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Oil Recommendation

Stonehenge

By Stonehenge
in Engines & Drivetrain

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AtlasFBG2 Enthusiast

AtlasFBG2

Posted
Posted
On 3/28/2019 at 10:06 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

Added AMSOIL to this spread sheet.

 

Universal Averages and AMSOIL are 5W30.

 

Red Line is 0W20. Running lighter if also running colder isn't hurting wear metals at all. That said if one insist on the 207 F thermostat and no additional controlled coolers then 5W30 makes perfect sense. If I had a 5.3...I'd run 5W30 OR install more cooler OR lower the thermostat set point. Lot's of ways to skin the cat and make it work. 

OilLabs2.png

Grumpy Bear

 

Here is uao on the ecotech 4.3 v6 using Penzoil Platnium. The miles are low on the engine. Blackstone list slightly different universal averages on the 4.3 v6 than what you have posted for the ecotech 5.3 v8

 

full-39399-16216-16_silverado_uoa.jpg

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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, AtlasFBG2 said:

Grumpy Bear

 

Here is uao on the ecotech 4.3 v6 using Penzoil Platnium. The miles are low on the engine. Blackstone list slightly different universal averages on the 4.3 v6 than what you have posted for the ecotech 5.3 v8

 

 

Thanks. I'll update my sheet. 

 

The more samples I see the more comfortable I'm getting with Peppers results and the more I fall in love with Red Line. What Dyson found alarming Blackstone sees as 'in the ball park'. Funny how the alarmist who howl at the moon over Direct Fuel Injection concern over fuel dilution are taken back step when the results are in. Labs don't seem to confirm the concerns nor are the water levels alarming at 1,000 ppm  (0.1%). Looks like I could put my K&N back in service as well. Silicon levels are fine. 

 

This is what I get for a knee jerk reaction to 'expert' advice WITHOUT or in absence of a statistical point of reference. Sad part is I know better and fell for it anyway. 

 

SO much for 'MODERN MOTORS DON'T REQUIRE A BREAKIN'. Seems labs say other AGAIIN. 

 

Hillwood Enthusiast

Hillwood

Posted
Posted

How many of you have had an engine failure directly related to the brand of oil you used? Any documented cases?

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, Hillwood said:

How many of you have had an engine failure directly related to the brand of oil you used? Any documented cases?

Well which is it? Do you want personal experiences or documented cases and what exactly will you accept as documentation? 

Looks like a question looking for a fight. :shakehead:

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

What do you think kills the most motors/transmissions/diffs?

 

1.) Poor Engineering 

2.) Materials defects and workmanship. 

3.) Mechanical failures due to  ignorant operator. Over-speeding, Overloading. Beat it like a Red Headed Stepchild. 

4.) Inadequate lubrication maintenance. To long OCI, overheating/over cooling the oil, running out of oil. 

5.) Poor choices of lubricants and filtration. Poor quality or wrong grade.

 

:lurk:

 

 

 

 

Mike GMC Enthusiast

Mike GMC

Posted
Posted

Nice one Grumpy.  I'll play.  I'm going to say 3 and 4 combined account for at least 85% of all failures.

 

I've used Redline in my T56 since the first time I changed it (19 years ago).  The have a specific blend for that trans that works flawlessly.  They also make the best power steering fluid.  Changing over to Redline has "saved" at least 3 PS pumps that I was about to change.  It might even be able quiet a Ford PS pump, but I'm not sure that's possible.  I would use it in the engines as well but I have no convenient local place to get it.  If it can be mail ordered like Amsoil, I may have to look at that as an option.  I have no complaints with Amsoil though so I may just stick with it except for the applications I listed above.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

Well Mike that would be my guess too. I've seen motors killed off in some very creative ways but you know what I've never EVER seen? A motor expire from using to fine an oil and servicing it too often. 

 

If it were truly a metals problem or an engineering issue no oil in the world will save it. Best oil in the world wont keep a floated valve from biting a piston or overloading from tossing a rod. You can even screw up pretty bad in your oil and filter choices but a lack of maintenance will kill it just as dead as no oil at all. Just takes a bit longer. 

