Jump to content

The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 698
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I’ve done a bunch of reading here and am still confused by which options to get (Or which brand for that matter). I have a ‘15 Sierra 6.2 with 33k miles. About 2k miles ago I had the dealership do the intake cleaning which seemed to help with cold idling- I live in Santa Barbara so my cold isn’t really cold. I’d like to prevent more buildup on the intake valves.

Posted
43 minutes ago, Red_5 said:

I’ve done a bunch of reading here and am still confused by which options to get (Or which brand for that matter). I have a ‘15 Sierra 6.2 with 33k miles. About 2k miles ago I had the dealership do the intake cleaning which seemed to help with cold idling- I live in Santa Barbara so my cold isn’t really cold. I’d like to prevent more buildup on the intake valves.

 

There's a ton of information out there, but bottom line.... you won't find a better performing Catch Can than the Elite Engineering E2 or E2-X Catch Cans. 

 

The E2 Catch Can comes complete with hoses, mounting bracket, and all hardware, but does not include the Clean Side Separator or Exit check valve (these can be added as options).  


The E2-X Catch Can "Kit" includes (1) exit check valve and (1) Clean Side Separator.

 

The Dual Exit port Catch Can is great, but it does require you to drill and add a plastic fitting into your intake tube for the 2nd port.

The check valve is a nice adder, but not a necessity.  When installed, it keeps the Catch Can from getting pressurized on forced induction or turbo vehicles.

 

Let us know if you have any questions, we can always be reached at [email protected]

 

 

 

 

Posted
5 hours ago, Elite Engineering said:

 

There's a ton of information out there, but bottom line.... you won't find a better performing Catch Can than the Elite Engineering E2 or E2-X Catch Cans. 

 

The E2 Catch Can comes complete with hoses, mounting bracket, and all hardware, but does not include the Clean Side Separator or Exit check valve (these can be added as options).  


The E2-X Catch Can "Kit" includes (1) exit check valve and (1) Clean Side Separator.

 

The Dual Exit port Catch Can is great, but it does require you to drill and add a plastic fitting into your intake tube for the 2nd port.

The check valve is a nice adder, but not a necessity.  When installed, it keeps the Catch Can from getting pressurized on forced induction or turbo vehicles.

 

Let us know if you have any questions, we can always be reached at [email protected]

 

 

 

 

Thanks. I called and left a message. Not sure what the differences are between the E2 and E2x. I’m pretty sure I constructed them to have the same features but ended up with different prices. Hopefully I’ll get a call back.

Posted
2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

:lol: How much explanation does a beer can need? :lol:

At $300-$400, potentially a lot.

Posted
22 hours ago, Red_5 said:

Thanks. I called and left a message. Not sure what the differences are between the E2 and E2x. I’m pretty sure I constructed them to have the same features but ended up with different prices. Hopefully I’ll get a call back.

 

Thanks for your message and phone call.   Our E2 an E2-X are both very good performing Catch Cans, we think the absolute best in the industry.  One thing that might be a little confusing on the price, the E2-X Catch Can "Kit" includes the Clean Side Separator and Check Valves.  The E2 does not, but these can be added as options.  That's the main difference in the price.  While the E2-X has a ball valve at the bottom for draining, the E2 Catch Can has a screw-off bottom for emptying and cleaning.  Both Catch Cans be completely disassembled if needed.

 

 

Posted

Just a heads up on anyone asking about fittings. All the UPR Plug n Play Catch Can systems come standard with OEM Quality Braided Hose and OEM Plug n Play Fittings

 

Joe 

Posted

Anyone have an AFE CAI with a dual exit catch can?

If so, did you drill a hole at top center close to the TB for the 2nd exit?

 

I'm waiting on some answers as to connecting the 2nd exit since my CAI has a port right at the TB where the CSS hose will connect to.

I could drill a hole top center on the CAI close to the TB, but then I'll have the 2nd exit hose and CSS hose next to each other and I'm waiting on an answer if this will be okay or not?

 

Playing the Jeopardy theme song here....

 

Posted
On 9/17/2018 at 11:32 PM, RDKILL said:

Anyone have an AFE CAI with a dual exit catch can?

