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Oil Recommendation

Stonehenge

By Stonehenge
in Engines & Drivetrain

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Doublebase Enthusiast

Doublebase

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Simple, full synthetic isn’t 100% synthetic. They’re all using the word “synthetic” which did its job, sold you as much as you can carry. Only AMSOIL is 100% synthetic. Ever wonder why race cars from all arenas use 100% synthetic? Cause it’s the only oil that protects their vehicles in extreme conditions. Any other name brand will be the exact same but only 100% synthetic not Full Synthetic. Take some time and look into it, huge difference between the two.

100% Synthetic
4222b2d8f89485b72aab4d0abe35e5e8.jpg

Highest amount synthetic but not even half
e65c06d6664aee2df81fe6befcaa9e60.jpg


Sent from above

 

You didn't answer my question, is Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1, bad oil? And Howe many miles do you go between oil changes. Simple.

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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
You didn't answer my question, is Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1, bad oil? And Howe many miles do you go between oil changes. Simple.


No, it’s not bad oil but the problem is once someone associates the “full synthetic” with their oil purchase they think it’s the 10k mike oil change, it’s not. The most expensive Mobil1 off the shelve is the Ultimate Full Synthetic which says 1year protection which again is misleading because some people up north only put 5K miles on their vehicles while others will put triple that.

Today’s motors require the thinnest available in order to lubricate areas thicker oil can’t get to and thinner oil will burn and break down much faster if it’s not 100% synthetic.

If you’re happy with your choice then that’s your choice but not all Oil is created equal and especially don’t trust BS advertising not informing us what’s in it other than 5 different “Full Synthetic” Mobil1 oil containers all better than the other and yet all are “Full Synthetic”. Ok, I’m done. Good luck and God Bless




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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

Answer to your question: Break down can occur at anytime between 10-20K miles with Amsoil. I will be changing my oil every 5K miles with Amsoil and the reason why so soon is cause it’s my choice and because I can. [emoji3577]




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Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, 3tspapat said:

I just haven't been getting great service at any of the dealerships around here (other than Audi or Lexus). Infiniti ended up not doing the work they said they would do and then also left various fluid caps off and didn't ever bother to wipe down the engine area at all. Thing was filthy after a year. Oh...and the gmc dealership...well they crashed my truck when it had like maybe 600 or 700 miles on it...once bitten 10000x shy now. I just do my own crap and track it all. 

and for grumpy bear...excellent info as usual...but first time reading anything you post always makes me scratch my head until there's a bald spot.

Man I had a dealer to that to me and my CTSV a week after I bought it.  Dropped it off for a complimentary detail and to look at something under warranty.  They call me the next day and say its ready.  When I picked it up, it hadn't been washed and had a little over 300 more miles on it then when I dropped it off.  300 miles in a day!!!!  That means the service guys were handing the car off to each other to drive around.  I laid into the service advisor and got a hold of the owner of the dealer and had the service advisor fired.  Always take a pic of your odometer before you drop off at a dealer

Doublebase Enthusiast

Doublebase

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Answer to your question: Break down can occur at anytime between 10-20K miles with Amsoil. I will be changing my oil every 5K miles with Amsoil and the reason why so soon is cause it’s my choice and because I can. emoji3577.png




Sent from above

So you're spending an extra $50-$60 for the exact same oil change interval as I am (because you can, I know). Lol. So let's say we both drive 25,000 miles a year for 10 years (5 oil changes a year, for the next ten years....you just spent an extra $2,500). 

 

  I never really understood why people hate Amsoil so much, now I do. ?

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Doublebase said:
So you're spending an extra $50-$60 for the exact same oil change interval as I am (because you can, I know). Lol. So let's say we both drive 25,000 miles a year for 10 years (5 oil changes a year, for the next ten years....you just spent an extra $2,500). 
 
I never really understood why people hate Amsoil so much, now I do. [emoji3]

 


You actuality “hate” Amsoil cause it’s been tested the best for engine protection?? You just keep on buying your 3$ oil and leave Amsoil to us. People spend tens of thousands$$$ for upgrades or a few thousands on bullet proofing their motors, why not. I don’t keep vehicles that long but at the least I know I’ll never have any issues from using cheap 3$ oil. Who the he’ll buys a $60K vehicle just to feed it Walmart oil? That’s Sick and seriously sad but hey, to each their own and again why I’ve never bought a used vehicle and never will. I’ve got a line of people that drive me crazy as soon as they hear I’m trading up or bored.

