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Zach-91 Enthusiast

Zach-91

Posted
Posted
On 1/2/2020 at 10:52 AM, Ezekiel2517 said:

I'm curious, why is no one trying to replace the factory bose sub with an 8 in a new box like was popular in the K2s?  Seems like it should still work.  Maybe no one has measure out the specs for a box yet

Me too. I actually built my own box that copied the design from the Ebay console box you can buy and still have it as I pulled it back out before trading it in. I just haven't had the right weather and motivation to spend a Saturday tearing into it to see If the same box will fit. 

 

Been half tempted to just build a square box for the 8 and throw it under the seat just so I don't have to pull the console. 

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Wakezilla
Wakezilla

Ok, I finally got my system installed. I have a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab with Bose.  It hits hard and deep and clean.  I did not want to fork out the $1500 for the JL Stealthbox with 2 of their thin 12

hardloaf
hardloaf

I've uploaded video to youtube - I think this works better than pictures. GM Sub, installed

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

I had my own made...fits right inside the factory box under seat.  Just factory BOSE with a little extra 12in kick in the back.     

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Darren Hines New Member

Darren Hines

Posted
Posted

Hello peeps great forum - just bought my Kicker sub and am in the middle of the install - I have a 2019 non-bose Silverado.  I have located the 28 pin connector and I get the splicing bit about connecting the brown and green wires.... the part Im not sure of is the OTHER end of the harness near where it connects to the sub and amp ALSO has a 2-wire connector with brown and green wires.  Where does this end plug into?  I only see the amp and sub connection.  Is it optional for some sort of other external amp?  If so that doesn't seem to make sense as you are literally connecting the other end of the brown and green wires to that 28-pin connector up by the kick panel.  

 

Also for what its worth I found it much simpler to route the wire harness down the passenger side of the truck and in behind the rear seats.  (instead of going under the passenger seat and over to the drivers seat under the carpet as the manual says)

 

Thanks in advance.

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted

Take a pic of the 2 harnesses your talking about. When I installed the amp and sub in my 15 that connection was already tapped in the 28 pin plug so all you have to do is plug in the brown and green wires.


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Darren Hines New Member

Darren Hines

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, Jaychevy81 said:

Take a pic of the 2 harnesses your talking about. When I installed the amp and sub in my 15 that connection was already tapped in the 28 pin plug so all you have to do is plug in the brown and green wires.


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Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted
 
20200223_145956_resized.thumb.jpg.16b616c0df4895dddc2cc782fa609173.jpg
20200223_150006_resized.thumb.jpg.ed9ad54e30cd394af726db86de59b730.jpg

Yes same connectors when you buy the sub and processor that mounts by the ebrake. They tap the connector for you in that main 28 pin harness. So all you have to do is plug those together.


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Darren Hines New Member

Darren Hines

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, Jaychevy81 said:


Yes same connectors when you buy the sub and processor that mounts by the ebrake. They tap the connector for you in that main 28 pin harness. So all you have to do is plug those together.


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Ok got it thanks.  So back up to the kickplate area - I am connecting the green and brown to the blue and brown/blue wires in this grey connector correct?  Seems strange again that the harness comes with these 2 red plug in ends that I have to cut off.

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Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted
Ok got it thanks.  So back up to the kickplate area - I am connecting the green and brown to the blue and brown/blue wires in this grey connector correct?  Seems strange again that the harness comes with these 2 red plug in ends that I have to cut off.
20200223_152311_resized.thumb.jpg.6ab97e85e6b7651b5ebe99532e50e1c8.jpg

Do you have another connector like the one in the pic to plug into? On the 28 pin is there another plug with the green and brown wires. Meaning is there anywhere to unplug that tail and just plug it in instead of splicing it. When I did the 15 install I didn’t have to tap anywhere into the factory wiring. Granted it may have changed with the 19 but the instructions wasn’t that clear. Reason being you can do the sub only and then you have to tap into the harness if the truck.


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drob999 Enthusiast

drob999

Posted
Posted

I am researching this for my 20 Silverado with Bose, still not clear if this is an add on to the Bose sub or a replacement?

