Jump to content

Tonneau cover for CarbonPro??

Joshua Pessin
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 235
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

TomCarbonPro
TomCarbonPro

Have installed a BakFlip MX4 on my GMC CarbonPro AT4.  Awesome vehicle.  Wanted a folding hard tonneau cover that exposed most/all of the bed.  This thread helped get me started.  From what I can tell

Mountain boy
Mountain boy

Never even seen a carbon pro thought it was a myth.

LDSierraAT4
LDSierraAT4

I was just informed that GM does have a tonneau cover for the CarbonPro Edition.   84791287 - Tonneau Covers, Short Bed Hard Tri-Fold Tonneau Cover for AT4 CarbonPro

Posted Images

hammick Enthusiast

hammick

Posted
Posted

Forgot to mention the straps.  They are attached to two of the clamps.  Remove them and attach them to one of the Torx screws on the front of the bed.

Tyler1199 Enthusiast

Tyler1199

Posted
Posted

Any tonneau cover that fits this truck will fit the carbon pro with some mods. I got the backflip x4 rolling cover and went to Lowe’s got some hardware and she’s on solid. 

  • 2 weeks later...
ShadyOakBrewer Enthusiast

ShadyOakBrewer

Posted
Posted

I installed a BAK Revolver X4 yesterday using the J-Nuts and bolts from Amazon Spec'd by TomCarbonPro using a similar method to that posted by hammick. I would like to thank them for their posts which made my job much easier.

 

Here is how I did it:

 

1. Drilled 1/4" holes in the plastic bed-rail cap at the location of the 6 underlying round holes (aft hole is prethreaded).

2. Marked the fore-aft location of each hole on the bottom edge of the bed-rail cap with a white marker.

3. Set the cover side-rail on the bed rail in the location spec'd by BAK (all the way forward) and marked the fore-aft location of each of the 6 holes with a white marker on the bottom edge of the side-rail.

4. Measured the up-down location of the holes with respect to the bottom edge of the rail cap (which extends below the bottom edge of the side-rail by 4mm). Center of each hole is 12mm up from the bottom edge of the plastic bed-rail cap, so the center of each hole is therefore 8mm up from the bottom edge of the side-rail.

5. Drilled 6 1/4" holes in each of the cover side-rails 8mm up from the bottom edge.

6. Installed 10 J-nuts in the 5 forward holes in each side of the bed, the aft hole on each side is prethreaded.

7. Set the side-rails on the bed rails and installed the 6mm bolts, loosely at first until all were installed then tightened them all. Each bolt also has its own washer. The front bolt was the hardest to get to, so (on the second side) I installed this bolt first.

8. Rolled the cover onto the side-rails, adjusted fore and aft til aligned, bolted cover into place.

 

Notes:

1. BAK sends out adhesive pads to shim the side-rail for different contour bed rails. I considered the CarbonPro bed-rails as "straight" and didn't use these shims.

2. The clamp on the left side-rail didn't close tightly against the "teeth" that hold the cover closed/locked. I used a small piece of one of the adhesive shims to shim up the button that pushes the clamp down by the latch so the clamp rotates further closed. This worked well but I'll manufacture a more rigid/permanent solution when I get a chance.

3. I'll post photos later today or tomorrow.

 

I should also note that I am a new member, first-time poster, and recent bedcover forum lurker. I recently moved up from a '16 Yukon XL to a '20 AT4 CarbonPro and couldn't be happier.

jeffwhip New Member

jeffwhip

Posted
Posted

I've read all the pages, and was wondering if anyone had installed the tonneau cover by Truck Covers USA?