I will agree though, AMSOIL isn’t for everyone and you won’t find it anywhere in your Sunday family time newspaper clippings but if you do.


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Nitrousbird Enthusiast

Nitrousbird

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, SS502 said:

Do you run with AFM enabled? Not questioning your choice of oil brand, I’ve heard more than once about people moving to 5W20 but you’re the only one (but I’m sure there are many) I’ve seen moving to the 5W30. Would you share your reasoning without thinking I’m disputing your choice? I learn something every single day and knowledge is the key to life IMO. Thanks!! 

Yes, I run AFM.  Why that viscosity?  Check the Vette's owners manual for the LT1.  Almost an identical motor to the L86, yet calls for 5W30.  Hell, the '18 manual for the LT1 in the Camaro SS allows 0W40 and 5W40.  AFM motors as well.

 

0W20 is to meet CAFE standards and nothing more.  

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

GM recommends 5W30 for the 4.3 Ecotec3 motors but I run Red Line 0W20 year around. 

 

The data offered uses the Blackstone Labs Universal Averages for 5657 samples for the GM 5.3 on OCI's of 5,657 miles average. This is a solid comparison as the 4.3 and 5.3 are the same platform. Dyson hasn't a library on this motor. At least one Terry shared with me.  

 

Pepper had 80,000 miles on the clock when this sample was taken. 

 

Important note that I mention every time this conversation comes up. She has a 180 F thermostat, not the 207 F and oil temperatures run 20/25 F colder than factory equipment average. 198 to 205 F.  I would NEVER run a *W20 as hot as the factory sends them. I wouldn't run 30W that hot...but that's just me. 

 

Maybe someone will find this share useful if not thought provoking. :seeya:

 

 

 

 

OilLabs.png

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
45 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

Yes, I run AFM.  Why that viscosity?  Check the Vette's owners manual for the LT1.  Almost an identical motor to the L86, yet calls for 5W30.  Hell, the '18 manual for the LT1 in the Camaro SS allows 0W40 and 5W40.  AFM motors as well.

 

0W20 is to meet CAFE standards and nothing more.  

No I don’t have to, you answered my questions and I thank you :thumbs:

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
55 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

0W20 is to meet CAFE standards and nothing more.  

Added AMSOIL to this spread sheet.

 

Universal Averages and AMSOIL are 5W30.

 

Red Line is 0W20. Running lighter if also running colder isn't hurting wear metals at all. That said if one insist on the 207 F thermostat and no additional controlled coolers then 5W30 makes perfect sense. If I had a 5.3...I'd run 5W30 OR install more cooler OR lower the thermostat set point. Lot's of ways to skin the cat and make it work. 

OilLabs2.png

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Added AMSOIL to this spread sheet.
 
Universal Averages and AMSOIL are 5W30.
 
Red Line is 0W20. Running lighter if also running colder isn't hurting wear metals at all. That said if one insist on the 207 F thermostat and no additional controlled coolers then 5W30 makes perfect sense. If I had a 5.3...I'd run 5W30 OR install more cooler OR lower the thermostat set point. Lot's of ways to skin the cat and make it work. 
OilLabs2.png.30b415125604f2b22859abd391d12fbe.png


Hey Grumpy, where do you purchase Redline?


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kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted

Just a comment- Mobil1 changed it's formula a few years back(maybe a long while back). Used to be good stuff, was working too well I guess, things weren't wearing out like they were supposed to.  I don't run it anymore. That said any of the premium synthetics will do. just I don't buy the 0~w20 for 10~15k mi for a minute.

 

I guess I'm stupid cause I'll run any synthetic(castrol, Royal purp,etc..) 0~w40 and change it at 4~5k mi with the best filter I can get my hands on (wix, k&n, Mobil1,Delco) The 0~w20 stuff looked like black water at 5k mi. Just kinda scared me.

