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Oil Recommendation


Stonehenge

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Posted
15 hours ago, Doublebase said:

Imagine someone running shorter drive cycles, what their fuel dilution could be? 2.4% is probably still at acceptable limits with a chance of effecting viscosity I guess, not sure. 

Perhaps you missed the point that this sample was indeed taken on a very cold day 15 minutes run time on the motor. Wasn't even fully warm yet and in cold mode. It was a mistake. My fist sample. Still Blackstone gives a 'normal' level of anything less then 2%. She's good. Something I think many don't know is it takes about a hour at fully warm to drive the moisture and fuel from your oil. Doesn't matter if you have a 180 stat or a 207 stat. This particular day I woke up late for my oil appointment. 

 

You also don't need to heat the oil above the boiling point of water to drive it from oil. If that were true your grandmother would have never gotten the laundry dry. Anything over 160 F for an hour works just fine. 

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Posted

Wow an hour. My old truck has never been driven over 1/2 hour the eight years I’ve owned it. My wife’s Genesis rarely gets driven the same time period in the last five. The Acura in 15 years. I’m glad I’m not as ocd anymore.?


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Posted
5 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

Wow an hour. My old truck has never been driven over 1/2 hour the eight years I’ve owned it. My wife’s Genesis rarely gets driven the same time period in the last five. The Acura in 15 years. I’m glad I’m not as ocd anymore.?


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LOL you don't have to get it all out, just kept under 0.1% (1,000 ppm). Bone dry is anal OCD. Even I'm not that OCD...okay, maybe I am. :rolleyes:

Posted
LOL you don't have to get it all out, just kept under 0.1% (1,000 ppm). Bone dry is anal OCD. Even I'm not that OCD...okay, maybe I am. :rolleyes:

My old truck has a very cold thermostat for the blower. I often wonder if that’s the reason of its oil usage.


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Posted

At 15 MPG and gas prices that average close to $3 a gallon year round for 87 octane is it beneficial to spend $12 a quart for oil?

 

The gas content in oil today compared to carburetor days has to be less.

When I moved to Colorado in 1985 I had a 1977 pickup with the carbed 350.

Going over Eisenhower tunnel on I 70 with a loaded bed pulling a trailer it belched black smoke like a diesel with a bad fuel system.

I went down to 25 MPH.

That truck was running rich all the time here.

More so when taken into the mountains of course.

I got 8- 10 MPG out that truck.

Put a boat behind it and it was 5-6 MPG in the mountains.

 

:)

 

 

Posted
47 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

At 15 MPG and gas prices that average close to $3 a gallon year round for 87 octane is it beneficial to spend $12 a quart for oil?

:)

I figured wrong in the earlier post, tired. must have multiplied when I should have divided: Let me try again.

 

OCI 5,000 miles / 24 mpg = 208.33 gallons at $3 per gallon = $625

OCI 5,000 miles / 28 mpg = 178.57 gallons at $3 per gallon = $535.7

Difference = $89.30 in fuel savings / 6 quarts = $14.88 a quart. That's the savings per quart in my case. I'm changing the oil anyway so just the difference in fuel cost makes it worth it $$$$ wise...in my case

 

The other question within your question is about 'benefit'. Other than cost do I benefit? Asked and answered. Lower wear, lower temperatures, longer life...yea...I'd say I benefit. 

 

(I went back and edited the earlier post)

 

 

58 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

Wow an hour. My old truck has never been driven over 1/2 hour the eight years I’ve owned it. My wife’s Genesis rarely gets driven the same time period in the last five. The Acura in 15 years. I’m glad I’m not as ocd anymore.?

You don't have to drive it an hour at temp, it has to be at temp an hour. Hot soak is part of that time. Pretty important to get it fully warmed for the trip planned more times than it isn't. 

Posted
On 3/31/2019 at 9:45 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

I'm just west of Chicago and run a 180 F. It was GM's gold standard for over 50 years. I have plenty of heat. Warms quickly. Oil runs around 198 F winter, 208-210 F summer. Computers is happy as a clam at high tide. Perfect....Just say' n. However if that seems to cold you could use the GM 197 F unit mentioned several times in this thread. It won't hurt a thing. 10 degrees in the right direction. 

Grumpy bear

 

My scan tool does not show oil pressure or oil temperature.

 

It does show coolant temperature which on the drive home from work read between 192 and 199 degrees Fahrenheit. Dash gauge read about 210 f. Truck does have the factory towing package. Not sure if anything is different on the coolant system with tow package.

Posted
4 hours ago, AtlasFBG2 said:

Grumpy bear

 

My scan tool does not show oil pressure or oil temperature.

 

It does show coolant temperature which on the drive home from work read between 192 and 199 degrees Fahrenheit. Dash gauge read about 210 f. Truck does have the factory towing package. Not sure if anything is different on the coolant system with tow package.

IMHO if you can't see the oil pressure and oil temperature the ECU is working with then your flying blind. Stay with your OEM recommended. 