 

Most motors that use oil heavy use oil because the rings are stuck and once stuck, good luck getting them unstuck. Track day cars get oil changed every outing but a guy towing Mt. Everest across Death Valley at 100 mph feels 15,000 miles is likely to soon to change his. Run with a hole out for a month. Stick a thermostat closed and drive it home then do nothing but change the stat. Run with it stuck open for a month in the winter cause your only five miles to work. Run a $5 filter for 10,000 plus miles. Cheap out on the oil or decide by which one has the best rebates. Run two quarts low as a general rule.

 

My favorite is. "Oil these days are designed to run 250F plus".  Hey Mobil claims 500F. 

 

You can make a motor run along time on cheap oil and filters IF you change it like your socks and treat the motor with some respect. You can make it last longer than the remainder of the truck will last if you use top shelf lubrication and filtration and again show it some love. But you can put the best oil and filter in the world in her and believe that makes oil changes optional and gives your free reign in operation and kill it PDQ.  

 

 

 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

Did you know that a 5W20 and a 5W30 use the same base oil viscosity? That the viscosity improvers PREVENT THINNING! They do not thicken the oil? That the FACT there is more VIS improver in the 5W30 than the 5W20 and it is the VIS improvement package that shear thins, not the base oil. There is the LESS VIS additive in a 0W20 as there is in a 5W30. That the difference between the HTHS numbers is so small between these two that it would be like spitting into the ocean and then claiming the tide is higher. True but hardly worth the mention. :shakehead::shakehead:

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Thanks. I'll update my sheet. 

 

The more samples I see the more comfortable I'm getting with Peppers results and the more I fall in love with Red Line. What Dyson found alarming Blackstone sees as 'in the ball park'. Funny how the alarmist who howl at the moon over Direct Fuel Injection concern over fuel dilution are taken back step when the results are in. Labs don't seem to confirm the concerns nor are the water levels alarming at 1,000 ppm  (0.1%). Looks like I could put my K&N back in service as well. Silicon levels are fine. 

 

This is what I get for a knee jerk reaction to 'expert' advice WITHOUT or in absence of a statistical point of reference. Sad part is I know better and fell for it anyway. 

 

SO much for 'MODERN MOTORS DON'T REQUIRE A BREAKIN'. Seems labs say other AGAIIN. 

 

I was wondering myself about those numbers you posted?  Not the universal averages I have from Blackstone?  Run 0W20 actually three different brands of leftovers and I wouldn't run anything other than 0W-20 less wear, better miles to gallon ...great water...no gluten!  I want more..........0W-20

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted
On 3/29/2019 at 5:15 AM, ducklawyer said:

There again Grumpy opens a new door (like going thru the wardrobe in chronicles of narnia). So what’s the consensus on using 0w20, or more specifically the 5w-30 on these afm motors?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Absolutely use the 0W20....Less wear, more MPG's nuff said!

kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted

 I've been running the 0~w40 synthetic euro car spec oil with good results. Don't see how this can harm the engine especially when it is recommended now in the LT based Camaros & vette's. Seems to maintain oil pressure better when hot & does not look like dirty water when I change it, still has the resemblance of lubricant. Not sure of the real world mileage gains from 0~w20. I live in a warmer climate with mild winters so cold viscosity is not as much of a concern (It's not freezing here in the sanctuary state).

Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted

I’m a Redline fan. I run it in my ctsv and Harley. It’s always given me the best lab results with Royal Purple being a close 2nd. 

 

With that said though I don’t run it in my truck. Don’t see the need for an expensive oil like that in my truck when anything off the shelf is more than adequate. 

Hillwood Enthusiast

Hillwood

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Well which is it? Do you want personal experiences or documented cases and what exactly will you accept as documentation? 

Looks like a question looking for a fight. :shakehead:

Well, it is just speculation here on what oil to use..  Would it not be better to discuss what oil not to use because of a known problem it caused?  

 

I'm not trying to sling oil here. 

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