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KozzyJr

Catch Can?

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i noticed that the passenger side has tubes coming out of the block and into the air intake.  is there a catch can needed/available for that side?  i scrolled on the inner web and did not find a direct fit kit.

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On 9/8/2020 at 7:17 AM, Steven Thibodeau said:

i noticed that the passenger side has tubes coming out of the block and into the air intake.  is there a catch can needed/available for that side?  i scrolled on the inner web and did not find a direct fit kit.

Yes that passenger (clean side) can use a can as well.  Here is a good explanation of how a dual catch can system works that handles the passenger side as well.

 

 

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On 9/9/2020 at 10:57 AM, fortplainman said:

JLT looks like a good deal on the 6.2. Might be worth trying after this read emoji106.png

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

It’s an easy install and well made.

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On 9/23/2020 at 1:33 PM, Hobert said:

Yes that passenger (clean side) can use a can as well.  Here is a good explanation of how a dual catch can system works that handles the passenger side as well.

 

 

This is a great example of how the drivers side only units are only a partial improvement. Sure, they limit some of the oil from re-entering the intake and coking up the valves, but the valley and passenger side bank are still blowing by into the intake. With about 1000kms on the truck, i found a healthy amount of oil in the stock passenger side pcv tube when changing the intake tube. That passenger line enters the intake after the filter and right in front of the throttle body. This RXP kit is a mess, but it at least seems to capture all sources of recirc. 

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Elite catch can almost 2oz when emptied between oil changes

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Ryan B.

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Watched the video.

 

1.) It is impossible for a normally asperated motor to loose vacuum in the plenum unless that motor is not running at all. As long as it is running there is a pressure gradient. It can get pretty low but it can not reach zero. 

 

2.) If you have more crankcase pressure than you have plenum pressure you have rings that are not sealing. 

 

3.) That the case the catch can is a band-aid for a much larger issue. 

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On 1/25/2019 at 5:08 PM, Smitty said:

I'm really curious if the 2019's will need one or not.   Anyone know for sure?

I am looking at the JLT 3.0 air/oil separator catch can.  It looks like a really great until and good quality

 

https://www.jlttruecoldair.com/jlt-3-0-oil-separator-2019-2021-chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-1500-5-3l-6-2l-2021-chevy-tahoe-suburban-gmc-yukon-yukon-xl-5-3l-6-2l/

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On 6/10/2020 at 11:17 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Question Phillip. Does your truck use oil and what is your routine oil change interval? Thanks. 

My Sierra 1500 has 26000km on the clock now and I have not noticed any oil consumption.  Although the dealer is still doing the oil changes at present as the truck came with two years worth of free oil changes, I check the oil regularly and before long trips and all good.  I am looking at the JLT  3.0 unit

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8 minutes ago, MRP said:

My Sierra 1500 has 26000km on the clock now and I have not noticed any oil consumption.  Although the dealer is still doing the oil changes at present as the truck came with two years worth of free oil changes, I check the oil regularly and before long trips and all good.  I am looking at the JLT  3.0 unit

So if your usage is nil then what will a catch can catch. Say that three times fast :) 

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11 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

So if your usage is nil then what will a catch can catch. Say that three times fast :) 

Been reading up and researching on the coating etc. of upper engine parts/component with oil etc. over the longer term.  If what people say is true about catching half a can between oil changes, not sure that would show up on the dipsticks? What are your thoughts?

