Jump to content

2019+ leveled trucks

jimmyboy8301
 Share

Recommended Posts

SSCHUU Enthusiast

SSCHUU

Posted
Posted
On 3/9/2021 at 3:07 AM, dram1983361 said:

On a 2wd it's not as critical since there is no front axle shaft that could potentially hit/rub on a bottom mount if you go with 2"+ lift blocks. You could go with either or both depending on how high you go. More than 3" I believe (someone who's done it correct me if I'm wrong) you will want to consider getting new upper control arms.

Bottom mounts are a little easier to install since you don't have to remove the struts. You should still get the alignment checked regardless of which type of level you use as well.

Makes sense. I appreciate the insight! Still trying to learn the ins and outs of this truck!

  • 5 months later...
  • Replies 537
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

BlackLS
BlackLS

1.5" Motofab leveling kit. I plan to run this spacer until BDS comes out with a 4" lift for the Trail Boss/AT4  

Bluerado23
Bluerado23

2” ready lift front only 315/70/17 ko2 17x9.5 wheels

asalinasz39
asalinasz39

Just a 1.5” in the front with motofab lower strut spacer. Still have 1” rake and stock duratracs 32.3” tall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted Images

Dylan199 Enthusiast

Dylan199

Posted
Posted

I have read through all 35 pages and didn't see the answer to a question I have. 

 

I have a 2020 Denali and just installed Motofab 1.5" front leveling blocks. The kit did not come with the ARC relocation bracket, nor is it shown anywhere on Motofabs site (other companies supply them with a 2" lift). My question is, do I need the brackets (I don't have any dash sensors lighting up) or will I be okay without them? I have called and emailed the company, but they are not responding. 

  • 2 weeks later...
bobboberton1 Enthusiast

bobboberton1

Posted
Posted

Looking for some help here: I have a 2019 crew LT z71. I want to level but avoid any nose up. Planning to do eibach adjustable shocks. My question is getting the level height right. When comparing to many on the threads (non trail boss or at4) my factory stance seems much different in existing rake and ride height. Currently ground to rear measures at 38 7/8 and front 37 3/4. Roughly 1 1/8” different. Same tire to fender rear 7 1/4 and front 6 1/2. I have about 20k mi so maybe some settling in. I’m concerned the adjustable setting on the shocks putting me at 1.7” could get me nose high. Of course I could add a block to the rear though trying to get it right with the front level. Were others this close on ride height and successful with a 1.5” or in this case 1.7” level? There is one lower setting on the eibach, but doesn’t seem right to do all the effort for .07”. Welcoming any helpful input here. Thank you. 

  • 2 weeks later...
malibu43 Enthusiast

malibu43

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone.  I just traded in my 2015 1500 4x4 for a 2021 Z71 RST.  We also recently purchased a 25ft travel trailer that I'll be pulling every month or so with this truck.

 

My old truck had 2" level, and at some point I'd like my new one to sit a little higher as well.  However, since I will be towing with it I want to maintain the factory rake (which is just under 2").  Even with the WD, the back end drops a little more than the front.

 

I was thinking of making the upgrade functional instead of just cosmetic and doing Blistien 5100's up front and setting them for a 1.5-2.0" level, rather than just adding spacers.  I was going to go with the 5100's for the rear as well to help with towing and adding a block as well to lift the same amount as the front.

 

Any issues with this approach, or is there another option I should be considering?  Is there a better option for the rear than the Blistien 5100's plus a block?

20210904_093615.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
On 9/22/2021 at 2:06 AM, Brandon Martin said:

Is it better to use the leveling "pucks" that go on top of the strut or the brackets on bottom?

If you are 4WD, then pucks that mount on top of the strut for sure.  If you are 2WD then the location is irrelevant.

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
On 9/21/2021 at 4:09 PM, malibu43 said:

Hey everyone.  I just traded in my 2015 1500 4x4 for a 2021 Z71 RST.  We also recently purchased a 25ft travel trailer that I'll be pulling every month or so with this truck.

 

My old truck had 2" level, and at some point I'd like my new one to sit a little higher as well.  However, since I will be towing with it I want to maintain the factory rake (which is just under 2").  Even with the WD, the back end drops a little more than the front.

 

I was thinking of making the upgrade functional instead of just cosmetic and doing Blistien 5100's up front and setting them for a 1.5-2.0" level, rather than just adding spacers.  I was going to go with the 5100's for the rear as well to help with towing and adding a block as well to lift the same amount as the front.

 

Any issues with this approach, or is there another option I should be considering?  Is there a better option for the rear than the Blistien 5100's plus a block?

20210904_093615.jpg

That will work fine.  Check out the Eibach Pro Truck lift.  It provides springs as well as shocks and the difference in handling is significant.  My truck pulls a trailer much nicer now and handles greater weights without the sway and pontoon effect.

mathnerd Enthusiast

mathnerd

Posted
Posted

This is my 2019 AT4 leveled with Bilstein 6112’s and 2” MotoFab top spacers. It initially was 3/4” high in the front but after 100 miles settled to perfectly level.

04E74569-96DF-49DC-91C1-BE0785B4968D.jpeg

  • Like 1
Seagate Life Enthusiast

Seagate Life

Posted
Posted
On 10/20/2021 at 1:47 PM, Bullseye07 said:

Has anyone done the fox 2.0 coilover kit? 

I tried to get a Fox 2.0 kit last month, but I couldn't find them in stock.  I ended up with Icon Stage 1 instead.  Extremely happy with ride quality and off road performance.  (I'm only 2WD, so nothing muddy or too difficult...just fast dirt trails)  It sits little high in front...maybe because it is 2WD and light in the nose, so I'm going to block it up 1" in the back.  

Bullseye07 Enthusiast

Bullseye07

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Seagate Life said:

I tried to get a Fox 2.0 kit last month, but I couldn't find them in stock.  I ended up with Icon Stage 1 instead.  Extremely happy with ride quality and off road performance.  (I'm only 2WD, so nothing muddy or too difficult...just fast dirt trails)  It sits little high in front...maybe because it is 2WD and light in the nose, so I'm going to block it up 1" in the back.  

I was originally planning on bilstein 6112s and 5160s but they’re out of stock everywhere. The fox 2.0 were only a little more and in stock so went ahead and ordered them. 

  • 2 weeks later...
fastk9dad Enthusiast

fastk9dad

Posted
Posted

Has anyone leveled an AT4 with rear shackles and has photos? I went through all 35 pages and only saw a few shackle levels but none were AT4s that I could tell.

85CJ Enthusiast

85CJ

Posted
Posted

I just purchased the 1 inch cognito leveling kit.  I know most of you want 1.5-2 inches, but for my eyes 1 inch looks right.  I will be installing later this week or weekend.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 681 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...