 

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

 

I just ran across this today. Note what it says under ring wear. Especially the notes on viscosity vs temperature and you will see why 'eyes' in the motor are so important if your going to stray from the factory recommendations. 

Posted

Here it is FOLKS.....0W-20 ran as HOT AND LONG AS I LIKE IN PHOENIX, AZ  the last change was 3qty different 0W-20's  Mobil,Amsoil and Quaker State.  I go by price really? Which is why I was using  3qty different mfg's I had laying around.  I got the Amsoil at a discounted price so I used it? 

 

Well, the first report was displayed for you "goofballs" only thing I heard was...your killing the engine?  Look at that Copper?  DYSON,DYSON...Terry DYSON NEEDS TO DO YOUR ANALYSIS...yeah OK?

Let us fast forward to now......like this is my first time in a WAL-MART?

 

I will probably go single digits on Iron within next 2qty oil changes.  I will probably drop the copper down into the teens low 20's....finally...just about settled in?  All of these numbers exceed the "universal averages"

So..I guess this Ol' Cogger ain't gonna be blowing up da engine Hey?  Grumps....Check the TBN's  you like that?  I can go 10-12K all day in this heat...actually?  I think it likes it & I like 0W-20 too!

 

Honestly, this is for us Americans using our liberties and hopefully learning from one another which is made possible on the Internet....I did input the 49,614 number as Blackstone never entered it back in the day? 

 

20190402_181124_002.jpg

1881139-2.jpg

Posted
4 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

IMHO if you can't see the oil pressure and oil temperature the ECU is working with then your flying blind. Stay with your OEM recommended. 

 

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

 

I just ran across this today. Note what it says under ring wear. Especially the notes on viscosity vs temperature and you will see why 'eyes' in the motor are so important if your going to stray from the factory recommendations. 

How do you upload pictures now?

Posted

Copper, Pepper 4.80 ppm/1K miles              Copper, Mook   5.52 ppm/1K miles

Iron, Pepper 2.40 ppm/1K miles                    Iron, Mook   1.56 ppm/1K miles

Alum, Pepper 0.40 ppm/1Kmiles                  Alum, Mook   0.48 ppm//1Kmiles

Vis Pepper 8.5                                                  Vis Mook   7.9

 

Blackstone likes it use ppm per thousand miles as a benchmark for were. That's the only reason I broke it out that way. Seems a fair standard for comparisons for differing OCI values don't you think? 

 

Ya know what's impressive? Your fuel and water dilution numbers are off the hook. What was that again about DI motors and crazy fuel dilution values? :rolleyes: I like data. Keeps the Trolls in check. Good job sir.

 

Yea Mook, I like your TBN. Your less than 5K miles behind me. Ever consider tanking a 5K sample? BTW, what does Blackstone charge for this level of service? You don't run any enhanced cooling do you? 

Posted
9 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Copper, Pepper 4.80 ppm/1K miles              Copper, Mook   5.52 ppm/1K miles

Iron, Pepper 2.40 ppm/1K miles                    Iron, Mook   1.56 ppm/1K miles

Alum, Pepper 0.40 ppm/1Kmiles                  Alum, Mook   0.48 ppm//1Kmiles

Vis Pepper 8.5                                                  Vis Mook   7.9

 

Blackstone likes it use ppm per thousand miles as a benchmark for were. That's the only reason I broke it out that way. Seems a fair standard for comparisons for differing OCI values don't you think? 

 

Ya know what's impressive? Your fuel and water dilution numbers are off the hook. What was that again about DI motors and crazy fuel dilution values? :rolleyes: I like data. Keeps the Trolls in check. Good job sir.

 

Yea Mook, I like your TBN. Your less than 5K miles behind me. Ever consider tanking a 5K sample? BTW, what does Blackstone charge for this level of service? You don't run any enhanced cooling do you? 

Nice Breakdown!  I still do think that DI engines are more apt to fuel dilution...I am also taking a BOX of MORTON SALT with Blackstone's Fuel% numbers for a number of reasons.  I have seen your thread on the Cooling/MPG's interesting no doubt.  I was worried when I bought Truck about Cooling issues and how to combat.  I have not seen anything to warrant it though and GM does like these engines on the hotter side.  Plus, adding extra fittings and hoses accessories electrical draw etc.etc. I am already cooking the battery like clockwork every 14-15 months?  

 

My reason for Catch Can install was mainly for fuel dilution.  I am a hardcore BG proponent and keep my DI system "CLEAN" seems to be working?  I will probably never take a 5K sample if I am looking good at 10K+ during winter and Summer?  Blackstone charges extra 7.00-8.00$  for total 38.00$ ish?

 

If I keep trending like I am...I might possibly have a engine outlast a FERD engineered engine?  LOL....god I can't stand FERD! 

Posted
14 hours ago, mookdoc6 said:

How do you upload pictures now?

I put the photo on my desktop (PC). Click choose files. Select desktop. Scroll to picture I want. Double click on it. Done. 

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