factory subwoofer

GMC-AT · May 16, 2019

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quicksilverc5 · May 16, 2019

16 hours ago, Jackwards said:

Please, feel free to flame me. It’s late and I’m calling it a night because I’m sure I’m missing something simple.

Started installing the Kicker subwoofer it from GM tonight.

Ran the harness tonight, connected (without fully installing the box), connected and had sound. Disconnected and put the box away for the night.

Two questions:

1) ended up with a check engine light (P25A2- engine electrical / chagring system & C0580 - Traction control error) after everything was run. OnStar says there’s a charging system issue. Anyone else encounter this?

2) Rear door speakers have nearly zero sound. Extremely low volume, and extremely light sound (zero bass, almost all highs). Fronts sound fantastic.

Sorry and thanks in advance for the help everyone.

You should check your battery connection at least in 2 places...

1. Did you re-seat the negative battery correctly and tighten it

2. Did you wire the Pos line to the right fuse set? See My Pic.

Third thing is did you splice into the correct wires on the passenger side or damage one while removing the insulation?

quicksilverc5 · May 16, 2019

20 hours ago, Jackwards said:

Great info. Thanks! Can you post a photo of where/how you mounted the knob? Thanks!

3M Double sided tape, line runs under the center through riverside and to the rear.

Edited May 16, 2019 by quicksilverc5

quicksilverc5 · May 16, 2019

7 hours ago, GMC-AT said:

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Looks nice. I modified my storage to fill in the rest of the space.

Edited May 16, 2019 by quicksilverc5

saber · May 17, 2019

I'm looking for a sub tap or high level speaker tap to add a sub amp to a non-Bose system.

The kicker instructions mention the brown and brown/blue wires at the audio control module.

Does anyone know if this is a low level sub output or a speaker tap?

Thanks in advance.

cccjrsbox · May 17, 2019

16 hours ago, quicksilverc5 said:

Looks nice. I modified my storage to fill in the rest of the space.

Looks great, I like the storage mod -

cccjrsbox · May 17, 2019

18 hours ago, quicksilverc5 said:

3M Double sided tape, line runs under the center through riverside and to the rear.

Did you have to remove any of the console to get the wire in there?

quicksilverc5 · May 18, 2019

20 hours ago, cccjrsbox said:

Did you have to remove any of the console to get the wire in there?

No, I used a metal coat hanger from the rear to pull the wire through. You can pull the charger pad off for more room.

Greenmachine777 · May 24, 2019

On 2019-05-16 at 8:22 AM, GMC-AT said:

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Can you confirm how you tied into Bose system for signal to your amp? Sorry if you already explained. I ordered LC2i module and thinking to get signal from front door speaker wires in wire harness by passenger side front?

GMC-AT · May 24, 2019

I have no clue - I paid a local shop to build the box and install.

Jaychevy81 · May 24, 2019

Can you confirm how you tied into Bose system for signal to your amp? Sorry if you already explained. I ordered LC2i module and thinking to get signal from front door speaker wires in wire harness by passenger side front?

If it’s the same as the 14 to 18’s driver side kick panel you tap off the rear driver door speaker wires. That’s how I did it when I installed my Kicker sub. I have Bose but it don’t matter Bose or not. There braided wires just cut back the harness tape and T tap them.

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Lyons00 · May 24, 2019

JL Audio makes a Stealthbox with 2 subwoofers, not cheap, but looks really nice and sounds amazing. I ordered one, should be here next week or the week after.

Jerry

cccjrsbox · May 29, 2019

Had mine installed today, wasn't very smooth. Went to the dealer where I purchased the truck and subwoofer - they have an off-site customization center affiliated with the dealership. Quoted 1 hour. Took them 4 hours, and they wanted me to pay for the extra 3 hours. I refused and they finally relented, kudos to them for doing the right thing.

Driving away, I noticed none of the HVAC or seat heat controls were operable. Turned around and went back 5 mins later, sat around for another hour, until they asked if I had messed with any of the trucks wiring. When I said no, they then wanted to send me to the dealership next week for diagnostics.

I quickly Googled the issue and recommended they disconnect and reconnect the battery. That did the trick.

Sounds good, glad I had the remote installed too. For anyone else going the dealer route, might want to make sure they have done one before, and definitely don't commit to a time and materials approach.

Bikeman · June 20, 2019

Installed mine last weekend. Pretty easy overall, took couple hours. Till trying to figure out the switches on the amp. Its very loud in the car. From outside not so much.

cccjrsbox · June 20, 2019

1 hour ago, Bikeman said:

Installed mine last weekend. Pretty easy overall, took couple hours. Till trying to figure out the switches on the amp. Its very loud in the car. From outside not so much.

I played around with them and ended up with 1,2,3,4,5 in the up position, 6 down. It's pretty loud, but with the control knob you can dial it back.

The best crossover point seemed to be 1up, 2down, 3up (4up,5up,6 down), but the volume was too low. One of these days I'll figure out the sweet spot!

Talked to Kicker, 1,2,3 = Gain Settings, 4 = 12volt or DC (leave it up for 12v), 5,6 = Slope (5up and 6down = 12db), not sure what 24db would be.

Edited June 20, 2019 by cccjrsbox
updated settings