WACKEM_G Enthusiast

WACKEM_G

Posted
Posted

I emailed bak they said something should be out after new year! An I jus don’t like the Gm one! Holding out for tht! Let’s see! I think with some time we will see more options for the carbonpro! Fingers crossed! [emoji1696]contacted in shop near me they said they could get a leer on there but had to drill into the bed! Not feeling tht at all!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
IwannaFish Enthusiast

IwannaFish

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just bought my Carbon Pro AT4 and read all through this thread to find a hard tri-fold. After it all I ended up with LOMAX.

 https://www.agricover.com/hard-tonneau-covers/ 

USA made for the Carbon Pro, both tailgate versions for some reason, free shipping and I had it installed in about 30 mins. I got the matte black one and it actually matched the bed rails pretty nicely. Couple of vids online for the Carbon Pro install as well. 

 Just stupid simple but the top is heavy, thinking I remember seeing 78lbs on the shipping box. Hope this helps! I can throw some pics up if you all want of mine.

Edited by IwannaFish
WACKEM_G Enthusiast

WACKEM_G

Posted
Posted
Just bought my Carbon Pro AT4 and read all through this thread to find a hard tri-fold. After it all I ended up with LOMAX.
 https://www.agricover.com/hard-tonneau-covers/ 
USA made for the Carbon Pro, both tailgate versions for some reason, free shipping and I had it installed in about 30 mins. I got the matte black one and it actually matched the bed rails pretty nicely. Couple of vids online for the Carbon Pro install as well. 
 Just stupid simple but the top is heavy, thinking I remember seeing 78lbs on the shipping box. Hope this helps! I can throw some pics up if you all want of mine.

Notice any leaking? How is the fit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
IwannaFish Enthusiast

IwannaFish

Posted
Posted

Fit is absolutely perfect, even over the tailgate. The aluminum panels are sick sturdy and probably the strongest top I have ever had and I usually trade up trucks every three years and had a different top on each. If this top holds up over time it will be my "go to" brand from here on. I will get some photos up today and you can judge for yourself. Like I said, I chose the matte black one but you may want one of the other colors, I have even seen a few that had their tops vinyl wrapped to match their truck.

Heinzy Enthusiast

Heinzy

Posted
Posted

Would like to see Peragon and some of the other (non-trifold) companies offer some options. With the pre-drilled holes on the carbon pro box, it would seem like a minimal (installation) engineering effort if the cover fits the same.

Flappjakk New Member

Flappjakk

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone.  I have a 2020 Sierra 1500 AT4 Carbon Pro as well and I've been following this thread since I bought the truck back in March 2020.  I purchased the J-Nuts as linked on page 6 of this thread by TomCarbonPro and similar M6-1.0 x 25mm bolts from Amazon.  I sacrificed one of the J-Nuts to use as a guide for drilling through the plastic bed rail cover and everything worked out great.  I did have a problem though with the passenger side pre-threaded hole nearest the tailgate.  The M6-1.0 bolt will not thread in to it.  The driver side worked just fine and threaded in perfectly.  Has anyone had any problems with the passenger side pre-threaded hole?  Is it a different bolt that fits here?

HW3 Enthusiast

HW3

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem. I shinned a light in there and notice a loose thread fiber. Grabbed a set of small needle nose pliers and pulled out the metal shaving. 

Truckasaurus Enthusiast

Truckasaurus

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, Flappjakk said:

Hi everyone.  I have a 2020 Sierra 1500 AT4 Carbon Pro as well and I've been following this thread since I bought the truck back in March 2020.  I purchased the J-Nuts as linked on page 6 of this thread by TomCarbonPro and similar M6-1.0 x 25mm bolts from Amazon.  I sacrificed one of the J-Nuts to use as a guide for drilling through the plastic bed rail cover and everything worked out great.  I did have a problem though with the passenger side pre-threaded hole nearest the tailgate.  The M6-1.0 bolt will not thread in to it.  The driver side worked just fine and threaded in perfectly.  Has anyone had any problems with the passenger side pre-threaded hole?  Is it a different bolt that fits here?

Nah, it's the same bolt.  You might need to chase the threads with a tap if HW3's suggestion above doesn't work.  Probably some paint or something similar on the threads.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 469 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...