Tonneau cover for CarbonPro??

[cltsig]

29 minutes ago, Commander769 said:

I installed my GM tri fold, think I may have commented back on it in this thread. Pretty easy, just have to drill through the upper plastic pieces along the edge, not the bed. They give you a little tool to help line it up. I think I rated it a 2-3 beer job.

Awesome, thanks man!  I think the dealer wanted $150 or so to do it which seemed a bit steep.  Going to order now with 20% off.

[BassNBrew]

1 hour ago, Commander769 said:

I installed my GM tri fold, think I may have commented back on it in this thread. Pretty easy, just have to drill through the upper plastic pieces along the edge, not the bed. They give you a little tool to help line it up. I think I rated it a 2-3 beer job.

Never had a hard tri-fold. Can you take the GM system off if you need the whole bed without too much difficulty?

[HW3]

Anyone try this Lomax fix? Also could this be used for MX4 Bakflip.

 

 

[Truckasaurus]

On 7/23/2020 at 8:22 AM, BassNBrew said:

Never had a hard tri-fold. Can you take the GM system off if you need the whole bed without too much difficulty?

Easy.  Loosen two nuts and two snap hooks.   Hard part is lifting off the whole thing by yourself... easy if you have another set of hands.

[Truckasaurus]

10 hours ago, HW3 said:

Anyone try this Lomax fix? Also could this be used for MX4 Bakflip.

 

 

Good video showing the process, but that's not a Lomax "fix," that's the factory GM solution for attaching the factory hard and soft folding tonneau covers.  Use the alignment tool to drill the holes, insert J-Nuts into the factory holes in the bedside.  Only difference is that with the GM tri-folding cover, you attach a single rail to the six holes on each side as opposed to a bracket to each of the six holes, but the process of creating threaded holes is the same. 

[Truckasaurus]

On 7/16/2020 at 2:35 PM, j7chico said:

I just received the weathertech cover mentioned in this thread.   I thought this was installed without any modifications but the installation instructions are telling me to drill holes in the bed.  Did I misunderstand?

Drill holes in the bed itself, or just the plastic cap on top of the bedside rails?  The factory solution requires drilling through the bed cap (an inexpensive replacement part if you're concerned)... the holes are so you can pass screws through to the J-nuts that slide into the slots in the carbon bed that are hidden by the bed cap.

[HW3]

Where do you get the alignment tool? Link? 

[Truckasaurus]

3 minutes ago, HW3 said:

Where do you get the alignment tool? Link? 

It is included in the installation kit that comes with the tonneau.

 

I am told that these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3MUY9K) are the correct J-nuts if you're trying to make your own solution.  You'll need five for each side (the sixth threaded hole is already in place close to the tailgate.  The "holes" you drill are in the plastic bed cap to allow screws to pass through to these threaded holes that are hidden behind the bed cap.

Edited August 17, 2020 by Truckasaurus
added amazon link.

[18Ultimate]

Just bought a new Denali carbon pro. I read thru all the comments and it sounds like the only covers available without bed modifications is the gm hard cover, LoMax and weather techs? Looking for thoughts on which one to go with or if there is another option that I’m missing. Thanks in advance. 

[cltsig]

I just installed the GM one. So far so good. Decent cover. Seems to keep the bed dry. No complaints. 

[L87Powered]

I believe the Weathertech requires modification. I looked into getting.

[Truckasaurus]

4 hours ago, L87Powered said:

I believe the Weathertech requires modification. I looked into getting.

Someone in this thread makes pretty spiffy machined aluminum clamps that work with some of the covers for a “no-drill” install.  But all of the factory options and most aftermarket sellers require you to drill five 1/4” holes through each plastic bed rail cap to access the factory holes that are hidden behind.  While technically not a “no drill” solution, plastic bed caps are replaceable wear items and are probably cheaper to replace than buying the aforementioned machined aluminum clamps.   I installed the factory hard cover (see my post above that includes a pdf copy of the install manual for full details) and found it to be a pretty simple operation.   Loosen two nuts and two spring clips and the whole thing lifts off for full access.  What I like about the factory hard cover is that it does not interfere with the front of the bed, so by lifting off the cover, I can put my dirt bikes in and use the built in wheel chocks without interference. 

