Jump to content

Audio Upgrade

TURNER

By TURNER
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

TURNER Enthusiast

TURNER

Posted
Posted

Hello i have a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab LT non-bose 4.2 inch display and was wondering what audio upgrade options I have. I don't want to swap the head unit as it is too much of a hassle.

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted
Hello i have a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab LT non-bose 4.2 inch display and was wondering what audio upgrade options I have. I don't want to swap the head unit as it is too much of a hassle.
How handy are you? There is 2 plastic 3m mount that go on each side of the radio then a tablet can side in and out. Bluetooth it to factory radio. A little time spent setting up the apps(there are YouTube videos) and it can control all the same stuff. With data or wifi you can do anything.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Swapping out the headunit is easy. Pop a panel out and 4 7mm screws.   

TommyTSquared Enthusiast

TommyTSquared

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

How handy are you? There is 2 plastic 3m mount that go on each side of the radio then a tablet can side in and out. Bluetooth it to factory radio. A little time spent setting up the apps(there are YouTube videos) and it can control all the same stuff. With data or wifi you can do anything.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Have a link to the video?

TURNER Enthusiast

TURNER

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How handy are you? There is 2 plastic 3m mount that go on each side of the radio then a tablet can side in and out. Bluetooth it to factory radio. A little time spent setting up the apps(there are YouTube videos) and it can control all the same stuff. With data or wifi you can do anything.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


I was think more about the options as far as swapping the doorspeakers and adding an amplifier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

I was think more about the options as far as swapping the doorspeakers and adding an amplifier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh no Bose add speakers. Audio control line level to rca to amps.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

TURNER Enthusiast

TURNER

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Oh no Bose add speakers. Audio control line level to rca to amps.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


are the dash speakers wired to the front speakers? if i add an amp would it blow those dash speakers?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

are the dash speakers wired to the front speakers? if i add an amp would it blow those dash speakers?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I question if you have dash speakers but no they are sperate on non Bose at least. The will I blow them is all based on power and signal so no one can answer that. But if you are worried just by new ones they are the cheapest ones. My jl dash speakers on Bose amp power scream.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

TURNER Enthusiast

TURNER

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I question if you have dash speakers but no they are sperate on non Bose at least. The will I blow them is all based on power and signal so no one can answer that. But if you are worried just by new ones they are the cheapest ones. My jl dash speakers on Bose amp power scream.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


the non bose does have dash speakers but i believe they are wired into the front door speakers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

the non bose does have dash speakers but i believe they are wired into the front door speakers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is hard to believe as they are two different speakers and what would they meter in ohms. There would need to be blockers or crossover in the radio but then they wouldn't be wired together exactly. Guess you will need to pull them and meter.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

That is hard to believe as they are two different speakers and what would they meter in ohms. There would need to be blockers or crossover in the radio but then they wouldn't be wired together exactly. Guess you will need to pull them and meter.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Different signal.  But they do have dash speskers

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted
Different signal.  But they do have dash speskers
I agree on signal but they are not wired to the doors are they. If so what ohm? Run less ohms and you can damage,over heat or destroy radio. To high and th empower is reduced and doesn't sound good.
Maybe just get a component set and wire door power to mid input and dash to tweeter. Max the power available if no aftermarket amp is going to be used.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
I agree on signal but they are not wired to the doors are they. If so what ohm? Run less ohms and you can damage,over heat or destroy radio. To high and th empower is reduced and doesn't sound good.
Maybe just get a component set and wire door power to mid input and dash to tweeter. Max the power available if no aftermarket amp is going to be used.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Ohm load wont matterfor speakers on a stock headunit. Most arent under 2ohm wich is fine. Only time you run under1 ohm ks for subwoofers

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...