 

 People forget a lot of what dirties the oil, (air filtration and blowby) still dirties the oil no matter what you use. 8 quarts is the higher capacity to hold more dirt. Engines that last like clean oil that's not broken down.

 

Seems like a lot of folks prefer the amsoil. I'm tempted to try it out, can't hurt just takes a little more effort to get than going and getting Walmart's finest on the shelf. I don't have a local contact.

 

Thank you to those who mentioned about the esther based oils and the 100% synthetic comments. From what I've researched over the years they are true statements. In bikes I run motul 300v which is a 100% pure esther synthetic. one of my engine builders look inside a bike of mine (is an industry expert in his field) and said it was the cleanest engine that showed the least amount of wear he had ever seen. Just to reiterate it's all about your program and knowing what works and what a correct schedule is. not just following mfg recommendations. There is more to it than that and you have to be intelligent about your approach. really comes down to how YOU like to maintain YOUR vehicle. 

 

Last I would really only go by mileage and use conditions - time as an indicator only if it's been a while and you have some type of weather conditions that dictate that you need to change your oil. I'll say it and sure I'll tick people off but -don't care what kind of oil you use - high mileage oil changes using low viscosity oil is for dummies - there I said it. Especially if it's dinosaur based oil X2 stupid.

 

Best case scenario - get the best oil that you think is good and change it often/early if you plan on keeping your truck or like it to run well.

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Just a comment- Mobil1 changed it's formula a few years back(maybe a long while back). Used to be good stuff, was working too well I guess, things weren't wearing out like they were supposed to.  I don't run it anymore. That said any of the premium synthetics will do. just I don't buy the 0~w20 for 10~15k mi for a minute.

 

I guess I'm stupid cause I'll run any synthetic(castrol, Royal purp,etc..) 0~w40 and change it at 4~5k mi with the best filter I can get my hands on (wix, k&n, Mobil1,Delco) The 0~w20 stuff looked like black water at 5k mi. Just kinda scared me.

 

 People forget a lot of what dirties the oil, (air filtration and blowby) still dirties the oil no matter what you use. 8 quarts is the higher capacity to hold more dirt. Engines that last like clean oil that's not broken down.

 

Seems like a lot of folks prefer the amsoil. I'm tempted to try it out, can't hurt just takes a little more effort to get than going and getting Walmart's finest on the shelf. I don't have a local contact.

 

Thank you to those who mentioned about the esther based oils and the 100% synthetic comments. From what I've researched over the years they are true statements. In bikes I run motul 300v which is a 100% pure esther synthetic. one of my engine builders look inside a bike of mine (is an industry expert in his field) and said it was the cleanest engine that showed the least amount of wear he had ever seen. Just to reiterate it's all about your program and knowing what works and what a correct schedule is. not just following mfg recommendations. There is more to it than that and you have to be intelligent about your approach. really comes down to how YOU like to maintain YOUR vehicle. 

 

Last I would really only go by mileage and use conditions - time as an indicator only if it's been a while and you have some type of weather conditions that dictate that you need to change your oil. I'll say it and sure I'll tick people off but -don't care what kind of oil you use - high mileage oil changes using low viscosity oil is for dummies - there I said it. Especially if it's dinosaur based oil X2 stupid.

 

Best case scenario - get the best oil that you think is good and change it often/early if you plan on keeping your truck or like it to run well.

 

Well said. Growing up I was really into my sports cars and making sure I had a strong running engine was important to me and the only way I could make sure if that was by changing my oil every 3K with 100% synthetic oils which were available back then and now it’s mostly about detergents that the newer engines are more so requiring especially in even more technology engineered built motors.

 

Talk to any real motor head and it’ll be said as close to 100% synthetic as possible will ensure the most reliability and having a well maintained engine through process of sooner rather then later is always the best option. I don’t keep vehicles as long as most but it’s never left me, keeping my engine clean is the best pro maintenance anyone can do but there are a large amount just focusing on squeezing out every penny they can as there’s nothing wrong with doing so there is when it comes to engine life. No different with our body, feeding our bodies healthy clean diet/fuel helps ensure longer life, engines are no different.

 

 

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