Edited August 30, 2020 by Truckasaurus

[hammick]

I just bought the GM hard rolling cover for my AT4 carbon pro.  Parts guy said once I open the hardware bag I cannot return it so I want to make absolutely sure how to install this.  I've read this entire thread and have a few questions.  I ordered the bag of 25 speed nuts from Amazon and I'll have them tomorrow.  Dealer gave me the bed cap drill guide that they used on the GM hard folding cover for the carbon pro.  Drilling the 10 holes in the caps looks easy.

 

I understand the speed nuts and how to install them.  When I install the rails can I use just the outside portion of the clamp with some M6 1.25" bolts?  It looks to me that is how the Lomax installs.  Or do I need to notch the rails like the super clean install posted a few pages back?  Or should I just buck up for Matt's custom brackets even though I don't have a clue how those work.

 

I refuse to drill holes in my carbon bed.

 

Thanks for any advice.

[hammick]

On 8/16/2020 at 8:29 AM, HW3 said:

Anyone try this Lomax fix? Also could this be used for MX4 Bakflip.

 

 

I don't think so.  Today I bought the Rev had rolling that is made by BAK.  The rail attachment point is too wide and the bolt would be in the way.  That's why guys are drilling and notching holes in the rail.  I'm going to look hard at Matt's custom brackets

[hammick]

I installed the REV hard folding cover today on my AT4 Carbon Pro.  Got it from my dealer at cost as part of my purchase deal.  It fits great.  I read all 12 pages of this thread several times and I wasn't exactly sure the best way to install.  So I'll tell you how I did it.  You cannot use the clamps that come with the cover unless you use a hole saw in your Carbon Pro bed.  I didn't want to do that.  So you either need to cut notches in you rails or drill holes.  I chose to drill holes.  Hardest part is figuring out where to drill.  Here are the steps that worked for me to get a clean and tight install.  It fits better than previous REV folding cover's I've installed on 3/4 ton Chevy trucks I've owned.  I attribute this to a tighter fit of the rails since they are bolted in without clamps.

 

1.  Buy this 25 pack of speed nuts from Amazon (you will use 10 of them)

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C3MUY9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

2.  Go to a decent hardware store and buy M6 1.0 thread flanged bolts in 1.25" length (you need 12).

 

3.  Grab some decent sized washers as well.  You won't need them if you measure and drill perfectly but that's unlikely.

 

4.  For the speed nut install and rail cap drilling, follow the instructions for the GM hard folding cover that fits the Carbon Pro (the rear most holes have a nut welded on from the factory so no speed nut needed on those two)

 

5.  You will need a drill guide for the 12 holes in the top cap.  My dealer gave me on that came in the hard folding cover kit for the Carbon Pro.  Some guys have make their own.  You could probably eyeball and drill bigger holes.  The rails will cover them anyway.

 

6.  For measuring the rails for drilling you will need a helper.  My wife sat in the bed with a sharp pencil and a ruler and marked on the rails where to drill while I help the rails tight in place.  She then marked on the back of the rail the best she could where I should drill.

 

7.  We started with the rear most hole that has the nut in place from the factory.  I drill a small hole first and then we would put the rail back up and use a flashlight to see how it lines up.  I would finish with a 9/32" bit.  If the hole doesn't line up you will need to adjust the hole size (this is where the washers come in handy)

 

8.  After you have drill all six holes in the rail put it on and have your helper hold it tight while you start hand threading the bolts (and washers if needed).  An open end ratcheting wrench comes in very handy here.  My bolts were 10mm.  Yours might be different.  Have your helper push down on the top of the rail in the area of the bolt when you do you final tighten.  Get all six bolts hand threaded before you start tightening.

 

9.  Once you have the rails installed follow the rest of the instructions that came with you cover to install and adjust the cover.  You will not use any of the clamps that came with you cover.  If I did this again I would install the adhesive gasket first and take it completely across so the gasket is under the front of the rails as well.  We had to cut small pieces to go under the front of the rails.  I'm guessing will have to do some black silicone from the inside to make it more waterproof.

 

If you are impatient like me and try to do this by yourself or when you are tired you could have a shi_ show on your hands.  Take you time and make sure you measurements are good before you drill.

 

 

Edited September 6, 2020 by hammick