Jump to content

Unstable over bumps

derek01f
 Share

Recommended Posts

rmkmb Enthusiast

rmkmb

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, econometrics said:

You're not alone, fellow Rancho victim. Lol

Hahaha,

good one .I guess I am too.

It feels like the shocks are too stiff and don't have time to dampen.

 

Interesting to see if a shock swap will help this situation

 

  • Like 1
  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Gangly
Gangly

Its a truck guys, they are designed to work meaning they are engineered to perform tasks associated with hauling loads in the bed, trailer, etc.  By default, they will perform best with a little weigh

newdude
newdude

Put 200lbs in the bed and re-test.  If you think a 1500 does it, try a 2500HD empty over the same road. 

Rob41
Rob41

It's not just the Z71 and max tow packages.  I have the RST non-Z71 and like previous pick-ups it too fishtails on washboard roads.  Unfortunately this is the worst I've ever seen and I buy a new chev

Posted Images

Stevejfy Enthusiast

Stevejfy

Posted
Posted

My truck also bounces excessively.  So much so  that one time on I-70 near Denver I had to correct the sideways bounce of the truck.  I can go to the rear bumper and bounce it up and down and when I release my hands from the bumper the truck will bounce 3+ times.  I heard many years ago that if over 1 1/2 times you need new shocks.   When i apply the brakes to a hard stop at 10 mph the truck bounces several times.   I feel it is unsafe.  My truck has 4000 miles on it, if it had 60000 I'd be replacing the shocks with heavy duty shocks.  I have an appointment next week with a local dealer but have little faith that anything will come of it.  

 

derek01f Enthusiast

derek01f

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 hours ago, Stevejfy said:

My truck also bounces excessively.  So much so  that one time on I-70 near Denver I had to correct the sideways bounce of the truck.  I can go to the rear bumper and bounce it up and down and when I release my hands from the bumper the truck will bounce 3+ times.  I heard many years ago that if over 1 1/2 times you need new shocks.   When i apply the brakes to a hard stop at 10 mph the truck bounces several times.   I feel it is unsafe.  My truck has 4000 miles on it, if it had 60000 I'd be replacing the shocks with heavy duty shocks.  I have an appointment next week with a local dealer but have little faith that anything will come of it.  

 

Yep, that's how I described it to my wife and the guy at the dealership, feels like the shocks are bad, as it feels like an old '84 Buick Regal bouncing down the road at times.

Wheelguy Enthusiast

Wheelguy

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 7/30/2019 at 11:05 PM, econometrics said:

Mostly, this is just the result of trucks getting lighter, but able to carry more payload. Stiff rear ends when empty. 

I agree 100%.

 

I wonder how bad the carbon fiber beds are going to be with this?  My 2019 Denali isn't the greatest (22" wheels/ stock 50 aspect ratio tires) and the loaner I'm currently driving (2019 2.7L SLE 4X4 without Multipro tailgate, smaller wheels & larger aspect ratio tires) is just about as bad.  Can't believe how much lighter the normal tailgate is compared to the Multipro.

Edited by Wheelguy
ILSilverado Enthusiast

ILSilverado

Posted
Posted

Mine is excessively bouncy I was going to change out the shocks. I have a 2019  regular Silverado with 4 WD.

  • 8 months later...
Inside Man New Member

Inside Man

Posted
Posted (edited)

Bumping the thread, as I just bought a 2020 Trail Boss and I get the same sway but less now that I installed 295/70/18 and new wheels. My son just bought a RWD 2020 Silverado RST and it also sways? Anyone find out what's the issue?

E1BDE80A-58B5-488B-9C15-1A72C877C1D7_1_105_c.jpeg

Edited by Inside Man
added photo
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its a truck guys, they are designed to work meaning they are engineered to perform tasks associated with hauling loads in the bed, trailer, etc.  By default, they will perform best with a little weight in the back.  Its very hard to design an unloaded truck to handle like a car over rough roads, but then be stiff enough to support a bed loaded with a couple thousand lbs of weight.  Add in the fact that most trucks come with wheels ranging from 17 inches up to 22 inches, and there is no way to design a shock or spring system to accommodate the variables in suspension stresses based on the multitude of available sidewall dimensions (flex).  There's gotta be some understanding of what your purchasing and the intent of design for what your purchasing.  A truck riding on an 18 inch wheel is going to sway and roll significantly more than a truck riding on a equivalent diameter tire but utilizing a 20" wheel.  If you don't grasp the concept of what a truck is ultimately designed for, or don't like the "quirks" associated with making a vehicle capable of its intended purpose, then you might be better served by purchasing a Tahoe or Yukon and you will be much happier.

Edited by Gangly
Edit
  • Like 4
Pinnacle Enthusiast

Pinnacle

Posted
Posted

Yup, Ive test drivin 6 and every single one of these trucks regardless if its GMC or Chevy feels "loose" at highway speeds to the point where it makes you feel uncomfortable, its got nothing to do with shocks but the design of the truck. 

Thomcat Senior Enthusiast

Thomcat

Posted
Posted

I have an RST with optional 22" wheels and Bridgestone Alenzas with stock shocks and springs. Rear axle would hop on bumps, especially hard acceleration from a stop into a turn and had a vibration at 55-60. Had to be the lighter bed because 100 lbs over each wheel in the bed calmed it right down.

 

Once the standard shocks wore in and tires were seated at about 1000 miles took it for a road force balance at the dealer. It cured almost all of the problem the balance without the added weights disappearing by 4K miles. Now at the point where the ride is at least as good if not better than my '16 Z71 18's with more aggressive Wranglers, and stability and handling of the T1 with the 22's even at 70 mph is much much better than was my K2..

ILSilverado Enthusiast

ILSilverado

Posted
Posted
On 7/30/2019 at 11:54 PM, Wiggums said:

 

Exactly the same situation I was in. That is a liability issue, I was more angry over the fact I could have killed the guy walking on the side of the road. GM fanboys got all over me on this, questioning my experience, etc. "My Ford did the same" I've driven 4x4's and none were this bad. I was going about 70 km/h, maybe 80 km/h when it happened. That is why my next car isn't going to be a Chevrolet unless they address this.

Having owned both a 2019 new version and now a 2020 I can confirm they fixed this issue on the 20s

Wiggums Senior Enthusiast

Wiggums

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, ILSilverado said:

Having owned both a 2019 new version and now a 2020 I can confirm they fixed this issue on the 20s

Were both RST 4x4s with twin tube shocks?

ILSilverado Enthusiast

ILSilverado

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, Wiggums said:

Were both RST 4x4s with twin tube shocks?

 

21 hours ago, Wiggums said:

Were both RST 4x4s with twin tube shocks?

I think its more spring related .

Wiggums Senior Enthusiast

Wiggums

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, ILSilverado said:

 

I think its more spring related .

RST owners were the only ones who had that issue, not the others. That was why I asked.

 

Mine was so bad it went sideways and I wasn't accelerating or braking. The back end had no traction and was wildly flailing back and forth.

 

My first incident was on a regular road that was caked in mud and I nearly hit a guy on the sidewalk. That was about a year ago when we had the floods and mud came from the nearby hills.

 

I'd have to point out that kind of ripple was not common, it has to be at the right rhythm for that to happen.

 

I drive on the dirt road to the ranch every day and I have run into that issue quite a few times. The Cheyenne RST is not a truck I'd want to be driving on the dirt road even at 30 mph (if it is straight, smooth, with excellent visibility). I have driven all the other 4x4's much faster than that and all handled better. I don't even drive it anymore, it has been sitting there for the past six months.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gilkey96
    Newest Member
    Gilkey96
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 873 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...