Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Easy to tell, wet pavement and better lighting all are after the swap. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Red_5 said:

Overall my experience with Battleborn was positive, I’d buy from them again based on that.

 

The main reason I went with Battleborn in the first place is that they’re a sponsor of this forum so I wanted to support those who support the forum. What do you mean about the warranty? Why would there be problem buying from Battleborn?

I agree which is why I originally ordered there, and mostly the price. However, at least with 4WP, i know the warranty will be backed up. Who knows if the people with two websites that are identical and who didn't respond to my order until a week after I canceled through my CC, two weeks after the original order. Not my type of business. 

Posted

My 6112s finally arrived 2 days late and apparently with inadequate packing material. These things sure are beefy.

55DA6B88-E33F-407A-BC4B-0798EBE54BED.jpeg

Posted
2 hours ago, Red_5 said:

My 6112s finally arrived 2 days late and apparently with inadequate packing material. These things sure are beefy.

55DA6B88-E33F-407A-BC4B-0798EBE54BED.jpeg

Yeah, when I opened mine up and held the strut of the 6112 against the 5100 I had for the rear, it was like wow. Tube is much stouter, springs are beefy. You sticking  with #4 setting and rear block? 

Posted
11 hours ago, Pivot said:

Yeah, when I opened mine up and held the strut of the 6112 against the 5100 I had for the rear, it was like wow. Tube is much stouter, springs are beefy. You sticking  with #4 setting and rear block? 

I was surprised by how much bigger they are than the 5160s I bought. 

 

Since these arrived late, I missed my window to install and can't now for about 2 weeks so I'll have more time to think about it. I bought the slightly larger blocks already so I'm still leaning toward the highest setting on the for the front.

 

Still liking yours?

Posted

Yes, 5160 is same as 5100, just adds a reservoir. 

 

Good luck waiting 2 weeks, you'll keep second guessing which setting. Don't think you can go wrong with 3rd or 4th setting. Can't recall if your end goal was larger tires or just to lift the front end/level. I think I would be happy either way. 

 

I'm still liking mine. I never liked how low the front end is on a high country with z60 suspension. 

 

I'm having a hell of a time trying to pick rims. Originally wanted Black with machined/blade cut/milled look. I think I have to much chrome and it might look odd. I don't want to start changing out nerf bars and door handles. Starting to think I can't go wrong with chrome wheels. Tons of conflicting info on what tire size will work. Hoping to save $$$ and order wheels, tires, tpms,lugs and balance online. I can go into it saying I'll make them fit. Removing lower air dam and some zip ties is no big deal. Want to avoid cutting metal. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I think they offer a great deal, still amazed how cheap they are for a 2.7” shock.   Unless you need adjustability, bigger lift, or are competitive desert racing these seem to be a great option.   I hit potholes and speedbumps for fun now just to feel them soak it all up.   No bounce, no squat.

Posted
4 hours ago, 99bluebird said:

I think they offer a great deal, still amazed how cheap they are for a 2.7” shock.   Unless you need adjustability, bigger lift, or are competitive desert racing these seem to be a great option.   I hit potholes and speedbumps for fun now just to feel them soak it all up.   No bounce, no squat.

What do you have in the rear? 

 

I really want the 6112's but it's hard to justify 3x the price. 

Posted

Anyone who installed these come from 5100 up front? If so, how do they compare in feel and response? Still debating if I should stick with 5100 or shovel out the extra to get the 6112's. 

 

I currently have 21k on my NHT shocks and they are very bobble head and bouncy feeling. 

Posted
23 hours ago, madsen203 said:

Anyone who installed these come from 5100 up front? If so, how do they compare in feel and response? Still debating if I should stick with 5100 or shovel out the extra to get the 6112's. 

 

I currently have 21k on my NHT shocks and they are very bobble head and bouncy feeling. 

+1 on this question. My 14' had the 5100's on the 3rd setting (loved em) and they lasted 100K+ miles before I replaced em....

Now I don't know if I should stick with a proven product or fork over the extra cash for the 6112's on my new 18 (#memorialdaysavings) :)

Posted

I think 6112's would benefit the true Off-Roader for the extra cost. Unless you just want the premium Coil-Over look.

Sounds like there is not a night and day between the two daily driving on the street.

Maybe other reports in the future will shed some more light on major differences.

Posted
12 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

I think 6112's would benefit the true Off-Roader for the extra cost. Unless you just want the premium Coil-Over look.

Sounds like there is not a night and day between the two daily driving on the street.

Maybe other reports in the future will shed some more light on major differences.

I scanned some Toyota forums about the difference as they have more folks modding the trucks. Everyone speaks highly of the 6112 in comparison to the 5100’s. I’m hard pressed to spend the extra $400. Cheap AF, I know. 

Posted

I would highly suspect that the Toyota boys are venturing more Off-Road with their 6112 setups vs 5100s.

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

I finally was able to install the 6112s on highest setting up front and 5160s along with a slightly taller rear block yesterday. I haven’t had much time to drive it, only maybe 10 miles but it’s definitely an improvement over stock. Still rides like a truck, I have E load range BFG K02s at 50psi, but recovers quicker after bumps and the hits on bigger small bumps don’t seem as harsh. I haven’t had a chance to go off road or hit any speed bumps where I’m hoping the new shocks will shine.

 

BTW, the wheels/tires don’t seem to look as small in person as they do in the pic. These tires have about 42k miles on them and I’ll likely go a little bigger with the next set.

 

Truck has nearly 43k miles and the stock NHT package shocks were still functional.

 

2BD783DC-5F2C-4B10-9E9B-6164D27611B5.jpeg

Edited by Red_5
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...