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GM engineers didn't specify one from the factory, which suggests they didn't find it essential. The companies that sell catch cans, on the other hand, tend to suggest that these add-ons are very important , which isn't surprising. It's entirely normal for a modest amount of oil mist to circulate around in an oil-lubricated, internal combustion engine. Prior to about 1963, most manufacturers dealt with the oil mist by simply venting it out into the atmosphere. After that approach was rendered illegal, manufacturers added PCV or similar "closed loop" systems that handled the mist and relieved crankcase pressure by routing the oil laden air inside the engine through the induction system and into the combustion chambers. So, instead of venting out into the atmosphere, the mist got burned as part of the engine's normal operation. In some cars and in some circumstances, misted oil can accumulate in certain parts of the engine with ill effect. Also, oil mist may contribute to "coking" of intake valves. Coking is the solidification of oil resulting from severe oxidation and thermal breakdown, and it can occur when the oil mist is deposited on the underside of hot valves. This problem is more prevalent with intake valves in engines utilizing direct fuel injection, where the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber rather than into an intake port. With port injection or carburetors, the fuel passes over the backs of the intake valves and both cools and cleans them, reducing the likelihood of coking. When deciding whether an oil catch can is right for you, weigh the negatives against the positives. The negatives include the cost to buy and install one, and the need to periodically dispose of the captured oil. The positives include a reduced chance of coking, cleaner exhaust tips and maybe some extra peace of mind. WHEW!

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3 hours ago, MRP said:

Been reading up and researching on the coating etc. of upper engine parts/component with oil etc. over the longer term.  If what people say is true about catching half a can between oil changes, not sure that would show up on the dipsticks? What are your thoughts?

"What people are saying" is an interesting turn of phrase. What people? Those saying it is true? Those saying it is so are those experiencing the problem. Those not having an issue are not saying, silent they are. What you are hearing then is by your own word is but half a story. My thoughts are that it is impossible to make a good decision based on half the facts. Even silent they tell the rest of the story. What is that? 

 

If your motor uses oil and not leaking then use a can. If your motor uses no oil then the can is wasted money. The next question your going to ask is how much oil is considered 'using oil'. And it would be a good question. ALL MOTORS USE OIL!! 

 

Yea, yea.....look if you can measure the usage on the dipstick in 5,000 miles...use a can. If you cannot then what little oil that is 'normal' for the motor to use will not cause an issue over its entire lifetime.

 

I don't have one on mine and thus far 135K on the clock flawlessly. Cameron took some photo's of his motor with quite a few miles on it that showed zip on the valves. There's guys on this site with over a quarter million without a can without issues. 

 

Now my wife's Terrain uses about a quart in 10K. A cup in 2500 miles. I'd put a can on that one IF it was possible. 2.4 is internally routed and yea, that one has had the valves cleaned mechanically.

 

Situation dependent based on YOUR needs. That's what I think. 

 

 

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I've always ran the UPR Products stuff.  Seem to be good quality and I like the way it mounts on the battery bracket versus the JLT one with the coolant bottle just partially stuck back on the stud.

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3 hours ago, steelcity said:

 This problem is more prevalent with intake valves in engines utilizing direct fuel injection, where the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber rather than into an intake port. With port injection or carburetors, the fuel passes over the backs of the intake valves and both cools and cleans them, reducing the likelihood of coking. When deciding whether an oil catch can is right for you, weigh the negatives against the positives.  

Technically this isn't coking. Coking is hydrocarbons heated to the point of hydrogen disassociation leaving nothing but carbon behind. The backs of intake valves in a running motor come no where near hot enough to coke. Not even in a GDI motor. Even in a refinery a catalyst is required at temperatures near 950 F. Sans such a catalyst coking temperature exceed 1400 F. 

 

If it were 'coking' no fuel detergent would wash it away. Speaking of detergents...they are present in you motor oil. 

What happens is more akin to leaving the lid off a can of shellac or the creation of amber from tree sap. A coating of oil bakes during the hot soak repeatedly building up layers. Motors that live on short trips and use oil can have issues. Not so much with motors that use little and who's mile are more highway. 

 

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This is the intake tract of the afore mentioned GM Ecotec 2.4/I4 whose PCV system plugged and rings collapsed and consumed oil at a peak rate of a quart in 600 miles. This one needs a can. Short tip motor that uses oil. This cleaned up with solvent and a wooden scrapper. 90K on the clock if I remember correctly. 

 

 

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