If so, did you drill a hole at top center close to the TB for the 2nd exit?

 

I'm waiting on some answers as to connecting the 2nd exit since my CAI has a port right at the TB where the CSS hose will connect to.

I could drill a hole top center on the CAI close to the TB, but then I'll have the 2nd exit hose and CSS hose next to each other and I'm waiting on an answer if this will be okay or not?

 

Playing the Jeopardy theme song here....

 

You can use the second connection on you CAI and that will work perfectly without having to drill any additional holes.

 

PM me any other questions.

 

Joe

Posted
On 9/17/2018 at 9:32 PM, RDKILL said:

Anyone have an AFE CAI with a dual exit catch can?

If so, did you drill a hole at top center close to the TB for the 2nd exit?

 

I'm waiting on some answers as to connecting the 2nd exit since my CAI has a port right at the TB where the CSS hose will connect to.

I could drill a hole top center on the CAI close to the TB, but then I'll have the 2nd exit hose and CSS hose next to each other and I'm waiting on an answer if this will be okay or not?

 

Playing the Jeopardy theme song here....

 

 

 

Hey Woody,

 

What you will need to do is to connect (bridge) both valve covers together.  You will then replace the oil fill cap with our cleanside separator (CSS). Run a hose from the barb on the CSS (1/2") to the barb closer to the MAF sensor than the throttle body.  The second outlet from the can with checkvalve flowing AWAY from the can to the barb closest to the throttle body.

 

Center of our Catch Can connects to the valley barb located below the throttle body on the driverside's of the TB.

 

First outer fitting to the intake manifold barb that did connect direct to the valley barb originally.

 

No need to drill a hole.

 

Posted
13 hours ago, Orlando8 said:

Joe, sent you a PM with pictures that you asked for...……………...

Didn't get a PM or pics...but I think I have it sorted out.

Thank you!

Posted
10 hours ago, JoeCCS said:

You can use the second connection on you CAI and that will work perfectly without having to drill any additional holes.

 

PM me any other questions.

 

Joe

Thank you for the confirmation to what I thought would work, and wanted to know if anyone else had the same CAI.

Looking at the set up on YT it seemed like I didn't have to drill a hole.

Posted
9 hours ago, Elite Engineering said:

 

 

Hey Woody,

 

What you will need to do is to connect (bridge) both valve covers together.  You will then replace the oil fill cap with our cleanside separator (CSS). Run a hose from the barb on the CSS (1/2") to the barb closer to the MAF sensor than the throttle body.  The second outlet from the can with checkvalve flowing AWAY from the can to the barb closest to the throttle body.

 

Center of our Catch Can connects to the valley barb located below the throttle body on the driverside's of the TB.

 

First outer fitting to the intake manifold barb that did connect direct to the valley barb originally.

 

No need to drill a hole.

 

Thank you Steve for verifying and confirming the set up.

It was great working with you, and now it's just a matter of delivery.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 
    • We try to make cruise the coast. It’s where our favorite casino is. I only want to spectate. Never took a car. Always had one to take. I belonged to a club once. Even when I used to drag raced. It was during test and tune. Probably because I’m not a night owl, party person. 
    • We had a pretty big cars and coffee in Indy this past weekend.  Pretty much anything and everything was there.  
    • Good looking Olds, and TRX!   I haven't been into car shows either. I'm probably not a convert but I did push myself this year to attend a few select events to challenge some assumptions and try to experience car-based social clubs in a different way. I joined up with the local Hagerty group for some cars/coffee events, group drives. A month ago I showed my '94 Camaro I rescued last fall at Radwood. Had a good time, but, there was some sitting around with the car and that's the part of shows I don't enjoy as much. I prefer to be a spectator, walk the show, grab a burger, go home.   Radwood was the only era-limited event, but where it had strict model year limitations, it made it up in variety. Having Jason Camissa there was also a hoot.   Where I see old 50's car shows, doo-wop and winga dinga music stuff fading out, same with "only" vintage muscle clubs, it seems to be the activity-based clubs/events which are gaining strong popularity. Places where all cars and interests come together.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...