Jump to content

King Off- Road Kit

Denali34

Recommended Posts

AZ_RADO_RNR Enthusiast

AZ_RADO_RNR

Posted
Posted

I have Camburg UCAs paired with adjustable King 2.5s all around on my 2016 Silverado. 

 

The ride is is pretty decent off-road, I’ve been able to keep up with stock Raptors on certain trails. 

 

I plan on purchasing the Dirt King long travel kit, to bad you already bought the suspension, I would of sold you mine for a discount! 

 

Attached is how my truck sits. 

4F7A7384-C599-4274-8046-2311D71EB5DE.jpeg

Denali34 Enthusiast

Denali34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I have Camburg UCAs paired with adjustable King 2.5s all around on my 2016 Silverado. 
 
The ride is is pretty decent off-road, I’ve been able to keep up with stock Raptors on certain trails. 
 
I plan on purchasing the Dirt King long travel kit, to bad you already bought the suspension, I would of sold you mine for a discount! 
 
Attached is how my truck sits. 
4F7A7384-C599-4274-8046-2311D71EB5DE.thumb.jpeg.454be67b9c2b372d6203a30f9c99390b.jpeg

Wow. That’s the exact thing I want. Looks great! I love the stance. Figures it was about a week too late for me lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
The kit I ordered was the 2.5 system F&R from King with Camburg control arms. I think that should be all I need.  Was told by email Monday that its 4 more weeks till shipping out to me. Im in no rush. 
 
Thank you [mention=114682]L86 All Terrain[/mention]  I really like this truck and plan on keeping it for a while. I happened to have quite a strong portfolio and when the economy became bull I was handsomely rewarded. Plan on retiring when I am 45 and seeing the country.


Wait! You previously said that you bought the 3.0’s and having them installed soon? Personally, you’re better off with the 2.5’s (unless of course you do go off-roading a lot) and have them custom valved like I did my 2.5’s but it took about 1 1/2 weeks and came straight through CST.


Sent from above
Denali34 Enthusiast

Denali34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

Wait! You previously said that you bought the 3.0’s and having them installed soon? Personally, you’re better off with the 2.5’s (unless of course you do go off-roading a lot) and have them custom valved like I did my 2.5’s but it took about 1 1/2 weeks and came straight

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

After talking to Ben at Filthy a little while ago at the suggestion of Grumpy Bear he suggested the 2.5 kit and saved me some stupid money. Still the full kit front and rear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s what I said too, you’re better off, better ride too unless you’re looking to catch a small amount of air which you’ll need a full system for that along with mods to your frame. Good luck


Sent from above
Denali34 Enthusiast

Denali34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was able to change the to the 2.5’s about a week ago. I ordered the 3.0 originally but was able to change for a little less money. Worked out great. Still long lead time but I’m in no rush. I wouldn’t be able to do it till June anyway with my schedule.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Didn’t see that, based it off of your original comment:
a2499020bd49df7ca0f22f62ae5aaaf6.jpg


Sent from above
xax Enthusiast

xax

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, AZ_RADO_RNR said:

I have Camburg UCAs paired with adjustable King 2.5s all around on my 2016 Silverado. 

 

The ride is is pretty decent off-road, I’ve been able to keep up with stock Raptors on certain trails. 

 

I plan on purchasing the Dirt King long travel kit, to bad you already bought the suspension, I would of sold you mine for a discount! 

 

Attached is how my truck sits. 

 

That things sitting niice..  Tires are 315/70/17s?

  • 3 months later...
kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted

How did this turn out?

I find with the kings you get spoiled pretty quick and forget how bad it was stock and start to see and feel the other design limitations of the truck. for a street/off road truck out of the box they are hard to beat. That said they are not magic and to covert it to a pre runner requires a lot of other work. However they do up the limits everywhere  from factory quite a bit. Are they worth it? overall yes, no doubt. but you have to keep your expectations realistic, don't put on 2.5's and think you can start jumping a crew cab. 1~4ft of air  youtube style ah no... 3.0's maybe ?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...