, or when the windshield defogger button is pushed, or sometimes when a dummy plug is inserted into the trailer lights jack. Has anyone used any of these methods on their Chevy/Jimmy Silverado and found one or more of them to work?

I want to build a harness now, but I can't wrap my head around how or why it would affect the S/S. Any ideas? 

Posted
On 10/1/2023 at 1:29 PM, TrueBlue said:

I haven't tried it yet because I'm building muscle memory to always turn the button off after I start the truck and before I put it in gear, but on some vehicles AutoStopStart is disabled when towing, or when the windshield defogger button is pushed, or sometimes when a dummy plug is inserted into the trailer lights jack. Has anyone used any of these methods on their Chevy/Jimmy Silverado and found one or more of them to work?

List of things that prevent auto stop/start from 'stopping'.

 

Auto Engine Stop/Start

 

When the brakes are applied and the vehicle is at a complete stop, the engine may turn off.

When stopped, the tachometer displays AUTO STOP.

See Tachometer pg 114.

 

When the brake pedal is released or the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine will restart.

To maintain vehicle performance, other conditions may cause the engine to automatically restart before the brake pedal is released.

Auto Stops may not occur and/or Auto Starts may occur because:
. The climate control settings require the engine to be running to cool or heat the vehicle interior.
. The vehicle battery needs to charge.
. The vehicle battery has recently been disconnected.
. Minimum vehicle speed has not been reached since the last Auto Stop.

. The accelerator pedal is pressed.
. The engine or transmission is not at the required operating temperature.
. The outside temperature is not in the required operating range.
. The vehicle is shifted out of D (Drive) to any gear other than P (Park).
. Certain driver modes have been selected.
See Driver Mode Control pg 242 and Four-Wheel Drive pg 233.
. The vehicle is on a steep hill or grade.
. The driver door has been opened or the driver seat belt has been unbuckled.
. The hood has been opened.
. The Auto Stop has reached the maximum allowed time. 

 

Sometimes I forget to shut it off and sometimes I let it run so I can play with it.  (Most trips it's not going to kick-in for the first few stops anyway because one of the restrictions in the list that prevent stops.) 

Playing with it I've found that it is also possible to release the brake pedal enough to cause a re-start without the vehicle moving.

 

Posted
On 11/15/2023 at 3:40 PM, redwngr said:

List of things that prevent auto stop/start from 'stopping'.

 

Auto Engine Stop/Start

 

When the brakes are applied and the vehicle is at a complete stop, the engine may turn off.

When stopped, the tachometer displays AUTO STOP.

See Tachometer pg 114.

 

When the brake pedal is released or the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine will restart.

To maintain vehicle performance, other conditions may cause the engine to automatically restart before the brake pedal is released.

Auto Stops may not occur and/or Auto Starts may occur because:
. The climate control settings require the engine to be running to cool or heat the vehicle interior.
. The vehicle battery needs to charge.
. The vehicle battery has recently been disconnected.
. Minimum vehicle speed has not been reached since the last Auto Stop.

. The accelerator pedal is pressed.
. The engine or transmission is not at the required operating temperature.
. The outside temperature is not in the required operating range.
. The vehicle is shifted out of D (Drive) to any gear other than P (Park).
. Certain driver modes have been selected.
See Driver Mode Control pg 242 and Four-Wheel Drive pg 233.
. The vehicle is on a steep hill or grade.
. The driver door has been opened or the driver seat belt has been unbuckled.
. The hood has been opened.
. The Auto Stop has reached the maximum allowed time. 

 

Sometimes I forget to shut it off and sometimes I let it run so I can play with it.  (Most trips it's not going to kick-in for the first few stops anyway because one of the restrictions in the list that prevent stops.) 

Playing with it I've found that it is also possible to release the brake pedal enough to cause a re-start without the vehicle moving.

 

Thanks. I'm getting pretty good now with remembering to turn it off on the center stack before it has a chance to kick in.

On 11/15/2023 at 2:17 PM, W4LWQ said:

I want to build a harness now, but I can't wrap my head around how or why it would affect the S/S. Any ideas? 

In addition to what redwngr listed above, the manaul also states (Page 230 on mine): If equipped, the Stop/Start system will become unavailable when Tow/Haul Mode is active.
I don't know if the system will be disabled if a pigtail is attached to the plug or not. In order to know for sure, a dummy connector could be used, but also it would have to be under a condition which does not exist in redwngr's list above, and the truck is not in Tow/Haul mode. I don't think I'm going to try it, for several reasons; I don't want to leave the cap up on the trailer plug housing, I don't want to drive around with a dummy plug attached, and I've gotten pretty good at remembering to turn off the switch manually now. One of the differences between our trucks and other vehicles I've had with stop/start is that the others had this switch down by the driver's knee, and for me at least, out of sight meant out of mind, until the stupid system stopped the engine. Also, I'm hoping that Range will eventually come out with a disabler.

Posted
6 hours ago, TrueBlue said:

Thanks. I'm getting pretty good now with remembering to turn it off on the center stack before it has a chance to kick in.

In addition to what redwngr listed above, the manaul also states (Page 230 on mine): If equipped, the Stop/Start system will become unavailable when Tow/Haul Mode is active.
 

Good catch -- I didn't even read this list.

 

I do know that in at least some earlier year manuals the T/H thing was in the list. 

 

In the list I copied (2023 sierra) they aren't clear that Manual mode also makes it unavailable.

Posted

if you dont want it on id recommend just getting the Auto Stop Eliminator. its a easy install. everything just pops apart. 

Posted
11 hours ago, redwngr said:

Good catch -- I didn't even read this list.

 

I do know that in at least some earlier year manuals the T/H thing was in the list. 

 

In the list I copied (2023 sierra) they aren't clear that Manual mode also makes it unavailable.

Wait! You mean because I drive around in L9 all the time that the Stop/Start won't activate? That would be a nice touch!

 

10 hours ago, JCunningham said:

if you dont want it on id recommend just getting the Auto Stop Eliminator. its a easy install. everything just pops apart. 

I don't like pulling plastic interior pieces apart. Don't know if it's bad technique or something else but I've found that after I put things back together as often as not I end up with squeaks and rattles. I'm really hoping that Range will bring something to market soon.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, TrueBlue said:

Wait! You mean because I drive around in L9 all the time that the Stop/Start won't activate? That would be a nice touch!

 

 

It's just as easy to push the stop/start button. 

 

Why are you running around in L9?

 

 

Posted
24 minutes ago, redwngr said:

It's just as easy to push the stop/start button. 

 

Why are you running around in L9?

 

 

It disables DFM.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
    • The average lifespan of automobiles on the road is increasing - here's why
    • Typically it is the Torque Converter, I have a 2.7L Trail Boss and between 25-65 MPH at 1300-1500 rpms under light throttle it has a shudder which I almost consider and bobble or a gargle sound. They replaced my TC but it did not help any, others say it has fixed their issues. It has been back twice now with no fix after.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...