Jump to content

Added driver assist handle and trim won’t line up now (pic)

BillK01

By BillK01
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

BillK01 Enthusiast

BillK01

Posted
Posted

So the second thing I did to my new Sierra 1500 is add the driver assist handle like is in the passenger side.

Everything went smoothly and I was happy until I looked at the truck from the front and noticed some of the interior portion of the A pillar is now exposed and the edge of the new handle doesn’t cover it.  I have had it off and on 5 or 6 times tryin to get it to line up with no luck.  Has anyone else had this experience?  Attached is a pic of what I’m talking about.  Sorry the rotation is funky.

 

B2C5CC6E-0E58-4C6B-BA54-AF02D0ECA9C8.jpeg

BillK01 Enthusiast

BillK01

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you!  I think I’m going to order another one, then try lopping out the big plastic guide thing on the one I have now and see if it helps my problem.  If it does then I can return the replacement and if not I’ll try the new one and see if it’s any better.  Worse case I’m out 50 bucks I guess. 

slj2008 Senior Enthusiast

slj2008

Posted
Posted

What I did was to line it up , push on the windshield side first , then the other side , snap in place & add bolts . HOPE this helps ?

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, BillK01 said:

Thank you!  I think I’m going to order another one, then try lopping out the big plastic guide thing on the one I have now and see if it helps my problem.  If it does then I can return the replacement and if not I’ll try the new one and see if it’s any better.  Worse case I’m out 50 bucks I guess. 

You shouldn’t have to cut anything, that plastic post is more of a guide, it has a hole to fit into...I didn’t even cut the retaining strap. Save the money and look at it and see if you can see the alignment hole, it may be hiding behind a wire bundle but it’s there.

BillK01 Enthusiast

BillK01

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 minutes ago, SS502 said:

You shouldn’t have to cut anything, that plastic post is more of a guide, it has a hole to fit into...I didn’t even cut the retaining strap. Save the money and look at it and see if you can see the alignment hole, it may be hiding behind a wire bundle but it’s there.

The hole is right there and very obvious.  And the guide is definitely sliding into it as I install the new piece.  I'm now wondering if the brackets that are welded to the A pillar for the bolts to screw into aren't possibly off a bit which may be what's causing the misalignment.   I'm stumped.  The only other thing I can think is the alignment guide is bottoming out in the hole too early causing the entire assembly to not fit quite right - which is why I was considering cutting it off entirely.

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, BillK01 said:

The hole is right there and very obvious.  And the guide is definitely sliding into it as I install the new piece.  I'm now wondering if the brackets that are welded to the A pillar for the bolts to screw into aren't possibly off a bit which may be what's causing the misalignment.   I'm stumped.  The only other thing I can think is the alignment guide is bottoming out in the hole too early causing the entire assembly to not fit quite right - which is why I was considering cutting it off entirely.

That is weird, man I just didn’t want you dropping another $50...I remember just having to kind of wiggle it until I got both bolts started then grabbing the handle and ensured it went on right because if I just tightened them it sat a bit off but it did go flush.

BillK01 Enthusiast

BillK01

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I can try but this ain't my first rodeo on vehicle interior trim removal/replacement.  I've had most of the dash and doors out of everything from an Audi GT, Honda Accord, GMC Yukon XL to Ford F150 over the years. 

 

I've also thought of taking a heat gun to the assist handle and see if I can't massage the windshield edge over a bit tighter to see if that helps (obviously with it out of the vehicle at the time!).

 

When installing it I start with the long bottom tab by the speaker in the dash - make sure the corner is not folded in by where the weatherstrip goes down by the dash - then work my way up from the dash to the top of the A pillar - making sure the guide piece goes into the hole by the tether attachment then finally snapping in the clip up near the headliner (while making sure the weatherstrip is over top of the new assist handle trim).  Once I start the bolts in I kind of push up on the handle to rotate the trim up tight near the windshield gap.  It all looks good until the bolts tighten up and it just pulls open all over again.  Did that at least 6 times last night until I finally surrendered and went to bed. :)

 

Thanks for the input guys - I really do appreciate all of it! 

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
12 minutes ago, BillK01 said:

I can try but this ain't my first rodeo on vehicle interior trim removal/replacement.  I've had most of the dash and doors out of everything from an Audi GT, Honda Accord, GMC Yukon XL to Ford F150 over the years. 

 

I've also thought of taking a heat gun to the assist handle and see if I can't massage the windshield edge over a bit tighter to see if that helps (obviously with it out of the vehicle at the time!).

 

When installing it I start with the long bottom tab by the speaker in the dash - make sure the corner is not folded in by where the weatherstrip goes down by the dash - then work my way up from the dash to the top of the A pillar - making sure the guide piece goes into the hole by the tether attachment then finally snapping in the clip up near the headliner (while making sure the weatherstrip is over top of the new assist handle trim).  Once I start the bolts in I kind of push up on the handle to rotate the trim up tight near the windshield gap.  It all looks good until the bolts tighten up and it just pulls open all over again.  This that at least 6 times last night until I finally surrendered and went to bed. :)

 

Thanks for the input guys - I really do appreciate all of it! 

Well you’ve covered all the bases! Starting to think those welded tabs may very well be misaligned like you mentioned. Man, I hope it works out because I love mine and it save a bit on the leather seats not being slid across all the time ?

BigBadSierra Senior Enthusiast

BigBadSierra

Posted
Posted

The assist handles fit better in the double cab then the Crew cab. At leas my new crew,

I was fretting over a gap at the top then notice the passenger side was the same.

They fit tighter in the double cabs I had.

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, BigBadSierra said:

The assist handles fit better in the double cab then the Crew cab. At leas my new crew,

I was fretting over a gap at the top then notice the passenger side was the same.

They fit tighter in the double cabs I had.

Fit great on my 2018 SLT CC

5C665435-92D0-47E9-8E60-B5D9F013C228.jpeg

815E0180-5E72-444B-8CC5-0A53C4B53CEF.jpegSorry about that sideways shot, it wasn’t that way when I loaded it ?

BillK01 Enthusiast

BillK01

Posted
  • Author
Posted
58 minutes ago, BigBadSierra said:

The assist handles fit better in the double cab then the Crew cab. At leas my new crew,

I was fretting over a gap at the top then notice the passenger side was the same.

They fit tighter in the double cabs I had.

My passenger side is perfect.  I won’t rest until I get the driver side to my satisfaction.  Ordered the extra one today.  Once it arrives I’m taking off the one that doesn’t fit and going to start with hacking off the guide pin and if that doesn’t work I’ll try heat gunning it before I use the new one.

STRMTRPR Enthusiast

STRMTRPR

Posted
Posted

.. something's not lined up.. you don't need the bolts to hold the trim in place they're there to keep you from popping it off under your weight when you hang off it.. if you're using the bolts to position it then it's not lined up. You are doing it right - start at the bottom, work it around until it is fully seated in the groove along the dash then line up the plastic centering post with the hole in the pillar (you can use a trim tool to work the weatherstrip into position) and snap the pressure clip into the slot in the pillar (make sure you attach the metal pressure clip to the trim first and fully seat it - do not try to insert the trim into a clip that is already in the pillar).. everything should be tight and in position without gaps. You should only be re-using the metal pressure clip from the old trim piece.

..edit.. snapped a couple pics in the dark

20181212_190614.jpg

20181212_190512.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...