Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My truck in the mornings when I start to back out sounds like loose lug nuts in cap. But all are tight and on the studs. It does not do this after backing just a short ways. Any ideas?6d3d905a65979cb211d326b1c549787d.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Possible you are hearing the ABS self test.

 

I used to hear it all the time on some of previous GM vehicle, not so much or at all with my 2016. Though I haven't been listening for it.

Posted
Possible you are hearing the ABS self test.
 
I used to hear it all the time on some of previous GM vehicle, not so much or at all with my 2016. Though I haven't been listening for it.

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I get the same noise when turning to back into somewhere. I took my truck in and told them about this during an oil change. I even checked it before I pulled into the service department that morning. Well they changed the oil and rotated the tires then came and got me so I could test drive with their mechanic. It did not make the noise one single time. The advisor said it would be documented and I took off. I still hear it from time to time though.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, djw88 said:

wheel bearing dust cap is another thing to check.

 

Eh? These trucks have had sealed bearings for like 20 years.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, Lsgun1 said:

Eh? These trucks have had sealed bearings for like 20 years.

I think he means the little metal cap that GM puts over the CV nut on the front wheels. That shouldn't be loose since they are super tight from the factory with how they fit in there.

 

I would play with the parking brake maybe and see if it helps any. Does it do it regardless if it was cold or warm out? How about if it is humid or it just rained the night before? Maybe you have a little surface rust on the rotor but it is making noise when you first start to move. There should be no way your brake dust shields are rusting and making it come into contact with the rotors at your age so I would rule that one out.

 

Something I would check is that all of your brake bolts are nice and tight and that the pads are able to move freely. I would also suggest trying to gently ride your brakes when you back up instead of letting go of the brake. See if it makes any difference when the brakes are applied a little or not.

  • Like 1
Posted
31 minutes ago, kickass audio said:

I think he means the little metal cap that GM puts over the CV nut on the front wheels. That shouldn't be loose since they are super tight from the factory with how they fit in there.

 

I would play with the parking brake maybe and see if it helps any. Does it do it regardless if it was cold or warm out? How about if it is humid or it just rained the night before? Maybe you have a little surface rust on the rotor but it is making noise when you first start to move. There should be no way your brake dust shields are rusting and making it come into contact with the rotors at your age so I would rule that one out.

 

Something I would check is that all of your brake bolts are nice and tight and that the pads are able to move freely. I would also suggest trying to gently ride your brakes when you back up instead of letting go of the brake. See if it makes any difference when the brakes are applied a little or not.

Yes,  I mentioned it because it happened to a friend of mine. Couldn't figure out want the noise was turned out it was that cap. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I see you aren't in a northern salt state, but check your parking brake shoes.  We get tons of issues up here in NY with them, mostly on trucks where folks don't ever use the parking brake.  

  • Like 1
Posted
I think he means the little metal cap that GM puts over the CV nut on the front wheels. That shouldn't be loose since they are super tight from the factory with how they fit in there.
 
I would play with the parking brake maybe and see if it helps any. Does it do it regardless if it was cold or warm out? How about if it is humid or it just rained the night before? Maybe you have a little surface rust on the rotor but it is making noise when you first start to move. There should be no way your brake dust shields are rusting and making it come into contact with the rotors at your age so I would rule that one out.
 
Something I would check is that all of your brake bolts are nice and tight and that the pads are able to move freely. I would also suggest trying to gently ride your brakes when you back up instead of letting go of the brake. See if it makes any difference when the brakes are applied a little or not.

Weather has not been a factor that I know of as do not hear unless widows down. Only does after sitting all night never after driving and parking 4 or 5 hrs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
I see you aren't in a northern salt state, but check your parking brake shoes.  We get tons of issues up here in NY with them, mostly on trucks where folks don't ever use the parking brake.  
Just curious, (as I'm one that never used the parking brake in any of my automatic vehicles) what issue should I be concerned with by never using it?
Our is it a case of you useing it after not using it for a long time, and hanging up?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Posted

Cables will rust/stick in place, same with the brake mechanism inside the rear hub.  I also don't use the parking brake much, but I do periodically use it to stop the truck near my house, just to make sure they still work ok.

Posted

Parking brake isn't meant to physically slow the truck down. It is used for parking just like the name implies. Ever park on a hill and when you shift back to D you get the loud slam and its hard to move the shifter? That's cause you are resting on the parking pawl in the transmission because you didn't use the parking brake correctly. Proper use is get the truck where you want it, shift to N, apply parking brake and let off the foot brake. The parking brake will take the weight of the truck off the transmission, then shift to P. Anyways, good idea to use it on inclines whether they are large or small and it will insure that everything keeps moving.

Posted

I've had the same issue since almost new 9 months ago. It's a binding like sound when in reverse only. Kind of a popping noise. Does it most of the time but not all the time. Just shrugged my shoulders at it.

Posted
I've had the same issue since almost new 9 months ago. It's a binding like sound when in reverse only. Kind of a popping noise. Does it most of the time but not all the time. Just shrugged my shoulders at it.

That is it and only in morning. Can only hear if windows are down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line.    I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use.   If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight. 
    • Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.
    • I had a similar but different response when I talked to the service manager where I bought my truck in that he said GM corporate won't allow them to lower the placard pressure setting as they would get their hand slapped but that of course they have the ability to make that change. His suggestion was simply go to a tire dealer or third party shop that is willing to reset the pressures lower. However I chose to buy a tpms tool and partly based off of this very forum as it had been proven to work on the 2024 model ( Global B system ) and while I could have paid lots for a full two way diag tool, I didn't want to spend that much and bought the recommended Autel TS 508 and it will reprogram the 2025 model and assume it should do the 2026 as well. However the tool is rather proprietary to reprogramming Autel tpms sensors so that is a function I will never use, where as a real two way scanner would have many uses but also have yearly subscriptions etc where this 508 is free updates for as long as they put updates out for the unit. In any event it worked to lower the placard pressures and I often use it to adjust my actual tire pressures although will check with a mechanical gauge as well sometimes just to make sure that tires tpms sensor isn't lying to me.    My suggestion is either buy a tool that you know will work to adjust the system or start out by getting the tire shop you bought your tires from to reset your truck and if after that you still want a unit to do it yourself, get one at that point. 
    • Here is an image of a quick Google search about these tires on my truck and it's exactly same psi recommendation the Toyo tires company gave me!    I'm not looking for anyone else recommended psi or anything, I'm just looking to see if anyone knew a way to get rid of the factory low psi warning light, because I'm not running high psi and ruining my tires when I'm not towing! 
    • 60psi front and 80psi rear But I am not running the factory tire brand or size! it's load range F Toyo tires
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...