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Posted
22 minutes ago, Rock1500 said:

Would this fit inside an 18 inch rims?

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Factory wheels on a 2019 and 2020 start at 18" so yes as long as the wheel has enough spacing to fit the wider caliper they will fit. 

Posted
Factory wheels on a 2019 and 2020 start at 18" so yes as long as the wheel has enough spacing to fit the wider caliper they will fit. 
Then they might for for me. Would I need a special bracket to install them and would have to get matching brakes for the rear?

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Posted
22 minutes ago, Rock1500 said:

Then they might for for me. Would I need a special bracket to install them and would have to get matching brakes for the rear?

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No special brackets needed just some washers to center the calipers on the rotors. From what I've seen it doesn't look like there was much if any improvements made to the rears so no changes needed there. 

  • Like 2
Posted
No special brackets needed just some washers to center the calipers on the rotors. From what I've seen it doesn't look like there was much if any improvements made to the rears so no changes needed there. 
I might be interested if everything goes right tomorrow for me....

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I got the new brakes installed last weekend. Everything went as expected making it a pretty easy swap. My stock wheels would not have cleared if I didn't have the spacers. They were on my truck when I bought it and don't seem to be hurting anything so I've just left them. They do seem to have better stopping power than the old setup and the pad install on this type of caliper is super easy. The pedal feel is a little better, but not as firm as I hoped it would get to. I could probably use a better flush of the old fluid though. I may try to do that later on. I have a Motive pressure bleeder, but even using that the fluid was very slow to get pushed through the lines. 

 

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Posted
I got the new brakes installed last weekend. Everything went as expected making it a pretty easy swap. My stock wheels would not have cleared if I didn't have the spacers. They were on my truck when I bought it and don't seem to be hurting anything so I've just left them. They do seem to have better stopping power than the old setup and the pad install on this type of caliper is super easy. The pedal feel is a little better, but not as firm as I hoped it would get to. I could probably use a better flush of the old fluid though. I may try to do that later on. I have a Motive pressure bleeder, but even using that the fluid was very slow to get pushed through the lines. 
 
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List of parts needed and their numbers please! This is on my list of wants!


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Posted (edited)

Here is what I ordered from Rock Auto and I got some Stop Tech SS brake lines number 950.66002 from ebay. 

The brake lines aren't really needed, but I figured since I was in there I may as well upgrade those too. The price of the brake pads was stupid, but they also came with a new pad life sensor which I didn't need. I'd bet you will be able to find pads cheaper before too long. 

 

image.png.daa1771477674fed367256eaf61b88b7.png

Edited by truckmann
Posted
Here is what I ordered from Rock Auto and I got some Stop Tech SS brake lines number 950.66002 from ebay. 
The brake lines aren't really needed, but I figured since I was in there I may as well upgrade those too. The price of the brake pads was stupid, but they also came with a new pad life sensor which I didn't need. I'd bet you will be able to find pads cheaper before too long. 
 
image.png.daa1771477674fed367256eaf61b88b7.png


Are the rotor bolt and splash shield able to be reused?

What size washers and quantity are needed for each caliper?


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Posted (edited)

I reused the stock bolts and never even took the splash shield off. I'm not sure what size the washers are. I bought a bunch of different sizes from the hardware store but those all ended up being bigger OD washers than I wanted so I dug through my mess of extra nuts and bolts and found some that fit better. You only need 4 of them, 2 for each caliper. 

 

 

Edited by truckmann
  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/18/2020 at 7:14 PM, flyingfool said:

the biggest issue on this truck is the brakes system's proportioning valve 70/30 or 80/20 which is typical GM tuning,  so much brake power is not being utilized , by over driving the front rotors and under utilizing the rears. you guys are wasting money on giant brake kits, twhen the factory system is perfect, its just out of tune

 

you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve  internal components, for $20 in parts and have the same if not better performance than this oversize monster brake kit for $1000

Rofl

 

where do you think traction is under heavy braking, especially with something with a high center of gravity, especially something with a heavy forward weight bias.

 

The worst kind of advice is the kind that sounds like it’s from somebody that knows what they are talking about but they really don’t.

 

 

Posted
23 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

Rofl

 

where do you think traction is under heavy braking, especially with something with a high center of gravity, especially something with a heavy forward weight bias.