TimC12 New Member

TimC12

Posted
Posted

Hello all.  New to the forum and just ordered a 2020 Trail Boss Custom Crew Cab (non-Bose  IOR Infotainment).  I'm interested in the Kicker 19417165 kit but the dealer just quoted $1700 to purchase and install.  Seems high.  Has anyone purchased this recently online for less than the MSRP of $1249?  From reading the thread it sounds like a decent system for the audio upgrade.  Thanks!

truck_newbie Enthusiast

truck_newbie

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, TimC12 said:

Hello all.  New to the forum and just ordered a 2020 Trail Boss Custom Crew Cab (non-Bose  IOR Infotainment).  I'm interested in the Kicker 19417165 kit but the dealer just quoted $1700 to purchase and install.  Seems high.  Has anyone purchased this recently online for less than the MSRP of $1249?  From reading the thread it sounds like a decent system for the audio upgrade.  Thanks!

Yeah, that is very high. Kit alone is $1k from shopchevyparts so they are charging a lot for install. Honestly, if you are willing to spend that much, you should consider going the custom route. The thread below has a lot of good info going the custom route.

 

TimC12 New Member

TimC12

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the feedback.  I was looking at shopchevyparts  but I read some reviews of that site and it doesn't sound like a legit business.  Has anyone ordered from them and received the parts?  $1k seems like a good deal for the Kicker Sub/Amp kit if I know I will get it in a reasonable time frame from this site.   Looks like it is $1250 everywhere else.

truck_newbie Enthusiast

truck_newbie

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, TimC12 said:

Thanks for the feedback.  I was looking at shopchevyparts  but I read some reviews of that site and it doesn't sound like a legit business.  Has anyone ordered from them and received the parts?  $1k seems like a good deal for the Kicker Sub/Amp kit if I know I will get it in a reasonable time frame from this site.   Looks like it is $1250 everywhere else.

Well, i don't know which reviews you read but shopchevyparts is a real site. That's where i ordered my regular kicker sub from last year. 

Jim E Enthusiast

Jim E

Posted
Posted

shopchevyparts is a real site as noted.  There are several topics here at gm-trucks where people have ordered and gotten the parts.

 

I've ordered from them in the past as well.  No issues.

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted (edited)

Put mine in yesterday, also bought from shopchevyparts.

 

54914948-890C-4875-AC99-FA8623289152.thumb.jpeg.689123b4fd6fa28d66dd9815ad276adc.jpeg

 

I’d like to shake the hand of the guy who said they installed it in an hour. I was in it for about 2 hours and sweating like a pig. Could have shaved 5 minutes off if I had a deep well 10mm socket to get the jack out and back in. You know how 10mm sockets disappear. Had to use a wrench.
 

Wiring was fine. I actually had the yellow and yellow/ black wires the book called for so that was good. My brain might call for me pulling that kick panel off again to replace the tee taps with soldered connections but for now it’s fine.

 

Sound wise, it’s okay. I got the little knob thingy and have played around with the setup for a few nights now.
 

First, I can’t see how anyone would use it without the knob because when I tried it with the knob unplugged, the thing was just as obnoxious as could be. What’s worse, the noise cancellation was pumping engine sounds through the sub at full gain! Sounded outrageous and I thought my exhaust sprang a leak.


With the knob there’s none of that, but it doesn’t seem to really hit very hard at anything under half volume. The knob at max is nowhere near full gain without the knob, so it seems. Obviously I don’t want 100% but a little more would be nice...

 

It came with #1 dip switch up, 2&3 down, 4,5,6 up. I put all 6 up to get a little more sound out of it, but as of now I can say I’m not really blown away with this thing. It’s better than nothing at giving the door speakers a little break, but it’s not exactly what I hoped for. 
 

Now debating if I should try some bass blockers in the doors so I can turn the bass up on the head unit’s EQ. Right now running the EQ flat. Not sure how to find the sweet spot on this deal.

Edited by OnTheReel
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