Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I sprayed out the hole with some compressed air and wiped out with a Q-tip, then tried to thread the bolt again.  It started out a little better and threaded in farther, but it still wasn't right.  This time the bolt got stuck in the nut and trying to back it out just spins the nut in the carbon fiber.  I had to take off the tail light to get vice grips onto the back side of the nut to hold it so I could back the bolt out.  The bolt eventually just broke off inside the nut, thankfully the bolt doesn't stick out.  I'm not sure it matters.  There are 6 bolts on the drivers side and now 5 on the passenger side which I think will be enough to hold a cover in place.  I'm probably going to get a Bak Flip MX4.

Posted

I installed the LIteRider from Access tonneau covers.  US made and I've installed one version or another on 4 trucks I've had.  Easy installation though time consuming.  There is drilling involved on the CarbonPro, but with their guide piece its fairly easy.  Free shipping and I lost one of the U-Nuts.  Called them and Access sent me a bag full of new installation parts.  

Posted
On 10/6/2020 at 3:18 PM, Heinzy said:

Would like to see Peragon and some of the other (non-trifold) companies offer some options. With the pre-drilled holes on the carbon pro box, it would seem like a minimal (installation) engineering effort if the cover fits the same.

I even tried to pay Retrax on T&M to engineer a fix, but that failed..lol I then tried to get them to just tell me if the bolts and clamps were the old issue or was anything else. They confirmed it was just the clamps.  

 

So I’m with you on this, seems so basic and easy to engineer. 

 

I ended up with a Lomax and eventually will fit the Retrax myself next year as I want the integrated bike rack rails into the cover that they have. 

Posted

Hey everyone,

 

so after reading through this entire post it seems as though the GMC hardcover or the weathertech hardcover ones are the easiest trifold info to install. My question is, has anyone else installed one that flips all the way back to the rear windshield? I saw truckasaurs’ post regarding the bakflip and the stoop YouTube video and I’m interested in this route but would like more validation if this is a good route to go. Want to utilize all of the bed so I don’t need to remove to cover every time I throw the wheeler in the back. Thanks for any and all input!

 

Mark

Posted (edited)

The Weathertech is made by Access.  They also make the Lomax Stance which is new and sounds like it is what you are looking for.  They all come with kits for the CarbonPro so no need to drill.  I just ordered a roll up directly from Access today, it shipped same day and looks like I should have it on Wed. 

https://www.agricover.com/lomax-stance-hard-cover/

 

 

Edited by Jim Baron
Posted

I just recently purchased the Lomax cover and installed the rails.   It was a little rough at first but once you get the hang of it it’s quick.  I then took the cover and laid it on the rails to install, then noticed the edges on both sides of the cover were missing paint in many places.   I also noticed the seals were not as good as I had imagined considering it’s a 1k cover.  Some of the seals were coming apart from the aluminum.  
 

 I am in the process of returning, I think I will be going with a Bak and making it fit as others have done.  I was very disappointed with the quality of the lomax, maybe I received one that was returned? Idk but I am pretty uspet with the time that has been wasted.  
 

      

16DDA239-D875-443D-82D4-0B985F3E486F.jpeg

D9D39A83-E82D-4ED6-A083-4F57C07B8896.jpeg

Posted

My LOMAX looked nothing like that! That damage is ridiculous and I too would have had it back to them same day. I still have had no issues at all with the LOMAX and even had it wrapped to match my truck with a large AT4 wrapped on the LOMAX cover as well. Something about plain black just gets at me.

Posted

Here ya go... White is a shade off depending on the light but I dig it. So much better than just a black top like everyone else has. I got the matte black Lomax which is cheaper knowing I was going to wrap it. Spent $275 on the wrap.

Top 1.jpg

Top 2.jpg

Posted

Looks great... thinking about getting the matte top and doing a carbon fiber wrap, but like the way yours turned out. Will need to see what I can find from a company in my area.

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I decided to go with the GMC soft tri-fold tonneau cover specifically for CarbonPro bed. Any feedback on this cover is appreciated. I am having it put on Fri. 

Posted
1 hour ago, L87Powered said:

I decided to go with the GMC soft tri-fold tonneau cover specifically for CarbonPro bed. Any feedback on this cover is appreciated. I am having it put on Fri. 

I have it and installed myself, wasn't too bad. It leaks a bit, but overall I've been happy with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...