 

The worst kind of advice is the kind that sounds like it’s from somebody that knows what they are talking about but they really don’t.

 

 

i know what i'm talking about because i've modified many proportioning valves on the B-bodies and G-body cars.  you act as if you actually know something but it sounds as if your critique is that of one'self not of me brother . 

Posted
2 hours ago, flyingfool said:

i know what i'm talking about because i've modified many proportioning valves on the B-bodies and G-body cars.  you act as if you actually know something but it sounds as if your critique is that of one'self not of me brother . 

Have you done it on a vehicle newer than 20 years old?  Braking systems have only changed a bunch since then, particularly with abs systems.

 

For example, with my '04 Sierra, the proportioning valve is integrated into the abs controller (2 lines in from the master cylinder, 3 lines out [2 to front, one to rear]).

I suppose I could just dremel out a random passage and hope for the best...

 

How about posting up a build thread with pics about how you changed the proportioning valve on your '16 Silverado?  Just for giggles, include how you figured out the starting and ending braking proportions.

Posted
3 hours ago, flyingfool said:

i know what i'm talking about because i've modified many proportioning valves on the B-bodies and G-body cars.  you act as if you actually know something but it sounds as if your critique is that of one'self not of me brother . 

Yeah cars!!!!

 

Do you have any idea how much the physics of braking can change from raising the center of gravity?

 

An unloaded truck during full braking is likely carrying 90% of it’s weight on the front axle.

 

It’s like the inverse of launching a dodge demon with slicks and skinnies

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 6/12/2019 at 1:49 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

Yes and no. 4 piston calipers are more then twice the clamping force. And the caliper is a better material. Also the rotor is better if it is larger for heat distribution and surface space but it is also more mass to move. Pros and cons of everything. Also I would look more at brake feel under lower line pressure and fade under heavy use.
GM says 22 and bigger wheel need performance brake kit. And my 24" and power level could use wilwood huge brake kit.
If you read up on this drilled is more of a looks then performance. Big race kits are slotted or nothing. Even wilwood and bear have wrote articles on this.
I want the wilwood but if I switch to smaller wheels I would rather have this, then there is the rear issue. Can't fit 15" with slicks out back with even stock brakes. So 1320 makes a rotor and single or dual caliper kit. Some say down grade but it is more surface and clamping force.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Ummmm The clamping force is not doubled... Theoretically... the Force of a 2 piston floating caliper and a 4 piston fixed caliper are the same as long as the piston area of the floating caliper is the same as the piston area of 2 of the pistons on one side of the fixed caliper.... HOWEVER:

1) The fixed caliper is generally significantly stiffer than the floating and therefore does not deflect and consume fluid (mushy long pedal) like a floating

2) Running clearances can be tighter and therefore improves initial stroke

3) A fixed caliper has no frictional losses in the pins (because it has none) and fewer in the abutments

 

So A fixed caliper may have higher clamp loads... but only by a small amount. The BIG difference is in the caliper's overall stiffness.

Also.. If the total piston area on one side of fixed caliper is more than the total piston area of the 2014-2018 floating caliper then there will be higher clamp load per PSI of pressure

If the "effective radius" (size of the lever arm of the brake) is even a little bit bigger... then It can make a considerable difference.

Also.. I believe that the friction that goes into that caliper OEM is rated as "HH" this is VERY high friction level for a Pass Car/LT friction material...

 

 

Posted
On 6/13/2019 at 12:07 AM, flyingfool said:

unfortunatly big brakes dont stop better, they are just more heat and fade resistant. stock is great. the smaller lighter rotors and calipers have better handling that these porky bits.. where did you source these from an ISUZU NPR 4500 HD?

 

These trucks need better brake bias in the propotioning valves, and more aggressive brake pad compounds...   unless your pulling a 14,000lbs boat or trailer this is a waste of money and time IMO

There haven't been prop valves in modern vehicles in a long long time (since virtually the dawn of ABS in the 80's for some).. They all have EBD.. Electronic Brake Distribution. The ABS system will cap the rear pressure when it detects impending wheel slip... as deceleration is increased it will drop the rear pressure and then rebuild it.. I know.. I am a brake systems engineer with 30+ years. EBD is WAY WAY WAY better and safer than prop valves on so many levels. I know exactly where those calipers come from but I ain't saying and it ain't no Isuzu :)

  • Like 2

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    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  
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